Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) New Fuel Pressure Gauge, No Start

[JTitone]

I just installed an ISSPRO mechanical fuel pressure gauge. Now, the truck won't start. First thing I did after I received the kit was to get rid of everything but the gauge. I installed an elbow off the plug nearest to the center nut of the fuel filter assembly with a shut off. Then I ran 1/4" hydraulic hose from the shut off directly to the new gauge in the cab. I filled the hose with fuel prior to attempting to start. It cranked over but wouldn't start. I cracked both the input and output fittings on the fuel filter to clear any air but it still wouldn't start. The good news is with the original lift pump running the fuel pressure shows 15#. Any suggestions out there on getting this rig started?



Jim T.

1998. 5, 24V, 2wd, SLT Quad Cab. MBRP S/S exaust

 

[Mishkaya]

I just installed an ISSPRO mechanical fuel pressure gauge. Now, the truck won't start. First thing I did after I received the kit was to get rid of everything but the gauge. I installed an elbow off the plug nearest to the center nut of the fuel filter assembly with a shut off. Then I ran 1/4" hydraulic hose from the shut off directly to the new gauge in the cab. I filled the hose with fuel prior to attempting to start. It cranked over but wouldn't start. I cracked both the input and output fittings on the fuel filter to clear any air but it still wouldn't start. The good news is with the original lift pump running the fuel pressure shows 15#. Any suggestions out there on getting this rig started?



Jim T.

1998. 5, 24V, 2wd, SLT Quad Cab. MBRP S/S exaust

Not to be insulting, but are you sure you have fuel to the VP44? Have you checked at the schrader valve? Got to eliminate the obvious first. Also, while messing around in there, did you disconnect any harnesses or such? It doesn't always take much to get a bad connection somewhere.

Good luck

mishkaya

 

[JTitone]

Hello Mishkaya. I'm not insulted at all. As I'm new to the Dodge diesel I'm interested in any advise I can get. I did not check the fuel flow to the VP44. I just thought that if fuel flowed freely from the fitting leading to the injection pump that I should be good to go. As to electrical connections, I didn't disconnect any harnesses. I'm not sure if I disturbed any wiring during my project, but I don't see any in the area where I worked.

Thanks for the reply.

Jim T.

 

[GKruzich]

Crack a couple injector lines and run the pump. I was told not to be afraid to crank on it a bit and that was the only way I could get mine to fire.

 

[Mishkaya]

Crack a couple injector lines and run the pump. I was told not to be afraid to crank on it a bit and that was the only way I could get mine to fire.

GKurzich has it right, try bleeding the lines to see if that gets it going. In theory though adding a pressure gauge shouldn't have let enough air in the lines to be a problem. If that doesn't help, try changing the fuel relay with the horn relay in case it's the culprit.

mishkaya

 

[Harlacher]

Doesn't take much air in the system to cause a no start problem. John Deere has an automatic bleeder in their systems. I don't know how it works but it would be nice on these trucks.

 

[Geno's Garage]

Doesn't take much air in the system to cause a no start problem. John Deere has an automatic bleeder in their systems. I don't know how it works but it would be nice on these trucks.

The 24-valve Dodge CTDs do have an automatic bleeding function. By turning the key to start, without starting the vehicle, and letting the key rest in the run position, the stock lift-pump will run for 20-25 secs, pushing air through the return valve in the VP-44.



Unless you remove and reinstall/replace an injection pump, injector(s), or fuel line(s) from the injection pump to the injector(s), there should be no need to "crack" an injector line to bleed air from the supply side if the injection pump. This assumes both pumps are working correctly.



Hope this helps.



~Andy

 

[hsmith]

Good luck with those gauges. I have gone through 2 and both leaked at the bezel. Not running one now.

 

[Geno's Garage]

Good luck with those gauges. I have gone through 2 and both leaked at the bezel. Not running one now.

Aside from the obvious safety reasons, that is one of the main reasons why the gauges are sold with isolators, to keep the diesel from entering the gauge and destroying it.



~Andy

 

[Pliska]

Good luck with those gauges. I have gone through 2 and both leaked at the bezel. Not running one now.

What do you mean by leaking at the bezel? Was fuel leaking out? Did you return them?



Regards,

Michael Pliska

 

[JTitone]

Thank you all for viewing my post and the advice you've provided. I can tell you that there are no leaks in the new line I ran from the plug on the top of the filter housing, to the gauge itself. I was under the impression that this model dodge had self bleeding capability when you turned on the key to run the pump. After I ran the pump I then attempted to start the engine but with no start, I then first cracked the fitting for fuel entering the filter housing. There was some air but fuel flowed quickly thereafter. I then ran the pump again and cracked the fitting with fuel leaving the filter housing again there was air followed by free flowing fuel. Then I cracked the other cap plug on the filter housing and got lots of air before the fuel flow. After this I thought I'd be good to go but it just cranked over with no start. Unfortunately, the truck is sitting outside in the driveway and we're getting a decent Nor'easter with lots of rain and wind. This is supposed to go till Sunday. Not sure when I'll get under the hood again.



Jim T

 

[hsmith]

Yes, both leaked fuel at the bezel. First one was a 30# gauge and it would peg, so I thought I screwed up by not buying the right one. Second one, 60# gauge did the same thing real soon after install. Both were with the snubber really choked down so there was no pulsation at all. Also both caused a hard start naturally so. Did not return either, but may still do so. Also did not use the pulsator that came with them so that probably voided the warranty. However, I think they would have leaked antifreeze if I had used it.

 

[EricBu12]

crack #1 and #3 line AT the injector... Crank a bit, then tighten... Do this and it should start

 

[hsmith]

A couple of years ago, I did have one that with a routine filter change, the lift pump would not pick up prime again and had to be replaced before it would start.

 

[Pliska]

Yes, both leaked fuel at the bezel. First one was a 30# gauge and it would peg, so I thought I screwed up by not buying the right one. Second one, 60# gauge did the same thing real soon after install. Both were with the snubber really choked down so there was no pulsation at all. Also both caused a hard start naturally so. Did not return either, but may still do so. Also did not use the pulsator that came with them so that probably voided the warranty. However, I think they would have leaked antifreeze if I had used it.

What series of gauges were these? EV series? I would be interested in seeing the failures. Please return them through your original point of purchase.



Thanks,

Michael Pliska

 

[JTitone]

Thank you all who posted to my thread with recommendations on re-starting the truck. I went back and dis-assembled all the gauge components I installed on the engine. I went to my shop and used my vise to hold plumbing together while I re-tightened every fitting as tightly as I could. . Re-Assembled all the components back on my engine and then went through a bleed out process as before. Still no start until I pumped repeatedly on the accelerator. It started momentarily. Then I pumped the accelerator repeatedly again then it started and continued to run. Not sure if it was the pumping or if it was just time to re-start. But it's running fine and the gauge is showing 15# at idle and 12 -13# while cruising along.

Thanks again.

Jim T.

 

[LSchulz]

Good to hear. I didn't have to crack injector lines on mine, even after replacing the VP44. I just bumped the starter once, let it build pressure, put the pedal to the floor, and let it rip. It first fired after about 15 seconds of cranking, burped the bubbles out, and was hitting all 6 in less than a minute.

 

[hsmith]

Not sure if I still have the 30# gauge which I bought from Geno's. The 60# gauge is still in the A pillar. Got it from Diesel Manor. Would it do any good to return them?