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Need New Turbo?

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Worried about Odometer

1991 1/2 d 250

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Lordsman

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Hello, Looks like I need a new turbo for a 1993 Ram. I have side to side play in the bearing and I think may be loosing boost through intake/exhaust of turbo itself. I don't know if there's a waste gate. If so is it is integral to
the turbo or external? I may be loosing boost there to but don't see an external waste gate. Truck has 292.000 miles and runs good but a bit sluggish.
Truck would not pass emission test. I ran a pressure test from filter hose all the way through turbo and intercooler to the intake of motor. It is loosing pressure. I also would like to change the rubber hose couplings at
intercooler as one is looking pretty bad. It is a stock motor and I don't have a boost gauge.
Where is a good place to find these parts? Thanks, Mike
 
the H1C turbos used on first gen trucks did not have waste gates, but you can do a simple upgrade and get a HX35 off a 2nd gen truck, tare easy to find bolt right on and will spool much quicker. and you can get them from any shop that works on cummins engines or a lot of performance shops should be able to get one
 
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The pressure leak definitely needs to be addressed. How bad is the side to side play? It's normal for a turbo to have some play, as the bearings are hydrodynamic and are self centering when running. It should not have any in/out play.
 
I would say about 1/16" play side to side. I can see it move easily. There is no in and out play. I suspect the intercooler boots need to be replaced as the one near the battery shows cracking. I'll leak test again after they're both replaced.
Yes, I have heard the HX35's bolt right on. I suppose I'd have to plug the waste gate port? Cummins rocky Mountain wants $2000 for HX35 and 1/2 that for the HC1 replacement before the 187.00 core credit.
I appreciate your replies!
 
Why not just rebuild what you have?

AND, what regs are they testing a '93 against and how are they testing? I wouldn't think a worn turbo would cause it to have excessive emissions unless they're testing it under load.
 
About 1/16" side to side play doesn't sound abnormal. As long as there's not evidence of the compressor wheel touching the housing, I think the side to side play would be ok. I'd fix the boost leaks, and go from there. Are you still running the original exhaust turbine housing? A common (and cheap) upgrade is to change the housing size a little smaller to get better spool up.

What max boost are you seeing?

I personally wouldn't pay $2k for an HX35. You could buy a nice performance turbo for that. A good condition HX35 or HE351 can usually be had for the $300 - 500 range.
 
Yes those prices are high. I'll go through everything else before I get another turbo. I don't have a boost gauge which leaves me in the dark :rolleyes:. Where is a good place to tap for boost? I'd like to put EGR/boost gauges on, then I'll know for sure.
Everything on the truck is original, including exhaust turbine housing.
 
there is a pipe thread plug in the side of the head just below the intake horn, all you have to do is pull the plug and put the boost gauge fitting in. Just what I saw on my truck, I would stay away from the HE351 turbo, the exhaust turbine is real small and i had high egt issues on mine, but thats just me.
 
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Ouch at the $2k price.
Rwherley is dead on. The 351 really wouldn't take advantage of a stock truck.
I have an H1C with original 89k miles and rebuilt 25k miles back by a local Cummins (they own Holset past few years) that I would let go dirt cheap.
However, I would diagnose your issue fully before dropping a dime.
After you install a boost gauge, apply 20psi of regulated air to the intake tube mouth.
You'll lose a few psi through the valves, but the boost gauge should read 12-15 psi.
 
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