Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Neglected PM’s.
I have worked on automotive systems for over 35 years.
I have worked at dealerships servicing Mercedes Benz, BMW, Peugeot, Fiat, Saab, Volvo and Honda vehicles.
I then worked 16 years at GE in the Transmission Engineering Development Laboratory during the development and testing of the transmission used in the US Armies Bradley Fighting Vehicle system. I have spent thousands of hours operating test cells from 500 to 1200 HP.
I have also performed hundreds of transmission teardown evaluations and builds.
Steam turbine testing was next.
I have worked with some extraordinary engineers during this time and learned much by watching, listening and doing. It was certainly a great experience.
I only say this so you understand that I speak from experience.
I currently have my own repair shop.
BMW and Mercedes have service intervals for power steering and brake fluid changes, why don’t we??
How often does your owner’s manual suggest that the power steering fluid or brake fluid be replaced? The answer: I don’t believe it does.
How many of us have actually read the owners manual and actually had the recommended service done on the front or rear axle or transfer case?
I have not seen any posts where anyone does maintenance on these silent and forgotten systems in their vehicles.
We had a throwaway, trade it in or (no clue) or mentality. We can no longer afford to operate like that. The economy is terrible, and the price of a new CTD exceeds the price of my first house.
We can no longer ignore the small systems within our vehicles; they are too complex and expensive to repair. But we can perform PM’s that are relatively easy and easy on the wallet.
If you can’t perform the work have it done it’s not that expensive and is certainly cheaper than a repair.
For me it all started when I bought my new CTD in 1990.
I started my PM, s on the power steering using suction bulbs (turkey baster) found in the auto store. I remove the old fluid and replace with new. I renew the fluid in all my vehicles at least yearly.
I know of no American manufactures that recommends changing it that I'm aware of. This takes only minute’s literally. Granted you don't get all the fluid out but if you do it several times you will get the contaminates and old fluid diluted to the point of no concern. To remove the lines and flush the system is time consuming and too messy for me.
Another PM that I do is to remove all the brake fluid from the master cylinder when I do a brake job, although it can be done at any time. NOTE!! ONLY USE A NEW CLEAN SUCTION BULB; OIL OF ANY KIND CAN DESTROY A BRAKE SYSTEM. LABEL THIS ONE FOR BRAKES ONLY!!!
The purpose of this is to keep the system free of moisture. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture and moisture creates rust. Next time you check the fluid level look at the color of the brake fluid, if it’s dark it needs changing. With today’s complex antilock brake systems this is critical for a long trouble free life.
If you have a helper you can also bleed the system.
Transfer cases with chain drive can be really hard on oil; fortunately it is easy to change and only takes 2 to 4 quarts. Again if it looks dark and does not smell pleasant change it.
Automatic Transmissions.
They say that the color and smell of transmission fluid is no longer an indication of its condition and may still be serviceable. How are we to know???
Once again if it is dark in color and does not smell pleasant change it.
A filter change and band adjustment if applicable is important but only 2 to 4 quarts of oil will drain during this procedure. There is still old oil in the transmission and it needs to be removed and replaced. But wait there is no drain plug!
What I do!!
After the service I tell the customer to run the vehicle and the next time they come in we will change the oil again through the filler tube with a small pump and hose that I bought on e-bay. It is best if the oil is warm because it will flow much better.
This procedure is quick (5 to 10 minutes).
These procedures work for me and my customers. My intention is to keep it as painless and as inexpensive as possible. If it gets too complicated it’s likely that it’s not going to get done. If I told a customer it was going to cost $125 to change the transmission oil it most likely would not happen. When I tell them it will cost $25 they say do it.
Some may say that the only way to change the power steering oil is to remove a hose and drain it into a bucket while at the same time filling the reservoir.
Too complicated for me. I say a little maintenance performed often works too.
Your feedback is welcome. Please feel free to add your thoughts, ideas.
Thanks Tim
I have worked on automotive systems for over 35 years.
I have worked at dealerships servicing Mercedes Benz, BMW, Peugeot, Fiat, Saab, Volvo and Honda vehicles.
I then worked 16 years at GE in the Transmission Engineering Development Laboratory during the development and testing of the transmission used in the US Armies Bradley Fighting Vehicle system. I have spent thousands of hours operating test cells from 500 to 1200 HP.
I have also performed hundreds of transmission teardown evaluations and builds.
Steam turbine testing was next.
I have worked with some extraordinary engineers during this time and learned much by watching, listening and doing. It was certainly a great experience.
I only say this so you understand that I speak from experience.
I currently have my own repair shop.
BMW and Mercedes have service intervals for power steering and brake fluid changes, why don’t we??
How often does your owner’s manual suggest that the power steering fluid or brake fluid be replaced? The answer: I don’t believe it does.
How many of us have actually read the owners manual and actually had the recommended service done on the front or rear axle or transfer case?
I have not seen any posts where anyone does maintenance on these silent and forgotten systems in their vehicles.
We had a throwaway, trade it in or (no clue) or mentality. We can no longer afford to operate like that. The economy is terrible, and the price of a new CTD exceeds the price of my first house.
We can no longer ignore the small systems within our vehicles; they are too complex and expensive to repair. But we can perform PM’s that are relatively easy and easy on the wallet.
If you can’t perform the work have it done it’s not that expensive and is certainly cheaper than a repair.
For me it all started when I bought my new CTD in 1990.
I started my PM, s on the power steering using suction bulbs (turkey baster) found in the auto store. I remove the old fluid and replace with new. I renew the fluid in all my vehicles at least yearly.
I know of no American manufactures that recommends changing it that I'm aware of. This takes only minute’s literally. Granted you don't get all the fluid out but if you do it several times you will get the contaminates and old fluid diluted to the point of no concern. To remove the lines and flush the system is time consuming and too messy for me.
Another PM that I do is to remove all the brake fluid from the master cylinder when I do a brake job, although it can be done at any time. NOTE!! ONLY USE A NEW CLEAN SUCTION BULB; OIL OF ANY KIND CAN DESTROY A BRAKE SYSTEM. LABEL THIS ONE FOR BRAKES ONLY!!!
The purpose of this is to keep the system free of moisture. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture and moisture creates rust. Next time you check the fluid level look at the color of the brake fluid, if it’s dark it needs changing. With today’s complex antilock brake systems this is critical for a long trouble free life.
If you have a helper you can also bleed the system.
Transfer cases with chain drive can be really hard on oil; fortunately it is easy to change and only takes 2 to 4 quarts. Again if it looks dark and does not smell pleasant change it.
Automatic Transmissions.
They say that the color and smell of transmission fluid is no longer an indication of its condition and may still be serviceable. How are we to know???
Once again if it is dark in color and does not smell pleasant change it.
A filter change and band adjustment if applicable is important but only 2 to 4 quarts of oil will drain during this procedure. There is still old oil in the transmission and it needs to be removed and replaced. But wait there is no drain plug!
What I do!!
After the service I tell the customer to run the vehicle and the next time they come in we will change the oil again through the filler tube with a small pump and hose that I bought on e-bay. It is best if the oil is warm because it will flow much better.
This procedure is quick (5 to 10 minutes).
These procedures work for me and my customers. My intention is to keep it as painless and as inexpensive as possible. If it gets too complicated it’s likely that it’s not going to get done. If I told a customer it was going to cost $125 to change the transmission oil it most likely would not happen. When I tell them it will cost $25 they say do it.
Some may say that the only way to change the power steering oil is to remove a hose and drain it into a bucket while at the same time filling the reservoir.
Too complicated for me. I say a little maintenance performed often works too.
Your feedback is welcome. Please feel free to add your thoughts, ideas.
Thanks Tim
