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I have a stack no muffler and a K&N ever since1week before my stack my truck never warms up. do I need a new sensor? guage just clears the first line after Cold never gets to second and turns on fan. wiyth or without cold front
Sounds to me like a bad thermostat or sensor. I can't think of any reason that your stack and air filter could have caused this problem.
Does the heater work? If you've got heat in the cab then maybe the sensor is fried. If you don't have heat, the thermostat could be stuck open. Check your coolant level in the radiator and make sure it's full. Had a coolant leak on my 318 powered W100 once. The temp gauge wasn't going up because it wasn't in contact with the coolant. Then it heated up real quick when the remaining coolant boiled and blew up the top radiator hose . With the engine cold, take off the radiator cap and start the engine. If you can see the coolant flowing through the radiator, then the thermostat is stuck open. Would probably be a good idea to change the thermostat anyway.
I'd be inclined to suspect either the temp sender or the thermostat too.
Warm up the truck, touch the top of the rad tank. If the thermostat is working right the tank top will be nearly too hot to keep your hand on it... around 165-180*F (These trucks are a bit notorious for running too cool to begin with, 160*F)
If the top is cool then the thermostat is most likely the problem.
From there it's a piece of cake to replace either one.
If you want a thermostat that works get the Cummins one. All the others just create problems, like no warm-up or heat in the cab, or extreme cycling of engine temps.
You pay your money and take your chances, keep your reciept. I installed the Cummins stat and took it back as it wouldnt get over 160deg. The NAPA stat works fine except for the cycling problem which these engines have had from the factory for years and Cummins says is not a problem but at least now I get 185 deg temps and warmups are faster.
Cummins list 2 thermostats for the 1st gens, You need to ask for the one the DOES Not fluctuate. As for using a NAPA thermostat, don't, there has been problems with them getting stuck CLOSED. For the money, get it from Cummins and do it once. if the one from Cummins fails it will stick open not closed, better to have no heat than a cooked Cummins. I installed a Cummins thermostat (replacing a Napa one that stuck closed) in my crew cab and had heat for the first time.
Jeez Crewcab, throwing money at that truck or what???????
Bet you miss that noisy, rough riding, rut-wallowing crewcab you *USED* to have, huh? Are you going to build a 'real' crewcab, or just use the doors from one of the new wanna-be's?
oops! already in!!! about 1/2 hour ago!! I'll keep my eye on it. looks like it was changed not to long ago. I've had it for just over 1 year. thanks for the heads up
I hope to send the truck to Bayer for two more real doors. Cost with the leather seat, power windows/ locks. Cost for the upgrade $15,000. Yea I know that a lot of money, but when you add it all up, its cheaper than buying a new crew cab.
My 2001 3500 4X4 Quad Cab =$19,000
Two more doors = $15,000
Bombing toys and new tires = $4,000
Other toys and upgrades = $2,000
Total === $40,000
$40,000 for a SIX door 9 Passenger Dodge with a 500hp bombed Cummins, don't sound so bad does it ?
I thought you were just gonna make it into a four door, didn't realize you were gonna make it into a CrewQuadCab. Now that would be different. Are you gonna leave the longbed, or go to a shorty?
Long bed of course, a short bed pickup is a car with a big trunk(no offense ment) I need a 8 foot box to haul stuff, and a CrewQuad Cab to haul the family. Lets see Dodge start building these
The truck will not be much longer than my 1st gen Crew Cab, it will be only about 18 inches longer. As for parking it, Uncle Sam got me a perment handicap parking sticker for the damage to my knees and back. And would you believe it is my daily driver ? .