Need more power from my VE

[dpuckett]

I've had loads gorss in the mid 20s, and had no problems. I think the mfg ratings are for idiots and lawyers (you'd be surprised how little difference there is between the two). As long as you have the brakes on the truck and trailer to stop it, and drive sanely, keep an eye out for traffic, etc, you should be ok. I was going across CO and KS with hay, so I had some wind resistance issues, but nothing like the portable building delivery crews.



And by golly, this is AMERICA, you can never have "too much" power. If you dont need it, then dont use it.



I wouldnt be surprised if MEby had some loads gross close to 30K- those buildings get heavy quick.



DP

 

[JLEONARD]

this is AMERICA, you can never have "too much" power

Not a bad motto. I like it!

 

[MEby]

JLeonard and dpuckett you are both right. 95% of my loads are wind resistance and not actual load as in lbs, although I do run some heavy loads over 30,000 lb gross weight once in a while. My trailer brakes are awsome, they will stop you like right now.



TTT



anybody have any,? ideas on how to get more power out of my VE? I have the full fuel screw turned all the way in and am not getting any smoke other than right before the turbo spools up. I also have a fuel pin and light weight spring under afc. Is my injection pump weak? From what I hear it should be smoking out the wazoo under these conditions. Right? Stock turbo and 4" straight through exhaust and my egt never more than 1100* WOT. whats wrong with this picture? -matt

 

[CSchafer]

If you have a 24 valve truck with a 12 valve in it you allready have a better truck then dodge built. When you say you have the fuel screw turned all the way do you mean till runaway or what??? The fuel supply pump on the 12 valve (pre p-pump) is not adequit for high amounts of fuel. For 3-400hp a piston lift pump would be a good choice. There are quite a few people on hear running them that can help. EDM'd injectors are prity pricey from all the big names but New era Diesel will cut any thing you want for 700+125 core. If you want somthing like a 370 or pod cut in the right spraypattern and built for our trucks I think It's around $400. PM woodsrat he is the owner and he'll give ya the exact prices. Your truck should smoke quite a bit before spoolup but with out injectors the turbo will get most of it. Let us no the deal with the fuel screw and we can help ya some more.

 

[MEby]

I meant I have literaly turned in the full fuel screw as far as it will turn, and the engine does not runaway on me. revs better than stock. I agree totally that the truck is better now than stock.

 

[CSchafer]

Is the collor still on the screw?

 

[MEby]

Collar? do you mean the tamper cap?

 

[dpuckett]

No, there is a collar on the screw itself that "prevents" :-laf you from turning the screw in any more. Or is your screw bottomed out completely, no more turning? Some guys have reported taking it that far and not running away, but still risky, IMO.



DP

 

[MEby]

I talked to one of my diesel mechanic buddys and he told me about the lock collar which I promtly removed :-laf and messed with the screw till now i'm maxed out again. no side affects like a runaway engine. I did get a heck of a lot more smoke, at least what I could tell with it being dark. Will see in the morning what it looks like. egt spiked a hair over 1250*. One thing I did notice is now the truck won't shut off, whats up with that? It still idling a bit high too. havent gotten it turned down to where it needs to be. is the high idle related to it not shutting off? Oh, I bumped the timing up a hair to. matt

 

[therabbittree]

may be you knocked the fuel shut off wire off?. or it has a bad connection?. . you took the collar off and still turned the screw all the way in?. . crazy I blew up vw that way once, when I told my friend to turn it up. while I did another task on the car. I figured he knew how to do it ... ie 2 or 3 turns in past collar . . well he turned it all the way in! and it ran away wide open as soon as the starter turned over. . melted the ring lands like nothing in a few seconds... . It sucked 0 compression on all 4 cyls after that one . . oh and it was a fresh rebuild with new pistons and rings etc. . yeah some one took it hard. . me. . I never let some one else mess with my stuff without double checking it now. . pheew. .

any how if you can turn your fuel screw ALL the way in without the collar on, I think something is funky

Later

Deo

 

[MEby]

the screw didnt go more than maybe 1 turn after the collar before it hit something.



matt

 

[CSchafer]

I think mine is about 3-4 turns fast the collor untill it started getting harder to turn. Greanleaf says that is the screw trying to make new threads in the pump body so I stoped there. I was also told most pumps wont go that far before running away. Are you sure there isnt a bur left from the collor that is stoping it? Anyway sounds like your pump is putting out some decent amounts of fuel. The not shutting off is consistant with a few guys that have there pumps way up with stock intercooled injectors, it chips's off the plunger on the shut off selonoid. Ptoombs has a plunger he machined down that stoped this problem. But I think bigger injectors would stop that from happining. I found that my throttle pedal assembly does not have enough travel to get idel and full throttle. I had to play with that to get more travel out of it. Good luck

 

[MEby]

so if I buy a new shutoff solenoid the same thing might happen to it? With out maching the plunger? I am also having to adjust the throttle linkage a bit. Got the low Idle adjusted properly. bumping the timing up a bit really helped with the white smoke problem when cold. might try just a hair more advanced still. Best of all the power rocks compared to where I started from.

 

[CSchafer]

correct on the solonoid.

 

[MEby]

PToombs, if your still watching this thread, would you mind telling me how you "machined the plunger on your shut off solenoid" as cshafer stated. thanks



matt

 

[PToombs]

Duuude! I can't give away all my secrets! :-laf

You put the plunger in a lathe, turn the end down with a drill bit until the aluminum shows. Then take a fine file, and just touch the rubber to smooth it off. When you put it in, stretch the spring a little bit to make up the difference. Mine has been in for 3-4k and still works good. Even with the sexy lift pump. The full gas pass is what eats them up. Pastor Bob says it's when you let off the throttle that it does it. I have one here that's all done,(extra) if I could find it.

I took it to SOP, but all the guys who haven't had problems didn't want me to jinx them with it! :-laf

 

[MEby]

Thanks for the tip. I'll see if my buddy with the lathe can help me with that.

 

[therabbittree]

just convert to a cable pull shut off and gut the fuel shut off solinoid... ??

later

Deo

 

[MEby]

just convert to a cable pull shut off and gut the fuel shut off solinoid... ??

later

Deo

I would like to be able to key off the truck if possible. but I might have cable it if the first option gets more involved than I like.

 

[PToombs]

I like to have the truck shut off with the key. I have better things to stick thru the dash than a stupid cable. If I want to pull a cable to shut it off, I'll go drive a dumptruck.