Need your advice...

[Archive]

Here’s my situation: Time to replace heater hoses--they’re starting to look threatening. Most worked out well with bulk, but the two right angle ones (top and bottom, front) and the radiator bypass hose looked like they needed to be factory.

The local DC dealer’s part shop (usually very good) missed the right part three times, and on the fourth, brought in a hose that looked right, but was marked, “oil line. ” They said the original part number came up canceled, and that this “oil line” was the replacement. I understand that oil hose won’t hold up well with ethylene glycol and hot water.

Soooo... I took it to a local shop, and they made up the right angle hoses from longer pre-shapes, and used a loop of fuel line for the radiator bypass hose. The pre-shapes look good, but the bypass hose kinda spooks me (the orig. is about 5 in. with two right angles; the new one from fuel line is about 7 in. and is a curve up and back.

Have any of you had better luck finding OEM heater hoses? If not, how did you solve it? And I guess the bottom line is, do you think what I did will last? I’m headed out west for a good ramble-and-ride, and I don’t want any surprises!

Thanks!

------------------
'95 2500 LB 2WD, auto, 66,000--Westech gauges, Prime-loc, Brite box, Back-off Box, Line X, Flowmaster muffler, Borgeson steering shaft

[This message has been edited by Kodiak (edited 09-21-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Kodiak,rather than worry about your new hoses why don't you throw the the old ones that concern you,if they're still useable,under the seat,cheap insurance and peace of mind.

 

[Archive]

On a gas burnier 87 Dodge 250 I had a problem with heater hoses and the on/off switch to control the flow of hot water thru the heater. I solved it by using standard copper fittings, a brass valve and copper tubing standard stuff at the lkocal hardware store. . When I needed heat in the winter, pop the hood open the valve. In the summer close the valve so there wasn't heat in the cab. The 1/2" copper pipe was a little small so I added a couplying to bring the pipe up to a larger size to match the heater hose size. Sliped the copper into the heater hose using standard hose clamps to put it back togeather. I made twist and turns with copper, then hose for the straight runs. Maybe something like this will work for you. Stephen in Sanger CA.

 

[Archive]

The bypass might be available through Cummins

------------------
4-sale with less than 19,000 miles. '99, 3/4, QC, SLT, 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 3. 5xlsd, tow pac, HD tcase, tow mirrors, camper pac, White over driftwood, Mist gray interior.

 

[Archive]

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions.

BV, I tried Cummins South, and they said heater hoses are "extra engine" and are not carried by them--try Dodge. Been there.

Sanger, I'm afraid the copper work is a little above my level of competence, but it sure sounds like an elegant and permanent fix!

Dan emailed me in response to my post and gave me the numbers for NAPA; seems they can obtain them for me. I think that's my next stop.

Thanks again for all the help!

------------------
'95 2500 LB 2WD, auto, 66,000--Westech gauges, Prime-loc, Brite box, Back-off Box, Line X, Flowmaster muffler, Borgeson steering shaft

 

[Archive]

Bought the 90 degree hoses from cummins last fall (still laying in the box but going on soon). There are several. The auto trans cooler uses them also. The little bypass hose I didn't have luck with. I can post the part numbers if you want- let me know and I'll go digging.

------------------
'94 3500 4x4, 201,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (currently under remodification), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"