New 5th gear nut is here, now what?

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5th. hasn't failed yet..... but I ordered and received a new nut from Standard Transmission in Fort Worth Tx. It's in a little ziplock package with a small tube of locktite (dosen't look like enough), two set screws, two small brass plugs to go under the set screws and a new washer.

Now that I have the nut, I see why a special socket is required for installation. If anyone has a socket for a 4whl. drive application they would like to sell, rent or loan, please let me know. My plans are to take tdrmember's advise and stake the nut into the threads several times when I do the upgrade. Any additional advice is welcome.

Thanks, Ronnie


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"95" 3500, 4WHD, Ext cab. SLT, 5 spd, 4. 10 LSD, Rancho 9000's PacBrake, running boards, Mopar mud flaps, Isspro EGT, 50lb. boost, TST #8, 215HP injectors,no cat, muff or turbo ring.

[This message has been edited by moparguy (edited 09-24-2000). ]

 

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@ the Texas Rally Dr. Joe Donnelly showed us a failed NV4500 mainshaft. He also told us about a replacement mainshaft available from Standard Transmission which corrects the design flaw in the original shaft. If mine ever fails, I think I'll replace the shaft along with the gear,nut,& pilot bearing- Dr. Joe recommended a bronze bushing in place of the needle bearing.

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Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Semi-Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring & muffler stolen.

 

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I just got the latest greatest from DC, and it does not have set screws, but a cross bolt instead. The one shown on Fritz's site also shows a cross bolt.

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Paul A. Schmidt
95, 4X4, SLT 2500, 5 spd. , 4. 10, 270 hp. ,675ft. lb. TST, AFC spring kit,215hp. injectors,16cm2 turbo housing, Pacbrake, Walker muffler,
GearVendor O. D. , CenterForce Dual Friction clutch.
Eastern PA.

 

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Ronnie:

My last 5th gear repair on the original 96 transmission was the same nut as your describe. I had the new revised gear put on at the same time. It lasted about 40K miles. This trans was pulled very hard in 5th 99% of the time. I replace with new 2000 5 speed trans.

I would stake the nut as tdrmember describes. The setscrewws and brass will not do the job. I would also use the loctite. I think this nut is probably as good as the current split nut. How it is installed and staked is probably going to make the difference (as well as how hard and how much HP is pushed through it)

jjw
ND

 

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When the bronze bushing fails send me a com-check for $40. plus next day charge on sat nite and i will send you a bushing that will last--or you can call South Bend Clutch on Monday morning and they can ship one to you for the same amount plus shipping.
A bit of history--when the cummins went into the early dodge p/u with the gut rag transmission it to had a bronze bushing and if it had of worked then would they have ever went to the needle bearing with a wire cage??????????? NOT !!!!!!!!!!!

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.

 

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Let me clarify a bit here. I am using the stock needle pilot bearing, and if the input is still smooth and you don't ride the clutch at stoplights, etc. it should be fine. Don't lube the bronze bushing if you use it, and it may help if the input is worn. Oilite bronze is self lubricating. Std. Trans. of Fort Worth prefers the bronze bushing. My concerns about the South Bend bushing are mostly about getting the flywheel bored correctly. Beyond those comments, I don't feel that I can make any definitive recommendations.

The Std. Trans 5th gear nut seems to be better than the new split Mopar unit but making either work depends on the fully splined shaft upgrade, lots of Loctite 272 on cleaned parts (Mopar non chlorinated brake cleaner is best), and lots of torque. Staking the nut helps too. Std. Trans. likes to stake into the notch in their fully splined mainshaft and to trim threads with a die grinder 180 degrees from that notch so they cn stake there too. It's hard to do with their nut--its much harder than the Mopar nuts--they use an air chisel.

I spent time with them while in Tx and watched them build a NV4500. I hope to have the story in the TDR probably in Issue 31.

 

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The pinch bolt though the nut fix seems like it should work,or does it have the potential to do more damage if it fails?Anyone have one fail yet?

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 10-04-2000). ]