New Cummins Owner on the Block...

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Howdy! In Mar '99, I traded in my '99 F250 SD for a New '98 with 12v Cummins that was sitting on the lot... ended up being someone elses special order that went sour... I bought it because I ended up wanting a truck that was dependable w/4WD... with engine #1 priority... P*&s on Powerstroke... anyway, I really didn't know what I had until I checked out this sight... best of both worlds I think... upgraded interior and the 12v Cummins... ended up signing up after reviewing the site and was sold... I spent the next week reviewing the archives and then lost my silencer ring... bought the hardware for the TC lock-out and am waiting for the money for a tire-wheel package from Rickson... hail damage to the truck is resulting in a complete paint and body work for the Comp. ded. ($100)... Paint shop promises three coats of clear coat... But I will ask for more. But, I still have a few questions:
1. What can I expect from kicking the "CAT" to the curb and running straight pipe? My muffler is already rattlin (since 20K) and needs replacing with ???
2. As far as the transmission (see sig. ), What gives? I guess I'm suckin if I want more than 650 lbs torque... what do y'all recommend as far as torque plate mod with current set-up???
3. Air Supply... any insite? I current am running stock... I do a lot of highway miles and tow once in a while (about 7000lbs)
4. My mileage is pretty good (16-18mpg) with 33. 6" tires and 4. 10 gearing... does it get any better (with 4WD & little towing)?
5. I learned (and hope I am right) that Dodge only puts one coat of clearcoat with the factory paint... makes for a weak paint job... how many is enough??? Need to know before 01 Oct)
6. 19. 5" Wheel package from Rickson... looking at Michelin M/S w/19. 5 x 6. 75" wheels... any feedback?? (stock Goodyear lasted 11 months/29K miles... Dunlaps holding strong with 21K, but will not last another six months... )
Sorry this post was so long... but I have so may questions... Thanks y'all

Rob




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Rob's 98 Ram2500 SLT RegCab 4X4 12-valve Cummins, Automatic, 4. 10 Axle w/ Lim-Slip, Trailer Tow Pack, 255/85R16 Dunlop Radial Mud Rovers... Silencer Ring disappeared; TC lockup switch, CAT removal, and decent paint next... . 50,000 miles; Wife's 99 Ram1500 SLT QC 4X4 w/360 eng, Automatic, Trailer Tow Pack; STOCKER! 38,000 miles - both daily drivers. If your STROKIN, your CHOKIN... on CUMMINS smoke!!!

 

[Archive]

Yuppie Redneck Welcome I'll try to answer a few questions for you.
1. Cat seems to plug up with Diesel soot. Removing it and muffler will decrease back pressure. Allowing air/fuel to enter opposite side faster. Replacements check archives.
2. Bombers need to answer this one or check archives.
3. K&N filter all the way to Physchotty air system. Check archives for details,pictures and spelling.
4. Use of 4wd or towing should get you a less mileage.
5. A couple of extra coats of paint would help along with your 3 clear coats. I believe I read where you get one coat of clear with factory job.
6. 19. 5's should get better miles out of them. The bigger diameter will keep them cooler. I got 67,000 out ot my Goodyears ST (factory). Mileage out of the factory tires have been different for all members.
7. Check archives use "search" link, type in subject. Should get a whole lot of post on all subjects.


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Missouri Mule 96 White 4X4 ST club cab,(grey int. ),5 spd, 3. 54 reg dif, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards, front and side of bed,Pofile V bug shield,
99 Freight liner FL60 blue Cummins 24v 215 hp, 520 torgue,6 spd 3. 59 no spin rear, 16 ft dry box (white) 19. 5 low profile tires,Weight 11,000, gvw 23000, 11 to 12 mpg
Bill Thomas (Wild Bill)

 

[Archive]

As you can see my rig(96) is 4x4 but 350. I have tst #5 cam plate-up from #8 and larger injectors. I believe I am at the limit of fuel with the stock turbo housing as egt's are close to max. You can have as much power and torque as your wallet can stand. I use K&N filter and stock intake. I have found out (as reported in the TDR) that the 80/20 rule is 100% accurate. It doesn't cost that much to get to 300hp but will take wheelbarrow full of money to get to 400hp. I have had no luck with 16" tires lasting either- no brand lasts more than 35,000 miles-but its a major expense to add 19. 5 wheels and tires-I can't wear out that many 16" tires (evan though I use 6 at a time) to make them worthwhile. Remember that the more power you make the engine produce be prepared to beef up transmission-they will not last long with 250-300 hp and a ton of torque.

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1996-3500 tst #5 plate, K&N air filter,Primeloc fuel filter kit,4" exhaust,bigger injectors,b&m trans pan,Amsoil all around,temp gauges out the wazzo,much trans work,double tow 33' 5th wheel and 12' trailer w/motorcycle(Honda Valkyarie Interstate)Also have 1999-2500-stock. Transfer-flow 98 gal bed tank on order.

 

[Archive]

Wild Bill... Guess I had two beer cans in my hands when I was talking about the paint... the local shop is going to put three coats of paint and three coats of clearcoat... just wondering if more layers of paint/clearcoat would be worth the money...
And as far as 4WD/Towing, yeh, I know when I am in 4WD or towing, my mileage will drop... just wondering about the extra weight of front axle & transfer case empty and higher center of gravity as far as having a 4WD truck or how towing would effect MPG on my current setup vs. 19. 5s. I have studied the Rickson brochure and have deduced that I may be good to go with current setup... I really don't like the fact that I have to settle for a steel wheel/powdercoat (the paint will eventually come off) and S. Steel simulators w/tires for around $2800 (w/spare). Just can't see the money being worth it for a tire that might last me 100k plus 50k for a recap (rears only??)
Thanks for the response.


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Rob's 98 Ram2500 SLT RegCab 4X4 12-valve Cummins, Automatic, 4. 10 Axle w/ Lim-Slip, Trailer Tow Pack, 255/85R16 Dunlop Radial Mud Rovers... Silencer Ring disappeared; TC lockup switch, CAT removal, and decent paint next... . 50,000 miles; Wife's 99 Ram1500 SLT QC 4X4 w/360 eng, Automatic, Trailer Tow Pack; STOCKER! 38,000 miles - both daily drivers. If your STROKIN, your CHOKIN... on CUMMINS smoke!!!

[This message has been edited by Yuppie Redneck (edited 09-23-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by Yuppie Redneck (edited 09-24-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Yuppie Redneck My errors are usually caused by lack of sleep.
3x3 on paint sounds good. I as I recall on 68 Opel sw I had painted. Had oringinal paint(enamel),primer and 3 coats of Lacquer When the paint got nicked it was hard to touch up. Have the paint shop give you a small container of paint, no thinner in it. You can apply with back of match stick(cardboard one). Pre-mix touch up paint is to thin. Hope fully you never get nick or ding.
If you have 4wd and are towning mileage should be same percentage loss as 2wd towing same weight. Actually I think it would be better. Your 4wd(axle,dif) will keep front end lower and on ground. The higher your front end points toward sky the less mileage you will get and less traction. I have experimented with pulling 5'x10' utility trailer loaded with produce(truck loaded also). I was loading it like I did my 88 ford van. Front end was to high changed where I put certain items, brought the front end down gained mileage and road control with load.
You should get better tire wear with 19. 5s because of cooling difference. I would think
150,000 with re-grooving and a more with re-treading. But the cost of rims and tires mite not be worth it. I would check signatures from the post if someone has 19. 5 send them a e-mail. On my liner at 40,000 looks kike a long time before they wear out but I,m running road(highway) tires.