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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New 12 valve

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12 valve mods.

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VP44 + Heat + FASS?

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I'm going tomorrow to buy a 96' reg. cab 3500 2wd 5 speed with 175000 mi. on it. The guy wants $7000. for it and it looks and sounds like it is a very well taken care of truck, but my only CTD's were a 2001, and a 2003 I don't know much about the 12 valve motor. What should I look for to make sure there's nothing major wrong with it? Thanks
 
Really the only things to look for, would be any signs of KDP failure and may or may not need to deal with the 5th gear nut on the transmission.



May need a few seals here or there sometime down the road.



What kind of shape is the clutch in?



At those miles, you may need a lift pump. If it is ticking loud, it may need to be replaced. A spring inside the pump starts to relax (gets shorter), and allows the parts to tap against each other. I replaced mine around those miles because of it.



The valves may need to be adjusted. 12v engines need that done more frequently than the 24v.



I've got a tad over 200k, and haven't had to do much to the truck, other than routine maintanace. Most of what I've spent on the truck has been BOMBs. :D
 
I'm glad you said that about the ticking because he told me something about that, but he didn't know what it was. About how much is it for a new lift pump for that truck and to get the valves adjusted? Also, it's about 175 mi. away and I'm planning on driving it back home tomorrow, you think it will be ok to drive that far?Thanks
 
NAPA has them...

A quick search revealed a part number of M73104 $132. 98 before tax...

valves you can do yourself... . probably a good time to put some new valve cover gaskets on there too... . I was reading something about using the marine ones or something along those lines I'm sure someone will post and correct me. .





hope this helps!!
 
Ask if it's ever had the ball joints replaced. . When I bought my 95 with just under 200,000 miles on it, they were shot. . I drove it 800 miles each way with 11,000 pounds on it right after I bought it. . It pulled better than expected. . It actually pulled better and got better mileage than my 13 second dmax. . I wouldn't be scared to drive it home at all. .
 
Thank's very much, for the help. Yea, I've heard about the 53 block and know where to find it at but, I heard that they didn't start producing them until late 97'? Is this right? Thanks
 
DDubose said:
I'm glad you said that about the ticking because he told me something about that, but he didn't know what it was. About how much is it for a new lift pump for that truck and to get the valves adjusted? Also, it's about 175 mi. away and I'm planning on driving it back home tomorrow, you think it will be ok to drive that far?Thanks



Bought my pump from the C-IH dealer. Was less than $100, including the 2 gaskets that go between the pump, fuel heater bracket and the block.



Can't say on the valve adjust, I do my own. If you wer close to me, I'd do it for you. I've been down to San Antonio to see my brother, but I won't be back down 'til winter, if I can.



DDubose said:
I heard that they didn't start producing them until late 97'? Is this right? Thanks



I think you are correct. '98 for sure.
 
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Heck, having a 12v and not adjusting your own valves is like have a wife and not... ... . well never mind. :rolleyes:



However it, let's just say, trys my patients, to lay under the truck and pretzel my arm to reach up and try to frig that dowel pin in the TDC hole on my 98. Any handy hints. The 97 will be due soon enough. :)



Must to say having barring tool also came in handy for retorqueing the vibration damper pulley whilst performing the KDP surgery.
 
$7k for a dually with those miles isn't a bad deal even if it's 2-wheel drive. I paid $9000 for my '96 4x4 last year with 351,217 on the clock but it was in pretty decent shape.



Vaughn
 
Also, what are some good first mods but not too much? Is there any need for a transmission temp guage? Just wandering because I have boost, pyro, & transmission guages waiting for the truck. But keep in mind that I'm going to be pulling a 32'X6' cattle trailer every night mon. -thurs. And every once and a while a 36'X6'8". So I don't want to be tearing anything up just yet. I do have a set of stacks in mind though. 5" or 6"? And what's the deal with the KDP? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to learn. Thanks
 
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Ol'TrailDog said:
However it, let's just say, trys my patients, to lay under the truck and pretzel my arm to reach up and try to frig that dowel pin in the TDC hole on my 98. Any handy hints.



I just watch the valves. When both valves are closed on TDC #1 for the first half, then #6 for the rest.



Don't need to use the pin for that. Not like setting the timming on the fuel injection pump.
 
DDubose said:
Also, what are some good first mods but not too much? Is there any need for a transmission temp guage?



Given where you live and what you are pulling, it wouldn't be a bad idea to install a transmission temp gauge. Maybe even one for the rear end.



Until you have a strong clutch, a #10 slid to the rear and a 3k GSK would help.



DDubose said:
I do have a set of stacks in mind though. 5" or 6"?



I like the way you think. :D Love mine.



DDubose said:
And what's the deal with the KDP?



It is an alignment pin for the front timing case. It can potentially fall out and into the gear train to do damage. Caught mine in time. :D



All you need to do is, pull the front cover. Seat the pin and peen the hole so it won't fall out. Check the bolts inside the case, Loctite and tighten, if needed (I had to). Close up, and you are done. Replace the front crank seal while the cover is off. I would use the dirt seal, if the new seal comes with one. Goes between the seal and vibration dampener. 2 hr job if it all goes well.
 
Ditto on the #10 plate and 3kgsk. . Since you have the gauges on the way those would be my first. . slide the plate back like they said and it should treat your clutch nicely with enough top end to pull well without running too high an EGT.
 
Well I got the truck and it's very clean but it has a few small problems. The fuel & temp guages don't work and it has an oil leak but it's not coming from the front of the motor. There are holes in the bed where it used to have stacks, I guess the dealer took them off and put 2" exhaust because that's what was on it, so yesterday I put 4". That helped a lot. I don't know what is on it or how to find out but let's put it like this, on my 03 auto. I have an air intake, aeroturbine muffler, and a quad race box. And with the box set at 100, this 12v. will outrun it. Whatcha think about that?
 
i've had my truck a couple weeks now

my fuel gauge problem was a worn level sender, i pulled it out cleaned and tweaked the contacts and it works fine now, about the only time the temp gauge comes off the first line is when i run the ac or run it real hard so i think somebody removed the thermostat, ill be installing one when i get the chance to service the cooling system
 
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