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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need Radiator, sick of searching

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New transmission!!!!!!!

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Syntorque 1/2 Gal. Cheap

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On a 97, you DO NOT need to remove the cross member above the radiator. it won't really help with anything.





1) Disconnect the batteries (it can be done without doing this, but be very careful if you take don't)



2) Drain the coolant using the petcock on the bottom drivers side (petcock can be a real PITA)



3) Remove upper and lower radiator hoses (don't lay under the lower one, or you will get wet).



4) Disconnect the wires for the w/w reservoir and the hose. . Find something to plug the hose at the bottom, or you will lose all your w/w fluid



5) Remove the w/w reservoir. As was mentioned, there are two buttons on the backside of the w/w reservoir that fit into two holes in the fan shroud. There is also a lock tab at the bottom of the reservoir. Jam a fat screwdriver in between the buttons and the reservoir, then use a small screwdriver top undo the locktab and slide the reservoir up and out



6) Disconnect the wire to the passenger side battery and move it out of the way (and any other wires that may go across the top of the radiator - it may be easier to pull the passengers side head light bulb & it's ground wire to do this)



7) Disconnect the overflow hose and remove radiator reservoir the same way as the w/w reservoir



8) Remove the 4 bolts holding the fan shroud. There are 2 on each side at the outer edges.



9) Move fan shroud back onto the fan,and tie it off somehow so it os not in the way of removing the radiator (if you have the tools to remove the fan, it will be much easier, but it isn't really necessary)



10) Remove the 2 bolts holding the radiator in. They are a the top corners, and they are long suckers. There are none at the bottom, just some projections that fit into hole inthe support frame.



11) CAREFULLY remove the radiator. It may require some working to get it out.



12) installation is the reverse (steps 11 - 1)







If you don't have the correct tool to remove the factory hose clamps, recommend a medium size pair of channel locks to get them loose.



I also DO NOT recommend putting regular hose clamps on in their place. the factory clamps are spring steel, and will keep the hose tight, winter or summer. A regular screw type hose clamp will allow the hose to leak when winter gets here, unless you tighten it up (or unless you tightened it up wayyy to much to begin with).



I have regular screw type clamps on my other vehicles, and when winter gets here, I have small leaks until I tighten the clamps up again. Not on the CTD with the factory clamps still on it.







Another thing I did when I replaced my radiator... I flushed the engine out. Took the garden hose, wrapped an old sock arodun it, and put it inthe lower hose with a clamp. turned it on, and ran the engine that way until I got clear water out of the upper hose (yeah, it was kinda messy), then turn off the engine & remove the garden hose. This way, the block is full of water, and any that drains out when you remove the hose will be replaced with new antifreeze so you will have an easier time getting the correct 50/50 mix.



Yeah, I know it isn't distilled water, but I have never used distilled water in any of my vehicles.
 
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TRCM, thank you for the instructions ... . how the heck did you capture the anti-freez when you disconnected the lower hose - a 5 gal pale?

I have heard horror stories about the petcock. I know my regular machanic got a bath when he replaced my original rad. He said he keep turning it and turning it and then yanked and it poped right out.

I just don't want to get to much anti-freez on the driveway due to my animals.



Thanks again.
 
I turned the petcock slowly, about 3/4 tunr, while pulling out on it with a pair of pliers.



it is a PITA for sure
 
good thing you are replacing the radiator. petcocks never seem to reseal when you open them. usually have to replace the petcocks. at least that is my experience.


mark
 
Here is another question for you guys ... what do you do with the old anti-freez? My Town Dump will not take it (I asked this weekend), and my usual machanic will not take it (if I take your used fluids, I'll have to take everyone's used fluids).



What the heck do you do with the stuff if no one will take it?
 
Here in Ct. we have regional "Hazardous Waste Reclimation Centers", try NAPA or even a salvage yard-we used to call 'em junk yards-or find a friendly dealership and leave 'em a gift on the doorstep..... :-laf Seriously I understand your concerns-they're the same as mine.
 
Our local landfill takes it and recycles it.



However - check with your local farmer - I take all I can get (IF it isn't too diluted) - I want it to be good to at least 10 below). I use it to fill tractor tires - free beats paying for methanol. (and when it takes 50 gallons per tire - that gets expensive).



Dan
 
here locally, they tol dus (they as in the trash people) to pour it down the toilet. they say their water system can handle it.
 
TRCM said:
here locally, they tol dus (they as in the trash people) to pour it down the toilet. they say their water system can handle it.



Well, every one here in my town (and every small town in NH) have a septic tank and leach field. That stuff would go right into my back yard ... bad idea.



There is a guy down the road who sells 50 gal. plastic drums. Maybe I shoud buy one from him. I hate the thought of filling something like that almost entirely up with used anti-freez and water from multiple flushing of the engine. I guess I'll have to purchase a few 5 gal. pales for this job.



I just got a quote for a new NAPA radiator from my machanic. He said don't fix it if it ain't leaking. He said a new rad from NAPA would be over $700 :--)

He has gotta be kidding me ... that plus labor would put replacing my radiator at close to a GRAND ... Fa-geta-boud-it. Looks like I will have to take my chances and try to do this myself sometime this spring (probably be a 20+ hour job for me). :(
 
This is after the fact, but i ordered a new radiator from The Radiator Barn. Exact replacement good warranty and had it from Georgia in 2 days. Shipping and all $281. 00.

This was the original in my 95' . It had rotted out top and bottom. Was leaking a quart in 100 miles.
 
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