2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission New Interstate Batteries

[mroidt]

Got a fair deal on some MTP-27 Interstaters, my batteries were

really old, and was having a little trouble with them. So I replaced them.



I figured it was my batteries but, the troubles still there.

Didn't do this until last year, still, after I preheat and start the engine,

the voltage lights on for a while.

What do you think , bad heaters, they're still doin' there job, or maybe a

bad connection?



Think I should take batteries back and have them check them?

They are starting the truck, plugged in, haven't tried it cold.



Just thought maybe somebody had this before with the heaters.

Thanks for replies

 

[B.G. Smith]

Voltage light? I had a 99 and I don't recall a voltage light. It sounds like maybe your batteries are not being fully charged for some reason. If you have a volt meter. check the voltage across one of the bateries after the the truck has run awhile. Do you see the volt meter cycle up and down when the heaters are cycling? Also check the belt to make sure it's not worn out and slipping under heavy alternator load. bg

 

[mroidt]

Voltage light,..... probably alt light, you know... ... original belt.

Thanks I'll check altenator,too.



Voltage stays way down( 8- 10) and the light comes on.

 

[Missouri Mule]

You have a pre and post cycle for the grid heaters. They will run off and on for about 5 minutes or until you hit a certain mph, 20 I think.

 

[MLee]

Whats the CCA of the new batteries? Should be a minimum of 950. Lighter than that might not be adaquate.

 

[HBarlow]

You said you got a fair deal on a pair of Interstate batteries. Were they both new batteries from a battery retailer? Some try buying refurbished, or take out batteries already used.

 

[mroidt]

Yep know about pre and post heaters.

CCA thats something else that I have to ask the dealer about,

one battery is 1000, the others 900. I think the 900 has been on the shelf

too long, they're same model maybe from years back.

Thanks for reply

 

[HBarlow]

CCA means cold cranking amps. That's the measure of a battery's capacity to start a cold engine that takes some effort to get started.

Your battery purchase is bad news. You never want mismatched batteries in a dual battery application. The batteries in our Dodges are tied together in parallel which means the weakest of the two determines the strength of the pair.

What you're doing is dragging the stronger of the two batteries down to the lesser capacity of the weaker one. And if one battery is new and hot and the other is older and weaker, you've got a recipe for failure.

If a battery retailer sold you that crap he should be ashamed. Demand he refund your money and start over. I think I'd throw both of them through his store window if he won't refund your money. Well, that would be a criminal act.

 

[bheiting]

If the diode in your alternator is not functioning, you can eventually wreck your batteries. If you're having voltage problems, that would be my guess.

 

[Joe Mc]

OK so far I haven't heard if the volt gage goes up around 14 as your driving and the grids have stopped cycling (I think it's 20mph when they stop). If it's just idling and real cold the grids will come on for a bit then the gage goes down, you can see it start to come back up slow and then maybe the grids cycle back on? This can repeat for some time, usually once I go a 1/4 mile down the road to the coffee stop the grids don't cycle anymore.

I have to agree w/the two different CCA batteries and that you need to go back and get two new ones that match. Don't let them give you one to match one of the existing - I'd demand two new ones that match and go for the 1kCCA.

 

[mroidt]

Yep it goes to 14 after the gauge has been to9 or 10.

And yes it does all that.

Its not the voltage light , its check gauges light.

Does your check gauges light come on all the time Joe Mc?

Thats the problem I'm checking

thanks for replies

 

[mroidt]

Harvey and bheiting checking things out tomorrow thanks!!

 

[WilsonF]

I know that you shouldn't run mis-matched battery's but if the lowest one is 900 CCA I don't think its a problem, but you should get them load tested just in case. I didn't read how long the light stayed on, if it's just a short time, seconds, you may not have a problem.

Floyd

 

[mroidt]

HBarlow They gave me one new battery . good start anyways



They checked out the alternator, they said 14. 4 volts, didn't give me amps.



They load tested them but forgot to ask.



I'll try starting it next week and see if the check guages light comes on .

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

I concur with the previous posters. If your charging system is up to snuff I would venture a guess the batteries may be your issue. The batteries are a storage system and will temporarily supplement the charging system in times of need, such as the high current needs of the grid heaters. If the alternator cannot produce the required power the batteries will attempt to supply the deficiency, with the weakest battery determining maximum available battery power (assuming all connections are good). If the check gauges light illuminated, the voltage has dropped below a pre-determined value.
The important thing is to have adequately matched batteries (power capabilities and manufacture date) as well as a thorough test of the alternator, which includes load testing, to insure it can handle the required current of your truck. A simple output voltage measurement of the alternator may not always detect a bad diode.

 

[mroidt]

Well guys its been awhile, and the batteries worked well the rest of the

winter. But the check gauges still comes on every time.



Don't really know what or if I should do anything about it.

Probably will put a new belt and check tensioner at next service.



Thanks for all your advice and once again I love this place.