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Need Shifter-Mounted Switch & Bracket for Jacobs E-Brake

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We'll be taking delivery of the new truck this week. As part of the deal, the dealer is installing a Jacobs e-brake, but will be leaving the switch loose below the dash as I want to install a shifter-mounted switch for the e-brake.



I thought these switches and brackets were available from NAPA under their part number 7124DK. When I went to my local NAPA on Saturday, however, all I got was the "deer in the headlights" look from the employees. :rolleyes: They couldn't even identify the part number, let alone order one!



Can anyone provide any other sources and/or leads on procuring one of these switches?



Rusty
 
switch

I used the B&D switch. I bought mine from DIS of Texas. I was going to use the NAPA switch, so I located all the right numbers for the switch, and went to NAPA, they had it in stock, the problem was that NAPA's switch and wire loom has 3 wires and NO bracket. I sent NAPA's back and purchased the B&D switch, their loom is ready for the 2 wires you will use for the exhaust brake. Also the B&D switch comes with the mounting bracket, NAPA does not have one. :D
 
Rusty, sorry I didn't see your post sooner. Be advised that your switch may rattle like crazy and drive you nuts. Finding a non-rattling switch is like finding a needle in a haystack. The temporary cure for it is to double a rubber band over the shaft of the switch and slip it over the shift knob. TDR member BPine in California helped me out my disassembling a switch, inserting a new bushing, and drilling it out to a tighter tolerance so the shaft doesn't rattle. I have yet to install the switch, I keep forgetting about it. One of these days I'll get around to it, but for now, the "rubber band method" is working fine.

BTW, my exhaust brake is a BD, and I got the switch and bracket from them. I also have another switch and bracket just like it for my Gear Vendor overdrive. That switch, even though it's made by the same mfr, doesn't rattle. Go figure. Inconsistent quality control at the mfr, I guess.

Andy
 
Rusty

Sorry to be too late with this but might help someone else. The Gear Vendors switch looks identical to the BD and is about 1/2 price.

John
 
Rusty:



I am interested in installing a Jacobs E brake; however, I am concerned about the noise in the truck cab. What has been your experience with the E brake and are the noise levels tolerable? Thanks
 
The gearvendors switch rattles, but the rubber band trick works to quiet it. The rubber band will eventually wear a grove in the plastic bushing. Someday I may make a precision fit bronze bushing to fit it. I made an awesome switch mount from billet aluminum for my brake and use gear vendors for the transmission. If I ever get my software working for my camera I will post a pic.



I have run the pac brake with standard exhaust w/ cat and it is no loud at all, but noticable. With my new poor man's 3" straight pipe the exhaust brake is REAL LOUD, which is ok with me :D



Doug Rees
 
Notice the spare o-ring around the shift knob ready for when the 2sp knob starts to rattle. If you look closely you can see the e-brake knob already has it's rattle eliminator engaged. laf :-laf :-laf



One switch from BD, one from USGear, both identical. Must be a standard off the shelf part.





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I put a B&M shifter handle on with a button on the left side. You have to hold the button in to activate the brake but you will never forget and leave it on.

Be warned though, the shifter threads are metric and the shifter is SAE.
 
Originally posted by kscheffler

I am interested in installing a Jacobs E brake; however, I am concerned about the noise in the truck cab. What has been your experience with the E brake and are the noise levels tolerable? Thanks



The Jacobs e-brake is probably one of the best mods we've done to our truck for our particular towing application. Can you hear it when it's engaged - yep! Is the noise tolerable - yep! In fact, I would now get nervous if I didn't hear it when we're towing! :eek: :)



Bear in mind that the only time the Jacobs e-brake engages is when you have the switch turned on and when your foot is completely off the throttle (i. e. , during deceleration and at idle. ) It uses control module output to give a 0. 5 second delay from closed throttle condition to e-brake engagement - this to prevent engagement during shifts.



JM2CW - if you're towing heavy and have a manual transmission, an e-brake should be required equipment. ;)



Rusty
 
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Originally posted by M Barnett

Does anybody know if the brake can be turned on and off with the vacuum pump? Or is it an electric switch.



The Jacobs e-brake uses an electric switch that actuates a solenoid valve that turns the vacuum on and off to the e-brake's actuator.



Rusty
 
The Bob Verhoef shift knob/2-low kit does use vacuum as part of the equation involved in enabling the exhaust brake.
 
I installed a BD exhaust brake, but I like the ECM control that Jacobs uses, so I wired mine that way.



I installed one of Bob V's Super Shifter kits. His kit provides an Eaton Fuller shift knob with two switches built into it, and all the relays and tubing to provide a 2WL switch and control of the exhaust brake through a pneumatically-actuated microswitch.
 
Ethdee: I bought a 2 wheel low kit from Piers that has an electric switch and before I could get it mounted, I bought the Eaton Fuller knob like you have and installed it. The kit that Piers sells has the solenoid and tubing kit and I'm just trying to understand how to connect things to use the shifter knob to shift with instead of an electric switch. It seems to me that if using an air switch, we don't need the solenoid? Would it work just putting the air switch in line? Anything you can tell me?

Michael
 
BobV would know better than I, but I think he told me that the lines and switch do not flow enough on the EF setup to go direct to the brake valve, thus you still need a switch. I am running Bob's kit on my truck and it works sweet.



Shelby
 
Shelby's right. The switch uses 1/8" tubing, and that would severely slow down the actation of the valve. The valve has 1/4" lines running to the actuator. Plus, the valve doesn't have a "fail" position; it's vacuum-operated both ways, so simply using the on-off portion of the shift knob wouldn't work, anyway.



Bob's solution is simple and elegant. He uses a vacuum-operated actuator to operate a microswitch.



Jim
 
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