Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New 12V Owner, Need input on 12V care and maitenance

[CRodi]

Thanks jgillott for the information. I'm going to make sure I check that when I get my first Dodge, probably not a worry as I'm looking at a 1st or second generation but still worth a check.

George

Those are exactly the ones that are affected. By the 3rd gen. the problem was pretty well solved, but of course there was always a bit of carry over from the previous gen.

 

[CRodi]

Those are exactly the ones that are affected. By the 3rd gen. the problem was pretty well solved, but of course there was always a bit of carry over from the previous gen.

Sorry George, I gave you the wrong information. The 1st and 2nd gen 12 valve engines had dowel pin problems. The engines affected, I believe were from 1989 to 1998. The 24 valve version of the 2nd gen was introduced in Jan. 1998 as a 1998. 5 and ran until model year 2002. I believe some of the early 24 valve owners had problems with the dowel pin. I should have said 24 valve version, instead of 3rd gen.

 

[The patriot]

I just purchased a one owner, 1996 2500, extend cab, long box, 4x4, auto, in the Laramie package with 221k miles. This truck is ugly, but solid and rust free.



I am concerned that while the previous owner was good about oil changes and trans fluid changes, that was about it. I have to this point been a common rail Cummins owner, so the 12V is new to me. I am looking for input as to what PM and reliability upgrades I should do to get the most out of the truck. Here is what I plan to do:

-Truck won't idle. Posted earlier, and going to try looking in to that tonight.

-I may need to steam clean the engine, just to see where I am at. It is filthy, but nothing major jumps out at me.

-Steering is crap. I plan on purchasing a whole bunch of front end parts and just re doing the front end. I need to check out and see if it is just worn components or if the steering box is the source of the play.

-Take the truck to a good trans shop, and have them drop the pan and do a PM.

-Change all the fluids (oil, front and rear diff, coolant). Change the fuel filter.

-Replace the thermostat

-Air filter

-Inspect hoses and belts, replace as necessary.

-Brakes all around, inspect the hoses. Flush the brake fluid. The brake and ABS light are currently on, so I will need to do some investigating as to why.

-Have the AC charged. It is working, but barely.



So that is the normal PM stuff I plan on doing to use this truck for another 150k miles. What special 12V stuff should I be doing?

-Are there weak parts that I should be looking at?

-It is on it's original injectors, but runs fine. Should I do them?

-It appears to have a catalytic converter. Why? I ask because none of my earlier trucks had them.

-I hear it is simple to add power to these. What are the cost effective mods to do that?



Thanks!

You might want to look at the alternator and viscous drive on the radiator fan.

They seem to go about 150-200K miles.

 

[barracudabad64]

CRodi, thanks for the information as I'm going to be looking real hard at the first generation & 2nd generation 12 valve equipped trucks. Providing I don't like the 2014 1/2 ton diesel trucks. I'm thinking real hard about one of them if the price is right and I like the way they handle. I'm only pulling a 22 ft travel trailer and once in awhile my 16 ft car trailer with one of my Barracudas on it so I don't really need a 3/4 ton heavy duty truck. But wanted more than what the gas 1/2 ton trucks provide. So we will see how thing work out after the first of the year and the 1/2 tons are at the dealerships.

George

 

[CRodi]

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Dowel_Pin/tab.htm



I'm trying to improve my computer skills. If this link works it describes a fix for the dreaded Killer Dowel Pin.

 

[barracudabad64]

CRodi, Well you must be improving your skills as the link you posted worked. Thanks for sharing it. Makes it real easy to understand what and why you need to make sure you take care of that dowel pin problem. Seems like a real straight forward project and not real hard job.

Thanks
George

 

[Bernie]

The dowel pin (otherwise referred to as "Killer Dowel Pin" if you would like to do a forum search on it) is under the front timing cover of the engine. Over time in some trucks, the pin which was not secured correctly when the engine was assembled, will work loose and fall in to the timing cover. Most often, the pin will get into the timing gears and be shot out against the cover causing a split in the timing case and an oil leak. I've done several of the repairs after the cover has split and it is very time consuming, but not impossible by any means. The tab systems that have been developed, hold that pin secure so that is doesn't fall in the first place.

Do you have a link or picture? How hard is this to do?

-Cancel that, I see the link. This info is great, thanks.

 

[Bernie]

And, I bit the bullet and did the major service needed. Did most myself but ran out of time so I had a local shop do the ball joints, outer u joints, and of course alignment.



I did the steering gear box, pitman arm, steering gear box reinforcement, steering damper, all four ball joints, both front wheel bearings, track bar, alignment, new pads and rotors, new shoes and drums, new brake fluid, four new shocks, Oil change, fuel filter change, valve adjustment, valve cover gaskets, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, water pump, thermostat, upper and lower rad hoses, flushed cooling system, serp belt, belt tensioner, heater bypass hose, transmission fluid and filter, tightened the bands in the trans, changed the diff fluid, changed the T-Case fluid, new battery terminals, and replace the corroded ends on all the battery lines, replace the corded battery cross over line, and new alternator.

 

[budnate]

Bernie good job you hit the important stuff... might add cleaning all the ground wire points under the hood for good measure, and check the rubber vacuum lines for cracking under the hood and at the front 4x4 axle shift actuator.