New here, just bought a 1998...now what? And how much is it worth?

[BigPapa]

I gave my son this same advice when he purchased his first VP44 Cummins Ram, he said he would when he had time......Well he had time when it ralphed the VP44. A couple of thousand dollars made a believer out of him....

Young’uns....
My Grandad always told me, “You don’t ever have time to do it right, but you always have time to do it over.” Some things they just have to learn the hard way.

 

[BoeingDiesel]

MG. welcome to the TDR. You've come to the right place for 2nd Gen' maintenance, problems etc. I f the truck isn't equipped with a fuel pressure gauge I recommend you install one as soon as possible. Genos has has many to choose from.

 

[Chief USA]

Welcome to TDR MG. In my opinion, probably the 2 most important and effective modification you can and should do is to replace the lift pump with either an Air Dog or FASS.

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/AIRDOG-FP-150-fuel-system-p/a4spbd004.htm

https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/brands/fass/

I have the Air Dog 150 & big line kit on my truck and the Airtex with big line kit on the wife's truck which is stock. Both work well for the application they are installed on. There is not that much difference in the price between the Air Dog 150 and 100 so I went with the Air Dog 150.


Either of these is not a absolute requirement but they do offer superior protection to the VP-44 in that they ensure adequate fuel pressure and have a 2 micron spin on fuel filter and a spin on water separating fuel filter. If an Air Dog or FASS is not in your budget, relocating the lift pump to the frame below the fuel tank and replacing it with an Airtex 7153 fuel pump is an inexpensive but effective alternative. Give Eric a call at Vulcan Performance. He can go over everything you will need. He has the parts and kits for this:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Vulcan-Pusher-Pump-System-for-98-5-to-04-p/prsat.htm

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Vulcan-Pusher-Pump-System-for-98-5-to-04-p/prs.htm

Even if you plan to keep the truck stock, in my opinion, this is one of the best and most important mods you can do. The other mod that is just as important is installing a set of gauges. At least install a fuel pressure gauge. If the truck will remain stock, a boost pressure and egt gauge although really nice are not absolutely necessary, however, I highly recommend installing them anyway. You can almost never have too much information about what is taking place under the hood while driving.

If you will be keeping the truck stock, the OEM air filter will work just fine. If not, I recommend the BHAF:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm

I suspect I may draw some objections but I advise you use PAPER filter ONLY. DO NOT install ANY of the cloth/oil high flow air filters on your truck.........EVER. They may flow more air but they also allow more dust and abrasive contaminants to enter the intake track of the engine and thus shorten the life of the turbo and piston rings/bores.

If your truck is like mine, I still had the original shocks on it up until about a year ago. I finally bite the bullet and purchased a set of Bilstein 4600 shocks on the wife's and my truck and the difference in ride was amazing especially on her truck which is a long bed.

It is unlikely but still a good possibility that you may have the original brakes on your truck. If you are not sure, inspect them and properly service them. Over the years, even though there may be lots of pad or shoe material remaining, corrosion and rust takes a huge toll and can cause the calipers to seize up. The brake fluid should be replaced about every 2 years but rarely does get replaced. After over 16 years, my truck had the original brake pads with about 85% of the pads remaining but they would overheat on long trips due to the calipers being seized up due to corrosion and rust. It took me about a gallon of fresh brake fluid to flush out the sytem properly when I serviced the brakes. I am VERY embarrassed to say that 16 years old brake fluid does not smell or even look like brake fluid any longer.

The other fluid that almost never gets changed is the power steering fluid. I vaccum out the power steering pump reservoir and refill with new fluid at each oil change to keep it half way fresh. The same applies to engine coolant. It should be replaced every 2 years but rarely done. I use Shell Extended Life Engine Coolant which is good for 6 years but I check it and vaccum out the radiator and refill with a gallon or 2 of fresh Shell ELC to ensure the coolant additive package is up to par.

Lastly and there are more mods than this is to re-route the engine crankcase breather and remove the puke bottle on the radiator that oils and mucks that area up and route an extension hose/pvc line down below the front axle. This will alleviate regularly having to clean up the mess from the OEM crank case vent hose and bottle.

These are just some of the basis modifications that come to mind with a used stock truck. I tried to refine this down so it was not TMI but I think it ended up being TMI anyway. Good luck with your new but used truck. Your friend must think VERY highly of you if he gave you this truck. That was NO small thank you gift.

 

[SnoKing]

Some things to check and/or be aware of.

1. 53 block = Google that, there is a lot of reading about it available. Some never have a problem, others crack.
2. 5th gear nut can fall off. You buddy could tell you if that has been addresses.
3. Get a fuel pressure gauge.. Not a idiot light, as it will be to late to save the VP-44.
4. Check the track bar ends for wear. I good fix is the conversion to the 3rd gen bar.
4a. Cracking in a Little more caster is a good idea to prevent death wobble.
5. Put a steering box brace on it.
6. Leave the stock air cleaner and box on it.
7. Cummins 275 RV injectors are a nice choice
8. Find a Edge EZ box to up timing a bit, or Edge Comp in EZ mode(that is without the injector pump tap)

Note: To much power will result in a new clutch.

I you do not have a code reader, think about getting one. This vintage of trucks in not picky about much code reader works, so one for Harbor Fright should be fine.

I had my 2nd gen for 11 years and enjoy ever minute of that time and the thousand of dollars I spent on custom auto transmission and other mods. If you are going to tow, then put an exhaust brake on it. Pacbrake is highly rated.

Enjoy!

 

[SnoKing]

[QUOTE="CHIEF USA, post: 2621545, member: 13593" If an Air Dog or FASS is not in your budget, relocating the lift pump to the frame below the fuel tank and replacing it with an Airtex 7153 fuel pump is an inexpensive but effective alternative. Give Eric a call at Vulcan Performance. He can go over everything you will need. He has the parts and kits for this:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Vulcan-Pusher-Pump-System-for-98-5-to-04-p/prsat.htm
[/QUOTE]

Airtex worked well for me.

 

[Wayne M.]

Welcome to the TDR! Good luck with the truck, I have nothing to add here. Just happen to catch this on my local craigslist last night- looking for a friend. It looks too clean to be true and the price reflects it. I don’t know if you can use this to put a value in yours, but here ya go.

https://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/d/sicklerville-2001-dodge-ram-x4-sport/7060541631.html

 

[Wayne M.]

Oh and I like your icon.

 

[GAmes]

I suspect I may draw some objections but I advise you use PAPER filter ONLY. DO NOT install ANY of the cloth/oil high flow air filters on your truck.........EVER. They may flow more air but they also allow more dust and abrasive contaminants to enter the intake track of the engine and thus shorten the life of the turbo and piston rings/bores.

My objection is you paint both type filters with the same brush. A BHAF is a generic term that means big air filter. There are good ones and not so good ones. I'm more than happy with my oiled AFE Proguard 7. My oil analysis silicon numbers come back with less than 10 PPM with 15,000 miles on the oil. No one with a BHAF of any brand has matched that. What is the silicon count in your oil analysis?

 

[Chief USA]

My objection is you paint both type filters with the same brush. A BHAF is a generic term that means big air filter. There are good ones and not so good ones. I'm more than happy with my oiled AFE Proguard 7. My oil analysis silicon numbers come back with less than 10 PPM with 15,000 miles on the oil. No one with a BHAF of any brand has matched that. What is the silicon count in your oil analysis?

I'm glad your AFE Proguard 7 airfilter works good for you. I am involved with and around remote forestry and farming environments with my truck on more than occasionally and it gets pretty dusty. I go with what Cummins recommends. 200 grams of dirt material can destroy an engine.

https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/south-pacific/air

https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/s..._lit/americas_brochures/LT32599_05_select.pdf

https://pdf.sciencedirectassets.com...2650d54972083b24912fb73b50b3gxrqa&type=client

Nobody I know uses anything but a paper filter on their logging and farm machinery & associated equipment some of which can easily exceed $500,000.00. I have a suspicion your oil analysis results would be a bit different if you operated your truck in a dusty/dirty environment. Paper works for me and pretty much every diesel equipment owner I know.

 

[GAmes]

What others use in logging and farming is a red herring unless you can come up with some OA numbers. A blanket condemnation of oiled filters is a disservice to the OP as is a blanket recommendation of a generic filter. How do you know that paper works for you? Which paper filter works for you and how did you come to the conclusion that it is better than an oiled high flow filter??

 

[Chief USA]

We'll just have to respectfully agree to disagree. Based on the information presented by Cummins and others who have tested cotton gauze air filters with OEM paper filters, the information repeated shows that cotton gauze air filters DO flow more air and largely because of their larger pore size which can in some conditions allow more particulate matter to pass beyond and through the filter, that is my opinion. Years ago even Cummins warned against using these filters in their FAQ section, Diamler Chrysler would not warranty in some case where they were used. This may have changed. This is what used to make this country great........freedom to make your own choice and arrive at your own opinion.

By the way, from your avatar, as best I can see, you are a retired Army Master Aviator. My last assignment before I retired was with the 101st an MTP in DAMO. You know 2 Army aviatiors are going to have at least 3 different opinions on any given topic. LOL! Thank you for your service seems to be getting worn pretty thin as of late but thank you none the less for doing what you did. 20+ years is never easy.

 

[GAmes]

Serving was my pleasure. A bad day flying is better than a good day of work.

I only saw results for one oiled filter, and only a recommendation for one paper filter, OEM. But I wouldn't expect anything else from a company promo.

I would still like to hear what the silicon looks like in your oil samples.

 

[Seabee]

The only problem with speaking in definitives is that you draw controversy. Not trying to start a phrase war, but I just hate to have those kind of comments dropped on folks who have little experience in what they are asking about and then walk away thinking that any comment offered is gospel.
There have been many air filter comparison studies done over the years. TDR guru Joe Donnelley (sp?) did a big one years ago. I do think that he was more focused on horsepower increases. I have an AFE on my truck as well. I don't do oil analysis, so I have no facts to argue. I think there was a lot of controversy surrounding the AFE model I have in years past that support your argument. For me, I am my own warranty station, love the looks and performance of the filter, do not operate in dusty environments, change my oil more often than required, only put 5K on it annually, and will accept the negative aspects of my choice if/when they arise.
I would say though, that keeping the stock air box provides a better chance at receiving ambient air temperatures at the filter, versus the chance of receiving elevated temperatures that exist in the engine compartment with an exposed filter. The stock air box breathes through the passenger wheel well area.
See, now you got a 20 year Squid involved...……….LOL

 

[AH64ID]

I realize there are some differences between 3rd and 4th gen but the OE paper media on my 05 would return great silicone numbers on the UOA. My last two UOA’s showed 8 ppm. The filter had 15K miles on at at the time of the last sample. Lots of dirty and dusty driving.

 

[SnoKing]

Dealer sold me a drop in K&N for my new 2001.5, which I used for awhile until RAM recommended against it. I also ran a BHAF, but put the airbox back on with extra holes drilled in it. Never noticed a performance different between three. Noise yes, BHAF was noisy.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Think I have that filter in my Shop?

 

[SnoKing]

Think I have that filter in my Shop?

I was wondering what happen to it.

 

[GAmes]

My last two UOA’s showed 8 ppm. The filter had 15K miles on at at the time of the last sample. Lots of dirty and dusty driving.

How many miles on the oil? I change oil filters at about 15k and change the oil at or about 30k.. My last sample at 25,200 miles silicon was 8. the sample before with 28,777 was 9. I have to point out you are using an OE filter as well, not a BHAF. Just because a BHAF is paper doesn't mean it is a good filter. That was the point of my original post.

 

[AH64ID]

I think the sample was around 12K miles.

I thought you were asking about OE paper, I misread that. I’m not a fan of most the BHAF setups. The filters lack the proper flow most the time, which means at high flow the filtration suffers.