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New good size oil leak' dont trust truck again

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Just returning from a Sunday drive on the logging roads in the coast range in north west Or. I went to hose off the dust and found oil on the tailgate, assuming it was gear oil, looked at rear axle, nothing. Looked to the front, oil running off front diff. Upon closer insp, running off the block. Had changed oil a few days ago, so I checked filter, drain plug, nothing. Checked pan bolts, tight. Now what, looking up the block oil seems to be comming from under the computer modual on the lower block driver side. I checked from above and no trace anywhere. Looking closer from under, looks like a plastic pannle behind the heat shield behind the computer mod.

I check under the truck a lot and other than the trans pan weeping a bit no leaks.

This leak is very new, maybe 5-10miles or so. The entire under side is dripping, and doesn't have dust mixed so it was after I was back on pavement.

I am once again afraid to drive my very expensive driveway
filler. Am I missing the 500lb gorilla?
I don't know much about the daily workings of the 6. 7

Checked P/S, nothing
Checked fuel filter and all the lines, nothing
Oil level on stick "full" same as when I changed it, Mopar oil filter, Shell rotalla T.
Only eng mod is K&N air filter
45436 on the clock, I am original owner
No codes

Can or should I drive the 20 miles to dealer?
 
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It does not have the absolute filtering capacity that the stocker does. If the K&N was that good, it would be standard equipment on construction equipment and OTR trucks. The stock filter assembly can support 500HP IIRC.
 
Many people have had troubles with oiled filters in particualar because they are more prone to passin dirt through the turbocausing catastrophic failures. On the other hand ive heard of people using them with no issues. Personally i think they are good filters but theyre place is more in the performance vehicle end. If you do a lot of off roading/ dirt road / dusty driving conditions i would consider a dry filter they are better suited for the conditions we put our trucks through. As for your other issue, im not familiar with the 6. 7s but i know on my older 2nd gen if you run your truck at a steep down grade (im talkin real steep) the oil would literally pump out the breather on the front cover as fast as the oil pump would pump it. Like i said i dont know if the 6. 7s have this issue but if youve been off roading it may be a possibility? Did you check your oil? How much did you lose? Often times leaks appear worse than they are, if you start it and let it idle can you see where its coming from?
 
If the 6. 7 is like the 5. 9, there is a plastic plug in an alternate dip stick port behind the ECU. They will crack and leak randomly and you cannot see the source of the leak.
 
If the 6. 7 is like the 5. 9, there is a plastic plug in an alternate dip stick port behind the ECU. They will crack and leak randomly and you cannot see the source of the leak.

That makes since as I can not find residue any other place on the block It must have let go when I gave her a good stomp on the skinny pedal when I hit pavement again. It is bad enough that it was dripping off the DPF and the rest of the exhaust along with most everything else under the truck. Not having smelled burning oil and not dust laden makes me believe it just happened .
 
It does not have the absolute filtering capacity that the stocker does. If the K&N was that good, it would be standard equipment on construction equipment and OTR trucks. The stock filter assembly can support 500HP IIRC.

As for the "it would be standard equipment" not buying it, ever wonder why manual trucks are 305 not 350 like the auto trans. Money, cost too much to have a "standard" clutch hold up to those kind of number's.
I do believe there may be issues w/ the K&N just need facts before I chuck something that was well excepted on most everything but the 6. 7 & cost me some hard earned green when the stock was due to go at the change interval
 
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Just wipe the inside of the intake tubing with a white towel. If it comes out dirty to point that makes feel uncomfortable then the filter may be passing dirt. Could also run a stock filter for a while and see how dirty the intake tubing gets and compare the results. Not scientific by any means but it may be a decent indicator.
 
As for the "it would be standard equipment" not buying it, ever wonder why manual trucks are 305 not 350 like the auto trans. Money, cost too much to have a "standard" clutch hold up to those kind of number's.
I do believe there may be issues w/ the K&N just need facts before I chuck something that was well excepted on most everything but the 6. 7 & cost me some hard earned green when the stock was due to go at the change interval

I am pretty sure that the 305/350 manual/auto thing has more to do with emissions than parts. Not saying that Dodge has not been notoriously cheap in the past, but it seems like they are getting better.
Pete
 
I am pretty sure that the 305/350 manual/auto thing has more to do with emissions than parts. Not saying that Dodge has not been notoriously cheap in the past, but it seems like they are getting better.
Pete

Wygate is correct. Stock clutch not able to handle the same power level as auto. Why would you think emissions would be different based on trans type? interesting.
 
I am pretty sure that the 305/350 manual/auto thing has more to do with emissions than parts.



Nope, Wygate is correct. It ultimately is all about the $$, though not in the way one might think.



From a mechanical perspective neither the manual nor the auto can handle the TQ from the 305 or 350. It has to be TQ managed or the transmission & components will fail miserably. The manual is derated because it and the clutch will fail far sooner than Corporate wants to pay for replacement, it cannot be adequately TQ managed above the level they set for an acceptable MTBF. The auto can so it gets more power.



However, the bottom line is still the $$ and it is ALL OUR FAULT!!! :-laf



As consumers we vote with our purchase $$. The overwhelming vote is for more, bigger, better AND we want it cheaper, faster, and easier.



The bulk of the consumers would NOT buy a truck with parts adequate to what the trucks are actually doing for work. Most people would NEVER consider an FL80 to pull that 16k 5'er even though that is what should be hooked to it. We want to do it with a cheaper LD truck and get the same performance. We will then complain about the fact the truck won't hold together under over use and outright abuse.



For corporate it is maximize the $$ from the demand. For the consumer its is maximize the benfit for the $$. The two idioms are ONLY comparable and compatible in terms of $$$.



So, yes it is ALL about the $$. :D
 
Wygate, sorry this got so far off topic, hope you find the problem and get it fixed! Let us know what it was
Bob V
 
Wygate is correct. Stock clutch not able to handle the same power level as auto. Why would you think emissions would be different based on trans type? interesting.
Well, read somewhere, not sure where or how credible, that the manual transmission stayed at 305 because of emission certification. the way I understood it Dodge certifies the truck as emission compliant as a whole package IAW engine and transmission combo. With the new fully digital controlled transmission and of course the engine already fully digital controlled, it was relatively easy to bump the horsepower and stay within emission standard because everything is completely integrated and 100% controlled by the computer, shifts, locking/unlocking of TC and throttle all working seamlessly together. With a manual you have no control over the transmission part, so from Dodge and EPA standpoint, no matter what the owner did with the clutch/transmission, lugging, popping clutch etc, nothing bad was suppose to come out of the exhaust pipe and they could not do this with the higher horsepower numbers. But I might be totally wrong, would not be the first time, historically it makes more sense that Dodge was just plain old cheap :)
Pete
And sorry for the hijack, will get back on topic again
 
My information on the HP difference is from a design engineer that was part of the first 6 speed manual build team. I went to him when I was ready to buy and couldn't figure out why they were different.

My truck has lost about a half quart in about 30 miles, most of those miles were on the way to the shop, and yes I did get the service manager to OK me to drive.
Dealer had it all day, no word yet. Seem backed up after long weekend.
 
Well 2 days at dealer, got a call this afternoon telling me what I told them when I dropped it off. "Oil leak is behind computer" don't really know exactly where. Put dye in and wanted me to drive it home, I reminded them that it only took about 30 miles to loose about a half quart. They then "remembered " how bad it was and will take it for a spin and re-check w/ black light and special glasses.



None of you guys that work on the 6. 7 regular have seen an issue like this?



I just want what I paid very good money for, a new truck my family and i can depend on, nothing more.
 
Why not ask them to pressurize the crankcase with a smoke generator and find the leak that way instead of guessing and wasting your time in the process?
 
If the 6. 7 is like the 5. 9, there is a plastic plug in an alternate dip stick port behind the ECU. They will crack and leak randomly and you cannot see the source of the leak.



Like he said plastic plug in dip stick hole, same thing I told them. Took 2 mechanics looking at the truck 2 different times to figure what it was. Now wait for part's, next week of course.



Oh yea when they called today, they said it was what you told us, I so want this to be the last time at the dealership.



Thanks for reading and more important support and info!!!

Jay
 
Should have dropped off a big tube of JB Weld and told them you wanted it back TODAY!!! :-laf



What parts are they waitng for? Muffler bearings? :D
 
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