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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New guy with question?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Exhausting Question ???

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Dana 80 oil change...

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I have a '96 3500 4x4 with auto trans. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should or should not do to improve power and mileage. I don't want to go ballistic but I do pull a 28' fifth wheel. Right now I have a stage one afe filter and I am getting ready to put 4" stainless exhaust from turbo back. I am not a real expert at this but would like to improve power and mileage without putting too much stress on transmission. I would appreciate any knowledge anyone could pass on to me. Thank you.
 
When you up the power and also tow your 47RE transmission will eventually slip the TC clutch which will cause it to overheat and eventually fail. If when it fails, the clutch material comes off the TC clutch (can and does happen) you have a real mess. There will be debris in your cooler and everything will need to be flushed out ($$$). Good advice is always beef up the transmission before you raise the power. There are many good trans modifiers that advertise in the TDR. Contact some of them and get prices. It will be cheaper to do it first and not second. Common mods for towing are a new Torque Converter (TC) and valve body that increases the pressures to keep the clutches from slipping. In addition there are updated seals that keep the internals working better.
 
First, Welcome to the TDR.



The 4" exhaust probably wont do too much for your power, it is still a good idea, as stainless will last quite a while. Just make sure its a good grade, up to T304. I`ve seen some stainless mufflers rust out in less than 2 years due to cheap stainless.



I`m not sure what the stage one afe is, I think it may be a drop in filter in the stock airbox. If this is the case, I would highly recommend a BHAF replacement, which replaces the whole airbox. Much cheaper than the other afe/etc washable type (40$ compared to 150-200), and filters better than a K&N. The fleetguard part number is AH19037, available at any cummins dealer, or at www.fleetguardfilters.com. You can find install instructions here by doing a search. A better air filter is about the only thing that may help your mileage, other than the right foot method. A valve adjust and mebe a injection pump timing bump may give you a little back also.



As Dieselnerd said, a transmission upgrade is a very good thing. Depending on how many miles you have on your stocker, you may or may not have a problem with a power upgrade. If you have driven it 'normally' and not raced around, you're probably fine with a medium plate upgrade, say a #10 or #11. But you -must- install a boost and EGT gauge before upgrading. At the minimum, an EGT gauge. A quick and easy boost for power would be to remove the AFC housing, and slide the stock plate forward. Also take the large allen head screw off the AFC, and adjust the star wheel 5-10 clicks toward the passenger side.



A transmission upgrade is like night and day on these trucks. The stock torque converter does not transfer enough low end power and just slushes around. I recently upgraded mine and I would -not- go back.



good luck



-jerry
 
Check my sig. Not a whole lot of money but well worth all of it. I tow a 5ver also at about 12k max. The next thing I really need is a transmission cooler, it can get pretty warm out here and stop and go on the highways will eat it up faster than anything. Do gauges FIRST so you know what is going on in there.
 
Thanks for the info, sounds like from what I am hearing the first thing I need to do is upgrade my tran. I will have to do some looking around and get back with you all on what I do and how I am getting along. Thanks again for the info. Any more suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Just remember this. Once you start upgrading your power,it is very addictive. So when you start,do everything with future power in mind. my . 0002 cents worth.
 
Welcome!



Some really good points above! I bought my 96 August of last year w/ 129k on the clock. Seemed a little anemic and mileage wasn't too hot. Ran between 15-17 mpg empty. Already had guages. :)



Thanks to TDR, here is what I've done since:

killed KDP via tab - HIGHLY recommend, it was about an 1/8" out

adjusted valves

set timing to ~17

moved plate (turns out I had a #8 full BACK) 85% forward

moved afc full forward

installed 3k GSK (highly recommend)



All this really helped the power, but didn't really help my mileage. As I read more and more, I decided to pickup a new overflow valve for the injection pump. At $90-some bucks, I decided to wait back in December when I was doing other work.



For kicks, I decided to pull the spring and take a look before I ordered a new one. Sure enough, it was compressed to . 46", it's supposed to be . 050. Stretched it out to . 51 and reinstallled. Wow what a difference. Mileage is upto a solid 19-21 (w/ soft foot). It idles better and is smoother throughout the power band. Still need the DTT, but that will have to wait til summer. Can't wait for that!



Best wishes,

Hvy
 
To answer your question directly, the upgraded TC with the more efficient fluid coupling will get you more power to the ground and a little better mpg. I avoided the transmission work for a long time, but finally took care of it. The difference was pretty amazing. Stop lights and on ramps don't know what hit em.

-JJ
 
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