New Ball Joints and rear seals at 70000?

[NBigelow]

I recently took my truck to the dealer because I have a random vibration in the steering if I hit a bump that feels like a tire seperated. If i take my foot off the accelerator it stops. Dealer said upper and Lower Ball joints need replaced and the steering damper is bad. It really doesn't look like the ball joints are bad but they wanted $1200 to replace them Ouch! and $211 for the Damper

I told them leave it. I'm going to replace the damper for $45 and see if it stops.

Also they said needed new rear pads and they like to replace the bearing and repack it. I have 70000 miles on it. Any opinions on if they think I need new bearings and repack. I do a lot of towing. Does anyone think I should need new ball joints at that mileage.

Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks

 

[DPKetchum]

Plenty of posts on ball joints! Use the SEARCH function and should be plenty of reading.

 

[PBrauer]

If it's a rythmic "wobble", like a severly out of balance tire, it's probably a u-joint.



Before you replace anything, try pulling the front drive shaft to see how that affects the symptom(s). Good chance the "single" u-joint is bad. It is by far the cheapest and easiest one to replace. Next most likely problem is one or both of the front axle u-joints. All three of these tend to go bad before 100K so it would be the least painful to replace them yet not solve the problem. The DC joint in the front drive shaft seems to last much longer. It will probably outlast the "single" by 2-3 times the mileage.



If you move on to the axle u-joints they can take a much closer look at the ball joints while it's apart (hubs off). One or even two "upper" joints would be reasonable, although it's awful early. Replacing all four is definately a sign that they're guessing. Getting the front hubs off the first time can be a royal PIA so you could give them a little "benefit of the doubt" for suggesting all four. If they "anti-sieze" the stub shaft it'll be much easier to get them off the next time...



Virtually all of the u-joints these days, including the rear drive shaft joints, can be bad but still feel very "tight" when checked by hand. Even someone with a fair amount of experience and skill can't really tell when they start going bad. If the wobble in the steering wheel goes away but you can still feel it "shaking" elsewhere then move on to the two rear most u-joints on the rear drive shaft. Keep in mind that the it may have taken more than one joint starting to go bad to cause your "current" symptom.



I would wait to replace the stabilizer. It can't "cause" the problem, only fail to "hide" it. A new one might make it seem to go away for a while but you'll just wear it out early anyway if something else is shaking.

 

[MRosinski]

Re-pack which bearings?? Fronts are sealed unit bearings, rears are oil bath bearings..... I did have to replace my rear inner hub seal at 60,xxx miles cause it was leaking gear oil onto the brake. At 64,xxx miles my ball joints are pretty bad.

 

[NBigelow]

They said rear bearings. They said no indication that they were bad they just would want to while the replace the brake pads.

 

[DBohl]

I would start with the front axle U joints, it's a common failure. I replaced both of mine after one went bad at 52K. Living in AZ you should'nt have too much trouble getting them apart. Mine where a real bear, but that comes with living in the rust belt. Doug

 

[Mobius1]

I have had all 4 replaced at 43k. 6k miles later the uppers went bad and dealer replaced them again. I would consider myself lucky the OE balljoints lasted that long.

 

[basilry]

Iv replaced every u joint on my truck and had the upper and lower ball joints and front brake pads replaced at 70,??? miles. Uppers were the bad ones and while everything was apart I just had the lowers done so I wouldent have to worry about more down time. I do plow heavily with the truck so Im sure that made matters worse.

 

[NBigelow]

Well I guess when I put the new brakes on this weekend I can get a good look for myself and see what's going on. Thanks a lot on the input. I'll let you all know.

 

[Burner]

Why doesn't DC make some we can grease? Wouldn't these parts last longer if we could grease them?

 

[pullya]

If you replace the brakes, DON'T buy the "value line" brake pads that Dodge sells. I've never seen so much brake dust in my life. Your wheels will be coated with dust within a matter of less than 100 miles of normal driving and stopping. They are JUNK. I also had a "vibration" in the front end of my truck recently, the famous "Death Wobble". Replaced the upper and lower bushings, all the ball joints, the trac bar, the steering damper and the steering box and I'm still not sure it is cured. If you want some scary reading just search "Death Wobble". You'll be reading for days.

Jay

 

[Burner]

I think you missed the wheel bearings. The cage is plastic and I'm not sure that a little heat or bad bump could distor them.