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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need the PN off my injectors. How do I pull one?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel system proposal

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Seat Belts will not pull out

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I think the injectors that are in my truck are the wrong part number. It was rebuilt by some hack about 15k ago and I think he use the wrong injectors. So I'm wondering what do I need to pull one injector? I understand you can slide a piece of pipe over the injector and use a nut tightened down on the fuel line threads to pull the injector. Is this the best way to do it? Also do I need to buy new washers/gaskets to reinstall it with? What do you torque them to on the reinstall?

Thanks
 
You would need the numbers off the nozzles. I don't recommend that you disassemble an injector. The tiniest piece of dirt will mess you up.
 
injectors

Joe D,

Is running a piece of pipe over the injector the easiest way to pull them?:confused: What kind of nut works on the thread? I am about to tackle them. I've heard a pry bar/ screwdriver is the way of doing it as well. :confused:

Do you have any other tips on the tubes or washers? A little grease or oil before dropping them in?

I want to install DD3's in my truck. I think the 370's are a bit too much for the daily grind in traffic, 12 miles of stop lights every day , twice a day. :rolleyes:

Thanks,

WAYNES WORLD
 
Wayne take a lug off your truck. I slip the closed end of a large end wrench over the end of the injector, run the nut on, then pry up against a head bolt.



I would use a dab of antisieze on the body for easier future removal.



There are no tubes, that's a 24-valve thing. The washers depend on what injector you are installing. . . use whatever the vendor (DD) recommends. They should have a kit with several thicknesses of washers and the return line washers.



Procedure is basically:



--Disconnect batteries

--Disconnect wires to grid heater

--Remove intake horn

--Remove injector return line bolt at top of fuel filter, then at the injectors.

--Remove 2 injector hold-downs mounted on top of intake plate (do not remove one holding all lines together)

--Remove turbo boost rubber hose if so equipped (to allow removal of injector lines)

--Disconnect and remove injector lines as a bunch



I think doing injectors on a 12v is faster and easier than a 24v.



I think it takes a 1" socket to loosen the bolts, 10mm for the return line bolts, 19mm for the injector lines.
 
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Joseph Donnelly said:
You would need the numbers off the nozzles. I don't recommend that you disassemble an injector. The tiniest piece of dirt will mess you up.



It is true that the tiniest piece of dirt will mess you up. It is also true that if you're careful it is very simple to do. The 12v and 24v injectors are pretty simple devices compared to common rail injectors, for instance. Due dilligence.



The VW TDI injectors are similar in many ways, though they are more complex than the 12v/24v injectors. Literally thousands of TDI injector nozzles have been successfully swapped by shadetree mechanics in their backyards and garages. It's really not hard to do right.
 
Joe D,

I retrieved the issue, & will use it for reference. The brush, is it available by itself. i don't own one. Where does all the scrapping go ? Do you spin the motor over to blow it out? Or is it ok to leave there & put the injector in ?

Thank You,

Merry & Happy holidays to all,

Wayne
 
The slide hammer works the best that I have seen so far. I have alil different set-up tho, it's a sleeve that fits over/around the injector with a piece of all thread running threw the cap with a nut welded on the end to thread onto the injector. On top of the cap is another nut used to tighten down against the cap pulling the injector up.



It's alot easier just to pull the injection lines completely off. Tho you can "ask" them outta the way with a pry bar. Not a bad idea to have a pocket magnet and a thin pair of needlenose pliers handy incase something falls in the injector holes while their out.



Nathan
 
CG- Injectors have a 9/16"-18 thread on top; 15/16" deep socket to pull the holder; a 1" piece of pvc cut to the right length and a few washers will pull it right out.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I think I'll give it a try this weekend. Worst thing that could happen is I'll have to buy the bigger injectors that I probably already need. What about the washers, can they be reused? Motor only has 15k on is since it was rebuilt so they are probably in good shape right? Also when you pull the tip off the injector is there an o-ring or anything that needs to be replaced?

Thanks
 
Don't bend the lines. They can stress crack later and it is real hard to bend them back to original. They have to hold 17,000 psi pressure.

The threads are not 9/16, they are metric on our B engine injectors. First gen are M12 x 1. 5 and second gen are M14 x 1. 5. Lug nuts are available in both sizes. Nuts are metric too, either 15/16" or 24 mm socket will work.
 
If you loosen the line holders up alittle, you can get them to move or flex outta the way. Didn't mean to imply bending them, but they well flex enough to get them outta the way to pull the injector. But it is so much easier to just pull the whole group of lines off and do it that way.



Nathan
 
injectors

Joe D,

ndurbin,

Thank You guys for the fuel line info!!

I agree its sounds better to move them even a little for the first attempt. :D



I read somewhere that a 3/4 PVC pipe about 1 3/8 long could be substituted under the lug nut as a pry tool. Has anyone done this? It sounds easier on the back two injectors. :--)



I think I'll high pressure wash the injectors before I remove them. That may remove the dirt laying there. The ride home will dry the motor. This may provide less diort & easier removal from a warm motor. Does this sound like it will work? :-{}



This upgrade sounds easier now!! :-laf



Merry & Happy to all,



WAYNES WORLD
 
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