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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) New clutch time (throw out bearing or bushing)?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) ATS intake with rusted bolts!

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 435,000 miles...

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so i am changing the clutch in my 01 dodge 6 speed that i am up dating to a stage 2 clutch a hp rating of 400-500 or 550 and i have some questions maybe some of you can answer for me in the bell housing there is a nylon ball that the throwout plate pivots on it has 202k on it is there any reason to replace that?, and when i pulled it apart the flywheel had a needle bearing in it and the clutch kit came with a new needle bearing and a bushing which should i use?



and i am also replacing all seals rear main, output shaft on transmission, shaft on transmission, and the 2 outputs on the transmission so i drained the transfer case but i don't know whether or not to drain the transmission cause the synthetic oil i do belive is expensive but there is that saying do it right or dont do it at all!
 
You are talking about the pilot, not throw out bearing. I personally like the bearing approach. Inspect the release arm good, especially where the throw out bearing rides. It will show wear and needs to go. Not an expensive item considering all else you are doing. The pivot ball is also a wear item.
 
yeah sorry about that yes the pilot pushing or bearing i my self kinda like the idea of the pilot bearing instead and hsmith my release are has a little wear on it you can feel a little bit of an edge is all is that isn't enough to worry about is it?
 
Brett,



The release fork has 3 contact points. Slave cylinder pushrod, bearing contact ARC and pivot ball socket. Smooth radius = smooth clutch pedal action. The ARC started off as a smooth radius and with wear turns into a bit of a flat spot. If this gets pronounced then as you push on the pedal it might be possible to feel a transition as the contact shifts from the inside edge of the flat to the outer edge. We have replaced several ball studs and forks and one day it went pretty bad. Kinda of a new guy experience, no it wasn't me THIS TIME, ball stud didn't budge, put breaker bar on it, ball stud snapped off. OOPPS!!!!!! Worst was we were working on a magazine article, had the author here with camera snapping. Took me about 30-45 minutes to CAREFULLY drill out the remains and chase it. Worked just fine, didn't booger the case and all ended well. Use caution on the pivot ball.



You can extend the life of any pilot bearing or bushing if you put it in N at lights for example. The crank and input shaft are at the same speed, the clock stops on the pilot, wear is minimized.



Good luck.
 
There are heavy duty pilot bearings that in my opinion are superior to the wimpy needle bearing or bushing design. When I replaced my clutch at around 160k, the stock needle bearing was dry and in bad shape, but the Luk clutch could have made it a while longer.



As far as changing oil, it all depends on it's condition (how many miles, what type of use, time in service, etc. ). Oil is cheap compared to your transmission. You can always get an oil analysis done if it means that much to you.
 
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