Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need to add POWER!

[CrewCabDiesel]

My neighbor has a low mileage 1998 Ram 3500 Quad Cab and pulls a 14K lb 5th wheel and needs more power for the mountains, it is a 12 Valve Automatic 4X2 Dually with 4:10s that is bone stock.
So what is a good build and keep it under $1000 that will not mess with the transmission, I have not worked on a P7100 pump before.
Right now in the plans
4 inch exhaust
gauges
Thinking a variable fuel plate???
Any other ideas?
Thanks
Kyle

 

[JStoll]

I would advise you do a search on p7100 pump mods but you can slide your stock plate, I think thats good for about 40hp and adjust the AFC, I ground my plate 100 shape.. and bumped up the timing.... I would strongly advise a shift kit to get the line pressure up in the trans... and improve clutch engagement time...Id also put in a better second gear band strut to keep it from bending... with stock line pressure it will be pretty easy to overpower the transmission... search 47re mods ...
but yeah a 4 inch exhaust and pump tweaks will improve the power of the truck quite a bit
Id almost start with the trans stuff and then increase power

take care
JAK

 

[Bob4x4]

Any mod that will be noticable will Require a better built trans.Allowing higher rpm(via gov springs and matching torque plate)will make driving it a bit nicer.Towing that much weight will put you at risk with out gauges to stay with-in safe temps

 

[MLee]

Trans is the weak point for what you want to do. Build that and then do gages.

 

[GrantP]

I'll pile on with the trans being the problem once you up the power. It really is better to do the trans and gauges first. A #6 and 3k GSK really worked well for me in my 12V. Given that the truck has 4.10's he may immediately benefit from just the 3k GSK. My truck had 3.54's but I could feel the governor coming in at highway speeds, if that's what he's experiencing he can do the GSK without worry of all of the other mods.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

ok, what is a GSK?

 

[JStoll]

governor spring kit ...

if you google P7100 mods there are several very informative leads you will find which will explain everything... its all been written and is easy to find just search for it

take care
JAK

 

[GAmes]

Joe Donnelly found from extensive testing that a 4 inch exhaust gives zero benefit until about 400 HP IIRC. I wouldn't add one HP until gauges were installed and the transmission built for the added power.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Hmm, 4" exhaust been working for me on 1st , 2nd And 3rd gen cummins for the last 20 years. I always felt that getting air in and out better of an internal combustion engine is a safe bet. Thats 44 years of experience from working on everything from a slant 6 to a Huey. But I also know to ask for help on something new, a p 7100 pump is new to me and it's for a 80 year old vet who likes to get out there and have fun. I am trying to build a base and keep it under $1000, exhaust system, gauges, and some mild tweaks, until he wants to build the trans and other upgrades

 

[GAmes]

Sure it works, but it does nothing for power. Joe proved it on a dyno. When my stock 3 inch rusted out I installed a 4" MBRP system. No change in EGTs, no increase in power. I'm at 313 HP/756 TQ which is plenty for hauling big trailers. I have plenty of experience on Hueys too, both turning wrenches and flying them. I fail to see a connection. Adding power to a p-pump engine is nearly free, so feel free to stay under $1000 and don't do anything to the trans. After all, there are only five of us advising otherwise.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Those are a start to more serious upgrades, we are replacing needed parts, exhaust is broke in two, and the truck is weak on power, has 156000 miles, no blow by, and runs smooth, trans shifts solid an constantly, just had a checkup and bands adjusted. Now trying to check lift pump fuel pressure, valve adjustment, and I am wondering if the timing is off on the p7100. so I need the truck at a starting point and running at stock level before we add power beyond stock. To mess with a solid trans is a waste of time and money until the truck is running at its full stock potential or even a little above. As for the dyno, unless there was a large sample of trucks tested, really doesn't prove anything, too many variables.

 

[GAmes]

As for the dyno, unless there was a large sample of trucks tested, really doesn't prove anything, too many variables.

I guess you have never heard of Sickly.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Nope, I never heard of sickly,

 

[GAmes]

Pity. A lot of knowledge to be gained reading about going from a stock '97, 215 Cummins to over 800 HP. I have thought about the Huey connection though. Going from an L9 Lycoming, to an L11 in the D model, then an L13 which made the D model an H model, the torque limit remained the same. It was a transmission limitation. Think about it.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Wow nice try, as I said I worked on hueys and I don't like being questioned by a lot of bs , my mos was a 68D10, and I did work on the transmissions on a Huey, along with other helicopters in camp Humphreys South Korea , 8th Army, 45th transportation company also known as the Flying Tigers. Unfortunately I ended up in 121st evacuation hospital for over 30 days recovering from a avionics accident that ended my military career. So now I have to fight the VA and deal with a holes who want make themselves feel big by giving others crap
So **** off

 

[GAmes]

No BS, just facts. You were looking for input. Too bad you didn't hear something that fit your preconceived notions. Good luck to your neighbor.

 

[GrantP]

A 4" exhaust isn't going to net any hp gain on a stock engine, if the stock exhaust is shot then fine...just don't look at it as a performance adder. A GSK and fuel plate will only set you back a little over 300 bucks and will make a dramatic difference. You may also need to adjust the AFC too, but that's a trade off between smoke and throttle response pre-boost. Try that first, I'll be really surprised if you're friend isn't happy after that. Just watch that EGT gauge when towing...