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Need transfer case linkage photo

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Intermittent light surge at hiway speeds.

Code: P2609

2006 2500, 5.9l 4x4. I was doing a lot of 4x4 driving around the ranch this weekend and when I went to shift back into 2wd to get back on the highway, the shifter just flopped back and forth. Uh oh. I crawled underneath and the linkage between the shifter and the T case is totally gone. Must’ve rattled off somewhere. I’m looking at exploded diagrams online and can’t find one that looks like my truck. Attached is what I have to work with. Could someone please post a pic of their truck so I can see what intact linkage looks like, or perhaps direct me to the correct exploded diagram so I know what parts and hardware I need to order? Thanks!
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That’s very helpful. Thank you! I sure wish I could find that in an OEM Dodge part. Everything I’ve looked at his much more complicated and not sold as a complete linkage set.
 
That’s very helpful. Thank you! I sure wish I could find that in an OEM Dodge part. Everything I’ve looked at his much more complicated and not sold as a complete linkage set.
I replaced mine last year. The grommets disintegrate and the link rod falls out. I bought 2 kits (@ $15/ea) last year so I carry a spare.
 
Looks like the Mopar part number is 55366066AB. I’d prefer to buy OEM. Problem is, all the Mopar kits show the rod and the hardware, but not the two rubber bushings. Has anyone bought this Mopar part and can you confirm if it came with the bushings or not?
 
Well job is done. Replaced the linkage rod and bushings. Seemed easy enough, but now I have a problem. It will not go into and out of 4L without a horrible grinding and gnashing of gears. It didn’t do this before. Before I would put trans (auto) into N and shift T case lever into and out of 4L with no problem, motor running. Now, the only way I can get it to go in and out of low without grinding, is to shut the motor off. What happened?
 
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Sounds as if linkage is not quite where it needs to be. Need to do subtle adjustments to tweak it. I would find neutral, then find the extreme ends of it, set rods for middle and test. Put front end up on stands and if you have helper, they can turn wheels as you make the adjustments. You're close, just need a bit more. Glad you found the parts before winter arrives!
 
I figured. I set the bar with the Trans Case in the 2wd position. I don’t know what’s the proper location to bolt the linkage back up. It seems to offer plenty of travel to get the lever to shift into all locations, but obviously there’s issues. Is there a factory service bulletin on this someone can look up? What position does Dodge say to have it in when you bolt the linkage back up?

I’d prefer no more trial and error as I really don’t want to grind the gears more than I already have.
 
Thank you very much!

But what on earth does this mean?


6. Align the adjustment locating hole on the lower shifter lever with the adjustment channel on the shifter bracket assembly.

adjustment locating hole? Adjustment channel? Huh?
 
I'm guessing it's this area.

There appears to be a pin where the arrow is pointing to put the shifter into a position then attach the mechanism.

I've taken my 96 apart before but never got it back together. And it's different then this set up.

Maybe someone who has performed this can take a look and see if that makes sense.

Screenshot_20221103_190613.jpg
 
Interesting. Mine doesn’t have and such pin. I can see the hole in the shifter lever, but that pin isn’t there anymore.
 
Interesting. Mine doesn’t have and such pin. I can see the hole in the shifter lever, but that pin isn’t there anymore.
I think the pin gets installed just to hold it then remove it, it's temporarily there for this step.
 
With the pin holes aligned I would think the shifter would be in 2H.

Again just going by what I'm reading.
 
With the pin holes aligned I would think the shifter would be in 2H.

Again just going by what I'm reading.
Yes it seems pretty clear to have it in 2H, which I did, but I’m unclear on what pin holes we're talking about exactly. I see the hole in the shifter lever, but then I’m not sure what else I’m supposed to line it up with on the linkage bracket. I’m not seeing anything that looks like an “adjustment channel”.
 
To keep it from grinding you need to move the lever fast(er).

As soon as your TC moves into Neutral the input shaft spins up just by the drag forces inside the AT and that causes the TC to grind going into gear again. This can be avoided by moving the lever quick.

Another way is to have the AT in P for the shift so nothing moves and you have all the time of the world to do the shift.
 
Interesting. Mine doesn’t have and such pin. I can see the hole in the shifter lever, but that pin isn’t there anymore.

That's why it says use an appropriate one, it is only there during adjustment to keep the shift lever in the 2H position, without that it would be free floating. After adjustment that pin is removed otherwise the shift lever would be l9cked in place.
 
The point of that whole adjustment procedure is to have some "air" left at both ends, that the shift lever itself doesn't bottom out at either end of the channel.
It's the TC and its linkage that determines the position of the shift lever and not vice versa.
 
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