Need Switched Aux power

[Wdoucet]

I need switched auxiliary power for auxiliary driving lights I installed. I was thinking about tapping into the cig lighter wire but cant see any wires behind the dash, didn't want to take everything apart, and can't pull out the lighter socket to try to tap into it.



Where di you guys get the power (switched) for all your gadgets from?



Thanks for any info.



Wayne

 

[ENafziger]

I had the center section of the dash (radio bezel) removed, so I used the wire feeding the rear power sliding window. --Eric

 

[Wdoucet]

I had the center section of the dash (radio bezel) removed, so I used the wire feeding the rear power sliding window. --Eric

ENafziger, how did you remove the center bezel, is it just snapped into place?



I dont have the power rear window, is the power ther anyways?

 

[Crunch]

I need switched auxiliary power for auxiliary driving lights I installed. I was thinking about tapping into the cig lighter wire but cant see any wires behind the dash, didn't want to take everything apart, and can't pull out the lighter socket to try to tap into it.

The auxiliary power question has been around for decades. Since the radio power is switched for most vehicles, a lot of people use that. Problem is that you sometimes end up with RF interference because of the new component. If you think you might add more electric components over the life of the truck it might be worth it to install a fused, electric patch board under the dash and power it directly off the battery. I'm currently powering my CB with the low power plug next to the cup holders because I don't like tapping into existing wires. I was also impressed that Dodge included the pigtail for a brake controller in the tow package. But with a patch board you could easily install a permanent power inverter, on-board air, lights and a boat-load of other electrical devices. Is there a valid reason why the manufacturers don't build in auxiliary power patch boards for vehicles? That would sure beat the hell out of air conditioned glove boxes and cup holders that heat and cool.

 

[Wdoucet]

My "Power" is presently pathched off the battery, I need a switch outlet to signal the relays (I have forgotten to turn the equipement off before).

 

[ENafziger]

ENafziger, how did you remove the center bezel, is it just snapped into place?

I dont have the power rear window, is the power ther anyways?<!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- / message -->

There are threads describing the center bezel removal thoroughly (can find by "search"), but on the '06 there are 2 screws that come up from the bottom. With these removed, the center section pulls out (rather hard, but it comes).

I would think the harness would be behind the dash even if you don't have the rear power window option. If not, there are plenty of connectors back there that you could probe with a volt meter until you found a switched ignition source.

Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual? It is very helpful, and can be downloaded free... "The Premiere website for Hemi Ram and Hemi SUVs. " On the left hand side, scroll down, and click on 2006 Manual.

Hope that helps... --Eric

 

[CHinton]

I added one of the painless fuse panels between the front seats under the lift up cushion. I bought this one from Geno's garage.

 

[DeezelDood]

Pulling center dash bezel is not hard. Have had postive responses on this procedure. You need to tap into the switched 20A power lead to driver side lighter (not pwr socket on passenger side). It's pink with yellow tracer.

I don't have one, but Genos' painless wiring kit looks like a good idea for easier future additions. Search around the forum. I found a lot searching "yellow tracer".



a. Remove rubber cup holder and plastic sunglass bin.

Remove (3) ea 8mm hex screws on drive shaft hump (two on passenger side, one driver side) 5/16 6-point socket works fine. Pull out this section.

b. Remove (2) more 8mm hex screws on drive shaft hump. These hold down the center console section that is under the center dash recess section. Pull out this section.

c. On Mega Cab (only) this also holds down the backseat AC duct. Duct will impede removal of center recess section. Simple slip joint. Slide out this duct.

d. Remove two black 7mm screws (cross point screwdriver also works). Pull the center recess section straight down. It's clipped in, just a good tug.

e. Remove two more 7mm/philips screws, one each pointing up under cig lighter and power socket. Hard to see but you can feel them with your fingers.

f. Starting on edge next to shifter, slowly snap out the center panel. The SLT wood grain, or Laramie silver, panel does not come off, it is permanently attached to the center panel. There are eight or so spring clips that will be difficult at first, buy you should be able to ease out the panel with your fingers. Avoid using a screw driver. If you have automatic, to remove the panel pull the spring loaded shifter towards you for clearance.

f. You can hang the panel on the wires, or disconnect the harnesses. I left the harnesses connected and rested the panel on a towel to prevent scratches.

g. Radio is held in with (4) black 7mm/philips screws. Radio is clipped in but pops out with a good tug. Warning: The unique Dodge antenna plug on back of radio will pull apart if you are not careful. Be sure to grab the black plastic housing when removing!

 

[CRuth]

Mine, I just tapped off the high beam wire. That way I can kill them quickly if need by and I can't think of any reason I wouldnt want the highs on at the same time.