Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) need more power:-)

[MatthewPark]

Ok, I put a #10 plate and wastegate bleed orifice in. Cool. Now it peels out in 4th on wet pavement. I want it to smoke a tire (no rear locker yet on DRY pavement in 4th.



I suppose I could get a lower # plate. I could slide my #10 forward and turn the boost up to compensate. I could do a lot of things. I do have means to control boost without a bleeder if neccesary.



What SHOULD I do? I'm tired of getting worked on the freeway by 14 second Hondas The truck still needs to be reliable, folks No breaking input shafts or anything like that. I don't care about smoke before boost (or while under boost for that matter).

 

[Lsfarm]

EGT's

Hello Matt, what is your current boost and EGT's at WOT??



I'd just move the plate all the way forward and see if this is 'enough'. At least for the next week or two.



Then if you don't mind smoke, a set of 370's will help satisfy your 'need's'.



Where is your timing set, and have you put the KDP to rest??



Hope this helps scratch your itch



Greg L. The Noise Nazi

 

[JoshPeters]

Roughly... . a 10 plate all the way forward... . with 370's should put you in the mid to high 300hp range. diesel tim here put down 393hp and 950torque last fall.



Josh

 

[chrleb1]

Slide your plate all the way forward and get some 370s. Since you have a 94, you will need a 4,000 GSK and some 181 or 191 delivery valves. Personally i would try and find some wicked laser cuts.

 

[MatthewPark]

My boost peaks at about 27psi. I haven't seen EGT's above 1250. My timing is wherever it was when I bought the truck (I assume it's stock, the truck was stock). It does smoke and have a rough time accelerating for about the first minute of operation in the morning if that tells you anything.



I think I should have more boost than this from what I have read, and with more boost obviously the EGTs will come down. I am going to pressure test it to make sure I don't have any boost leaks. After that, I will slide the plate up.



When I go to slide the plate forward, does that mean all of the way forward with the installation guide on (but slid forward as well), or without the installation guide?



Why do I want a 4KGSK? I see so many trucks with 3kGSKs. Why go with the 4K over 3k?



Where are the delivery valves, and what exactly do they do? What do you mean by a "wicked laser cut"?

 

[chrleb1]

The reason I say 4k GSK is because the 160 pumps have a lot heavier weights on the governor than other pumps. A 3K GSK won't give you the full effect. Me just being crazy, put the plate all the way towards the radiator without the installation guide. The more rack travel you have, the more fuel you are going to deliver. Delivery valves, these control how much fuel is allowed into the injector lines. The bigger they are, the more fuel you are able to flow. You probably have 131's. A 180 pump comes with 181s and you can also buy 191's. The larger the # doesn't always mean bigger. 022's are larger the 191's but smaller than laser cuts. You might want to do a search for delivery valve and i'm sure there is a pump diagram that will show you better where they are. Basically they under where the injector lines screw onto the pump. Some people will tell you that delivery valves make 0. 0 horsepower, but from what i have seen, they do make the power. Hope this helps. If you want to know more just ask.

 

[MatthewPark]

So my engine (175HP) has a 160 pump? I thought the number of the pump referred to the power output. Do I need stronger valve springs for the 4K kit?



Also, doesn't the arm that hits the plate lower as it travels further forward? Do I need to adjust the arm so that it hits the bottom of the plate if it doesn't already?

 

[JGheen]

Yes, the pump number usually refers to the stock HP application.

Also, the governor lever is supposed to hit the very bottom of the profile of the plate and then as the RPMs increase it rides up the profile. To check to make sure it is hitting the plate in the correct position, just pull off the AFC housing, pull the fuel shutoff solenoid lever up and give it some throttle(with the engine off, of course). You should be able to look down the pump and see the lever moving forward and hitting the very bottom edge of the plate, about 1/16th" to 1/8th" above the very bottom. If it is not hitting, you may need to adjust the lever through the back of the pump or try moving the plate forward some. That #10 plate is a very "versitle" plate, kind of an all around plate that usually doesn't require a lever adjustment.

You really don't need the heavier valve springs unless you are consistentlt running @ 3000 + RPMs and/or are running an exhaust brake.

 

[chrleb1]

sorry, i thought your truck had a 160 pump on it, thinking automatic rather than manual.