New Clutch?

[DSmith1]

Well, just over 1000 miles with my DD2's and power puck when the clutch started slipping. Pulling boat 5k up small grade in 5th gear accelerating (pulled out on to highway). It then happened later under similar circumstances. I will try to baby it for a while until some money can be saved, but this leads me to a question for you guys. My truck in 5th sometimes and 6th a lot will feel like it is bucking/jerking under anything more than 1/2 throttle (towing mostly). Is this related to clutch or something more? Every so often I can accelerate without it doing it, but if I get into it at all the bucking occurs. Normal? Clutch? Help?





Thanks in advance,



Dean

 

[mbrolin]

Now I know I will get a lot of flack for saying this. The stock clutch with the 6spd will last well into the 100k mile range. This is while even pulling max loads. With a stock engine! I get tired of hearing that the clutch is no good on these trucks. I would suspect that because of the extra HP and torque that your clutch is in fact slipping.

 

[DSmith1]

I wasn't claiming that the clutch is bad! That is why I said 1000 mile after the DD2's and power puck. I knew it was a gamble and I lost. Now for $1000+ I will have an expensive lesson. I still wonder what could be causing the bucking effect when towing. I guess this doesn't happen to anyone but me.



Dean

 

[Floor It]

There has been some problems with some of the clutchs in the ETH's,due to the fact that some of them had different clutch disk materials,stated by peter at SBC. If I had to guess your bucking is from the clutch,grabbing and releasing would cause the bucking. New clutch time.

 

[South Bend Clutch]

Michael Brolin



I would definately have to agree with you that the 6sp clutches for the ETH are awesome!! Properly driven these clutches will last past 100,000 miles. You're right, the problem with slipping normally only comes when the horse power is inhanced. Because this clutch is a great setup is precisely why we only have to tweek the OEM clutch to handle the higher horse power.



Peter

 

[Todd T]

the bucking and jerking is your driveline and the engine fighting each other. the 24v trucks have a "governor circuit" on them that is to keep the engine running ". " the driveline has some give to it. motor mounts, transmission mounts, and then there is some considerable wrapping that can occur at the rear springs, on a 4x4 the blocks make an awesome lever, for those long springs. The combination of all this makes the truck buck and jerk if you are at a light to moderate throttle (loaded or not) imagine the driveline torqueing one direction and then unloading again. But while its in the middle of that the computer says “I’m dying, give me more throttle” and it jerks back the other way. then the computer says “we’re speeding up, let off” and it all starts over.



you will notice, as you add more power to the truck the bucking tends to get worse. Ask anyone that has a Power Max Comp, what it does on level 7-9 when they let off. The second or is it third? Problem is the throttle is very sensitive to slight movements. So once you start bucking your foot adds to it by bouncing on and off the throttle. I have looked into chaining the motor into the frame but I cannot find a suitable place that will not break the block. Another fix would be to make the engine mounts out of a harder material.



You’re clutch could last you a long time. I nursed mine for 33,000 miles before “coming to Jesus” and putting in the South Bend clutch.



Oh BTW South Bend Rocks!



sorry so long, its early.

 

[Texas Diesel]

Trust me on this, the slipping WILL get worse!! Ask how I know...

Get a SBC CON FE, no slipping and as easy as the OEM to release and no chatter. . It also releases about half way down rather than at the top as before. I used a DC OEM needle bearing in mine. Also I have a vacuum switch (for 2 lo ) mounted to my gear shift lever which used to buzz annoyingly before but is silent since the new clutch, I have to assume the SBC pressure plate is better balanced.

 

[DSmith1]

Thanks! I guess January appears to be a clutch replacing month based on my finances. Peter (Southbend) gave the cost and recommendation of which kit to purchase. Now to find who in N. C. to install it. Thank you for all of your responses.



Dean

 

[1BIG44]

I hate to say it

I gave you fair warning about the clutch. So get in line behind me for the SB Con OFE. I have found a couple of places to do the install, in case I don't have the time or help to do it myself. I plan on running this one for a few more months, hopefully. If you make it down to Jacksonville we can discuss it.



Wes

 

[AYSCII]

Hey Folks, I'm slippin' in Durham, NC also. Maybe we can get a group deal on the work at a shop. Dean, Wes, do you know of a good shop to do the work? What kind of price tag do I need to prepare for? I have a 98. 5 24v with the 5 speed. DD Stage II's and a EZ Comp have made the clutch start to loose it's grip. I'll gladly travel to a good shop.



Thanks,

Steve Ayscue

-- email address removed --

 

[1BIG44]

Steve,



There is a shop in Raleigh that put in a SBC for a local guy. Says it will cost about 3 bills + 35 to resurface flywheel. Maybe we could work out a 3 for deal with him. How soon are you guys looking to do this?



Let me know



Wes

 

[AYSCII]

The slipping is manageable on mine if I stay off the go pedal in the higher EZ Comp settings. It is something I want to fix but no hurry just yet. What is the name of the shop in Raleigh that did the SB Clutch install?

 

[1BIG44]

Steve



I've got the name and number somewhere I'll find it and get it to you. It is a transmission shop close to downtown Raleigh.



Wes

 

[1BIG44]

Ok guys I talked the shop. Eastern Transmission in Raleigh. I asked about a 3 for deal, so they told me talk to the owner. He said NO WAY and hung up on me. I called the SOB back and got some answers, he won't work on the "heavy Trucks" says he lost his tailend on the one SBC that he did. Claims it took him 2 days. I told him if it takes him 2 days to do a clutch, I wouldn't trust him to wash my truck.



I checked with two other places both were 300-350. Do either of you have any suggestions?



Sorry



Wes

 

[South Bend Clutch]

1BIG44



WOW!!!



Sorry to here about that guy. Sounds like a real rooky. The folks around here after the 1st install got the job down to a little over 2 hours for two wheel and a little under 3 hours for 4 wheel. Look for a reputable trans. shop or better yet there has to be a diesel shop in the area that could tackel the job without a problem. If you need anymore assistance call me and I will see what I can do to find a good place at a discounted price. I know a few people in the Carolina area that could possible help in this matter.



Peter

 

[Wiredawg]

Go Easy Accelerating Under Load

Gents:



I have 275s, TST PM-3 adjustable and 6 spd. Dyno'd 315 Hp and 765 Ft lbs TQ. I tow a 15K lb 5th wheel and have to turn power setting down to 6. You really need to reve the motor to around 2500 and step easy into the go pedal. I started smoking my clutch while towing once thinking giving lots of fuel will really speed accelerations rate. Negatory! Smoked her a second running empty when I floored her in 5th while racing a Ferd. Tach was going faster, speedo wasn't.



Short of it, stock clutch will last if you don't over accelerate under load or race.



BTW: I have a SBC ready for install later on. Need to invite my Mason-Dixon TDR buddies over for a barbeque/clutch changing.



Happy Trails all



Wiredawg

 

[1BIG44]

Wiredawg



If I couldn't make no more than 315 hp I wouldn't have a problem either

It's just when you guys get in my way that the clutch gives.



Just messing with you. Which clutch did you go with? When you have to throw that baby in let us know, I'll certainly be there.



Wes

 

[Wiredawg]

Hey 1BIG44:



Peter recommended the MU 0090 Con O. Ordered after smoking clutch racing the Ferd. Had 'em to 'til clutch started slipping and smoking.



I drove 5er to Texas and back and didn't have any problems. Might be a project over Christmas Holidays, unless my stack clutch continues to hold.



I know I'll never be able to run with the Big Dawgs, like Hammer and Mopar-Mucsle, but there's still plenty of Ferds/Chebies for me to whoop.



See ya, Wiredawg

 

[DSmith1]

Wes,



There is a diesel shop in St. Pauls that has the Cummins and Volvo sign up. It is a huge place off I95 that has only been there for about three years. I could call them and see what they have to say. I will let you know what I find out, plus there is trucking company in the area that I know the owner who may be able to help us. They have there own mechanics but he may be able to work something out for us.



Another topic! I just hooked up the lights to my gauges and the Westach Fuel gauge is no where close to as bright as my combo EGT/boost gauge. Is this normal? I have wired the lights up on seperate lighted switches so that I can turn them on and off at will. This way sitting at the light everyone in the world doesn't know a little bombing has been going on with my truck. If someone wants to play, I just flip the lights to the gauges on or if I am towing at night.



Dean