New 3500 HO Trucks for FH and C. Carpenter

[SteelToeStilettos]

Good morning, fellas! We are back from our 1100 mile break in journey with the new rigs for First Husband and C. Carpenter. Great weather, beautiful drive from Grand Rapids, MI back to Dallas. All highway driving, kept the speed under 65 the whole way. By the time we got home, the mileage was around 22--surprised me it was so good right out of the box. This weekend, we want to change the oil and filters. Tentative plan is to go with Shell Rotella and Napa Gold...any comments on filters, boys? What are you guys doing for break-in and associated maintenance.

 

[SnoKing]

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/fleetguard-lf16035-oil-filter/oil-filters

I would wait until at least 5K for first oil change. You are wasting money doing it earlier.

 

[AH64ID]

While there is no evidence that an oil change is even needed before the 15K mark I am a believer in several early changes on new motors. My 18 got the first oil change at ~4500, then again at ~11000. I though the dealership had changed it when I bought it at 3200, but the OE gorilla filter was still on the truck when I did my first change at 4500 (I suspected the dealership didn't actually change it since the filter looked factory and oil life hadn't been reset, they probably decided to save a few bucks on a 2.5 month old used truck with 3200 miles).

On my 05 the PO changed it 3 times before 10K miles and when I did my rebuild I changed it at 500, 3K, and 6K miles before going to a regular OCI.

If I were to get a new truck today I’d probably change it after 500-2500 miles and start a normal OCI then. The modern machining that allows for no required motor breakin also means less of the matching process remains in the motor to get out, but getting rid of any assembly lube isn’t a bad idea either.

For filters the NAPA Gold is ok, but that’s it. The Fleetguard LF16035 is better and the Donaldson DBL7349 is the best, and the only one I prefer to run.

If you want to save a few buck for a shorter OCI then I’d probably get the Wix 57620XE. It’s better than the OE filter and often cheaper than the Fleetguard or Donaldson I listed above.

 

[SteelToeStilettos]

All the comments are helpful. Thank you!

 

[Cummins12V98]

I agree on the 5k oil change. I would go AMZ/OIL Signature Series and their EAo80 filter made by Donaldson. I would also get the POS gear lube out of the rear diff at that time and use AMZ/OIL SevereGear in the weight recommended.

All my Blackstone reports said I could go past the 15k changes if I wanted to. I stayed at 15 while under warranty and now that I am about to be out of warranty my next change will be at 20k. My Son ran 20k + on his 15 and they said he could go longer with same oil and filter.

I tow 34k combined for 1/3-1/2 the mileage West coast.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I guess I will be the first to say we need a pic with you in your Stiletto's standing in front of both trucks for this story to be validated.

 

[SnoKing]

I guess I will be the first to say we need a pic with you in your Stiletto's standing in front of both trucks for this story to be validated.

Yeah, we need pics!

 

[Turbo Terry]

Heck I want a picture of both trucks and carpenter and husband. Family shot

 

[gsbrockman]

#ad

 

[crispyboy]

I would also get the POS gear lube out of the rear diff at that time.

What in the world is wrong with the gear lube supplied by the manufacturer? What is wrong with off the shelf gear lube? While I don't tow as heavy as many of you I have never had a differential go bad in the past 37 years of driving vehicles using off the shelf lubricant (typically Valvoline). It is more important to change at the recommended intervals. I don't even fiddle with the bling, bling differential covers...

BTW Stilletoes - congratulations on the new trucks! - Now get the road salt off of them.

 

[Turbo Terry]

I agree. I had the Mag Hytec front and rear covers and transmission pan covers. Nice to have drain plugs and dip sticks but for $750. Not me or my money again

 

[AH64ID]

The factory gear lube has been known to be bad for the last decade or thou, but complaints are dropping with the 19+ axles. It’s just a cheap fluid that doesn’t last long, so short that Ram issues an informational TSB on changing it at 20K miles for most users due to complaints and warranty calls.

 

[gsbrockman]

The factory gear lube has been known to be bad for the last decade or thou, but complaints are dropping with the 19+ axles. It’s just a cheap fluid that doesn’t last long, so short that Ram issues an informational TSB on changing it at 20K miles for most users due to complaints and warranty calls.

In all actuality.....do you think any other brand of differential fluid would still get a bad rap on the initial fill?

I sometimes think that there’s so much “breaking in” going on that any fluid is gonna look bad that first change...especially with some of the grease that has been speculated to have been used during the assembly process.

 

[AH64ID]

In all actuality.....do you think any other brand of differential fluid would still get a bad rap on the initial fill?

I sometimes think that there’s so much “breaking in” going on that any fluid is gonna look bad that first change...especially with some of the grease that has been speculated to have been used during the assembly process.

Very true, but I’ve changed a lot of gear lube over the years and what came out of my 18 at 15K miles was the nastiest fluid I’ve ever changed, aside from failed diffs.

Change it early still gets my vote, just like engine oil.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Do a search as there are plenty of issues with the OE diff lube. Towing taking off and turning having the rear feel like it's in 4WD. I did leave mine in a bit longer than I should have and the Blackstone report came back bad.

 

[Cummins12V98]

SnoKing I was trying to subtle and you took it from 0-100!!!

 

[Ozymandias]

In all actuality.....do you think any other brand of differential fluid would still get a bad rap on the initial fill? I sometimes think that there’s so much “breaking in” going on that any fluid is gonna look bad that first change...especially with some of the grease that has been speculated to have been used during the assembly process.

Exactly what I wanted to write too, any gear fluid looks bad after the wear in phase. That doesn't mean it lost its properties through that, it just looks bad.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Exactly what I wanted to write too, any gear fluid looks bad after the wear in phase. That doesn't mean it lost its properties through that, it just looks bad.

mine was TOAST at 18k

 

[sag2]

I changed mine at 20k and sent in a sample. It came back pretty bad, so I drank Ron's Kool-Aid and ordered the Amsoil fluids for both diff's, transmission and transfer case. I'm at 47k now and changed it again a couple months ago but didn't send in a sample. It looked better than the Mopar. Just ordered another batch of Amsoil and another filter package from Geno's.

 

[SteelToeStilettos]

We will work on the family glamour shot! Great idear. We got lucky with the salt. Our trip north to pick up the trucks gave us good weather from Dallas, till we crossed into Indiana and Michigan. When we were within 1 hour of the Michigan dealer, a little bit of snow and sleet erupted, and out came the salt and sand trucks. I thought--CRAP!!! Brand new trucks, first time out on the road right out of the box and we have a salt bath. Capital GRRRRRRRRRR! You've got your grrrrrrrrr, then there is Capital GRRRRRRR! We got delayed at the dealer a bit, so we got lucky when we left 3 hours later that the roads dried up. Bottom line, we managed to escape the salt entirely, heading back to central Illinois that same evening, and lovely weather for the rest of the trip back to Dallas. We gripped our saddles for dear life coming back through Oklahoma on Route 69--horrible horrible road, but good weather. Cummins Elizabeth (Patriot Blue Longhorn for C. Carpenter) and Granite Limited (F. Husband's ride) both need a nice bath...on the list for today if temps warm up here. Been very cool in Dallas.