Needed-tips on clutch pedal repair

[JDancoe]

The clutch safety switch on my ’92 W-250 CTD was getting harder & harder to activate, you really have to slam it down hard to the floor.
I initially thought it was because I had installed new carpets and sound deadening material on the cab floor.

Today, while working under the dash, I noticed there is substantial slack or free-play in the pedal, so I disconnected the clutch M/C rod to check the bushing, this is what I found. (See photos)

Has anyone else had similar problems? How did you get the worn pin out? It appears to be a pressed assembly; I see no sign of welding. I think if I can get the old pin out, I could fabricate a new pin from a 10mm bolt (measured diameter of the existing pin) and install that in place of the worn part.

I can always drop back to “Special Tool –BFH” but was wondering if anyone had a better/different method.

 

[NIsaacs]

I can always drop back to “Special Tool –BFH” but was wondering if anyone had a better/different method.

Thats what I did, it will come out. Then I just used a 1/2" bolt with double nuts to lock it in place. The eye was worn some too, so without a bushing, the 1/2" was about right.

Nick

 

[DVolk]

I just took the wires and jumped around them

 

[JDancoe]

I have it fixed.
Knocked the old pin out and fabricated a new one. I used a 3/8" Gr.8 bolt & (2) nuts, similar I think to what Nick suggested. However, I also fabricated a metal bushing to press into the eye of the M/C rod. I also drilled the bolt to allow greasing with Needle point grease fitting occasionally. Should last forever.

Donovan, you're right about jumping around the switch, but the switch issue was only an indicator of other problems. For instance, the worn pin & eye altered the response of the clutch, making it harder to get complete release, and re-engaging "right off the floor".

Anyway, got fixed now. Thanks, guys, for the input.

Jack Dancoe

 

[DVolk]

On mine the switch broke also the cab leak did not help

 

[JDancoe]

OK - Different situation. My switch works, just couldn't get the pedal down to engage it without really stomping it. By the way, I think I might have a spare switch, would you want it? If you're interested, I'll look for it.
Jack Dancoe

 

[HHhuntitall]

Jack, I've seen this many times over the years... I just MIG weld the rod a few beads, then machine/grind down to fit the original. Takes a little time, but takes the slack out. It sounds like your bolt idea will work good, but if there are threads in the bushing, the sharp edges of the bolt will probably eat them up.... Did you get a long enough bolt so the shank is working on the bushing?

 

[JDancoe]

"H" - great minds think alike! See the photos. The bushing I used I cut to be about twice the width of the original eye in the M/C push rod.I t is 1/2" OD, and a light push to install. I also used some green Loc-Tite to secure it. The portion of the bolt the bushing rides on is in fact the unthreaded shank. (See the photos). I bushed the hole in the clutch lever after I knocked the original pin out to 3/8", and secured the bolt with nuts on both sides of the lever. The lube hole, as you can see, is nothing fancy. Just a 1/8" hole crosswise, another drilled lengthwise to intersect. I can get a angle head needle grease adapter into the hole to put a squirt of grease in when I do a lube on the truck. I think it will work OK.
Jack Dancoe

 

[GCroyle]

Jack,

A very promising looking field repair.

How are the bushings for the pedal on the cross shaft? If this is loose, you're still a little bit wiggly. If it feels spongy after assembly, shout out. There's some easy ways to burp these systems.

Gary

 

[JDancoe]

The bushings for the clutch/brake pedal cross-shaft looked really good, no obvious visible wear. Of, course, while I had everything apart, I did lube them.

The clutch operation feels really good, but I would appreciate seeing what you suggest for burping or bleeding the hydraulic clutch. Never know when the info might come in handy, either for my own truck, or for friends.

Thanks,
Jack Dancoe

 

[GCroyle]

Jack,

Your master cyl is piston port design fluid comes in at about the middle of the cyl, newer trucks are tappet valve fluid comes in at almost the end of the cyl. What works for one don't work for the other.

Visualize a bubble in your system, air in a fluid would want to go UP. Let it.

Remove the slave cylinder, point pushrod end down a little bit, remove cap and boot from reservoir. Have assistant watch fluid.

Hold slave cyl, slowly push the pushrod in completely compressing it.

A large volume of fluid will go up and back into the reservoir, bubbles get pushed out, pulls in fluid when you slowly let the cyl expand.

Repeat several times watching for bubbles.

Your system also will SLOWLY push bubbles back out into the reservoir with use.

And to double check the system, make sure you do at least a few compressions now that you've repaired the system. If you cannot compress the slave cyl that means the master cylinder piston is pushed in closing off the return to reservoir port. That must be corrected.

Gary

 

[JDancoe]

Gary,
Thanks for the information. I did essentially what you described before I identified the worn pin problem. I just finished re-installing the engine, trans, etc. after having them out to do a complete re-seal/re-gasket job. I had left the slave cylinder hanging rod down and the piston had extended. When I re-installed it I had my wife watch the master cylinder reservoir for bubbles, and she didn't see any. Since replacing the pin the clutch seems to be working perfectly. Pedal feel is good, engagement is smooth, and the safety switch works like it should!

Thanks again for the information, I'll keep it mind, and pass it on to others.
Jack Dancoe

 

[GCroyle]

Lets give all the credit to your better half, if she didn't help no telling where this job would have ended up!

 

[Deathrowdave]

I dealing same issue , Heim joint works well. I’m in need of petal bushings . I seem to remember someone selling Delrin bushings , but no good on finding any of them yet . Any help as to where to locate and purchase Delrin petal bushings ? Thanks and be safe in your travels

 

[DVolk]

Contact Mysteryman on here he has a bunch of them

 

[JDancoe]

Heim joint sounds like a great idea. Did you thread the clutch push-rod or weld the heim joint on?