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Need suggestions on alignment with a 2" lift: Adjustable ball joints

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Tire choice help....please!

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I have a 2003 Ram 2500. it came with a 2" lift (don't know the brand, honestly it just looks like blocks). I like having the lift (plan on doing some off-road camping) with my 35" tires.

I got new ties, so I got it aligned. Unfortunately, it won't align. The shop says it is because of the lift, and I would need to shim the ball joints.

My question is:
-Is this true, do I need to go to adjustable ball joints or is there another solution?
-Any suggestions on good, long lasting adjustable ball joints?

Has anyone used these:
Amazon product ASIN B0747QSYRX
Why is there such a large price difference between these:
Amazon product ASIN B07JWBB59J
 
Oh boy, look for another shop please!!!!, they don't know the slightest what they are talking about.
You have a live axle, lifting the truck does not change the slightest on it... If it was upgraded to the T-steering not even the toe.

And of course stay away from these crappy offset balljoints, the only one that wants these is a guy with a bent axle and/or a circle racer.
 
What won't align? Caster? Camber? Toe in? Thrust angle? Tracking?

Caster can be set with offset washers on the lower control arms. A 2" puck on worn stock springs is not enough to run the adjustment out of spec.

Camber requires offset ball joint if the axle is bent that much. If it really is that far out a new axle is a better choice.

Toe in can be set with the tie rod.

Thrust angle is a little harder on the front axle if it is really off, will require adjustable control arms. Rear axle can be adjusted to a point by loosening the clamps and aligning the axle.

Tracking (front and rear axle square) will require and adjustable track bar if the front axle is too far out.

In reality until you get up to 3-4 inches of lift there is usually very little need for anything other than a caster and toe in adjustment. A 2" puck on stock springs doesn't normally require anything else UNLESS there are other issues like a bent axle or frame. Now that you know a little bit more of the WHAT you can go back and get a valid explanation of what they think is wrong. If they give you any grief over it, find another shop as they simply do not have the skills to do it correctly.
 
Now that you know a little bit more of the WHAT you can go back and get a valid explanation of what they think is wrong. If they give you any grief over it, find another shop as they simply do not have the skills to do it correctly.

After adjustment:

Camber Left Front: 0.6
Camber Right Front: -0.8

Caster Left Front: 4.5
Caster Right Front: 4.8

Left Toe: 0.07
Right Toe: -0.03

Front Total Toe: 0.04
Steer Ahead: 0.05

Left Rear Camber: -0.2
Right Rear Camber: -0.2

Left Rear Toe: 0.27
Right Rear Toe: 0.04

Rear Total Toe: 0.31
Rear Thrust Angle: 0.12
 
Caster and Toe look good, the camber readings look odd but overall if the truck drives well and there is no abnormal tire wear then I would just drive it.

The fact there is rear toe makes me really question the shops ability though......
 
So what is the problem with the alignment? What is the shop telling you?

It is a little high on caster, toe in looks good. Nothing really jumps so not sure what the problem being described is.
 
It wanders a little, pulls a little, and is out of spec in a few areas. In short, it doesn't feel like my three previous third gen 2500s. It jsut doesn't feel precise like the others.

This is my first lifted one, but it is only 2'.
 
Wild guess...
Check the existing upper Balljoints, you might as well have adjustables in it from the PO.
When I bought mine I had the same issue.

Your Camber readings indicate something like that.

You can see it easily without disassembling anything by watching for the grease zerk on top and down to the big nut that hold it to the knuckle.
These have to line up perfectly from any angle you watch on it.
 
Here are some great instructions and specs for any Dodge/Ram running a lift:

https://www.thurenfabrication.com/tech/alignment-and-handling.html
https://www.thurenfabrication.com/media/wysiwyg/THUREN_FAB_ALIGNMENT.pdf

2003-2013 4-link Ram solid axle trucks, caster notes.....
  • The adjustment cams are backwards on these trucks, compared to the newer radius arm 2013+ trucks. This means moving the arrow on the cam to the front of the truck, is increasing caster degree.
  • As you lift these trucks, if you leave the caster adjusters alone, the factory geometry causes the caster degree to increase. Normally after lifting 2-3", you need to back off the caster a little.
  • With a 2-3" lift, the caster cam "straight up", is generally the sweet spot. If you have wider stance wheels, or very heavy tires, often one mark closer to the rear of the truck can feel more stable.
Alignment specs (Thuren) 1994-2009 Diesel trucks ( 0.00 to 0.05* TOTAL toe-in / 3.8*-4.2* caster ) *(With T Style Steering)
 
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