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New clutch

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The UPS mechanic would drill a hole in the throw out bearing cast iron slider on the side that he was going to attach the grease tube on. He would take a zirk fitting and knock the check ball out of it. The zirk was threaded into the slider. He would then attach the small 1/4" ID hose to the zirk mounted on the slider and secure it with a strong zip tie. He then ran the hose to where it was accessible and at the end of the hose, He attached another zirk fitting. When I was there driving for UPS, we ran primarily 300ci Ford 6 cyls with NP435, 4 speeds anf GMC 292 6 cyls. Never had a stiff clutch.
 
MH,

You are addressing a big issue that is frequently overlooked or incorrectly administered. Do you grease the collar and guide tube, or not? These cast iron bearings on a steel guide tube NEED GREASED! IF you're in the business, you'll see the result of not greasing it and if your driving one your left leg will be a bit stouter. Some versions of that old Ford bearing were true thrust bearings with a zerk already on them. But these were mostly for mechanical adjusted systems WITH the big inspection plate under the clutch housing. In general, any metal to metal gets greased, any non metallic that has straight rifling grooves, no grease. Non metallic but has an annular grease groove, lube it.
 
My installs are greased. The replacement T.O. bearing from South Bend has the annular grove in it. The reason for adding the zirk tube would be when the grease wipes away or dries up from clutch dust. In our usage, the T.O. bearing might only need to be greased once or twice through out the clutch service life.
 
I have single disc organic clutch in my 2500 and a dual disc organic in my 3500, both SBC. I had the factory hydraulics quit on my 03 2500 with 210,000 miles on it. The fastest way to get new hydraulics was from Harry at Peak Diesel. I had less pedal effort with the SBC hydraulics. My 3500 with the dual disc doesn't shift the best and takes a lot of pedal effort. The truck isn't far off of 200,000 miles so I figured I'd put the SBC hydraulics in it on my schedule. Hopefully it takes less pedal effort and shifts better. The clutch in the truck never worked right with a stock replacement LUK clutch either. Maybe the hydraulics were the problem. I'll find out soon enough.

I tried to to look at getting a Valair clutch as people speak highly of them as well but they were nowhere near the price of a SBC clutch here in Canada.
 
My installs are greased. The replacement T.O. bearing from South Bend has the annular grove in it. The reason for adding the zirk tube would be when the grease wipes away or dries up from clutch dust. In our usage, the T.O. bearing might only need to be greased once or twice through out the clutch service life.
A lot of truth in this post. I also LIGHTLY grease the T/O bearing tube/front retainer, with white grease. For cars and light trucks, that should last the life of the clutch. But I also did the same for all of the Army Deuce and a half (2 1/2 Ton) trucks when coupling the trans to the engine, and after two years, were too many to count. I was trained early in my life (16 years old) when doing a clutch job, to grease the front retainer tube with white grease due to the properties of the white grease, that does not break down as easily as bearing grease, oozing oil into the clutch material.
 
Pilot bearing will usually fail about same time frame as the release bearing. If only the NV5600 input shaft was as easy to change as on a Class8 Fuller.
 
I decided not to install a grease fitting, when I took the transmission out the old t/o bearing was slidiing on the shaft pretty easy,but the t/o bearing was in pieces. The only part left on the shaft was the inner and outer bearing ring and the part that slides on the shaft. If there was a way to get grease to the bearing itself that would make a big difference.
 
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