New & looking at getting a 5er

[PaulRobinson]

Its most important how the unit is built, particularly the roof. I have a Dutchman that's just as pretty as a picture, but the aluminum roof was a bit bulgy. Turns out the company engineered some nifty trusses using 2x2 joists, and 1X2 flat for the curvede arch, with little pieces inbetween, and some neat little steel bits tro hold it all together.



That's all fine, but on top of the trusses on 16" centers, they put an insulation board (3/16" cardboard), and the aluminum skin - loose fiberglas bats provide no insulation, no capor barrier, now the roof is cracked from flexing, and the cardboard is soggy.



Moral: know what's under the roof.



As far as the rubber is concerned - many of the new units are vinyl - but either is as good as aluminum in my view - and a lot easier to repair when, not if, it needs it.



Just my 2cents



PWR

 

[Prairie Dog]

It's strange to me how some people here call to question the quality of FR products. If you go to some of the RV forums out there, you'll find just the opposite opinion. They are regarded as better quality than most and tend to offer lots of extra's for the same price as most other lesser equipped TT's. Mine has a 4000lb CCC weight and that says a lot about the quality of the running gear.

I've not had any issues with mine and I looked at everything out there before buying (including Arctic Fox). From what I saw they are about the best value for the money.

Also, FR is well known for standing behind its stuff.



Scotty

 

[Ramtough]

I have a 02 Wilderness 31 5G 5th wheel - just had a run-in with the factory on an issue I think they should have taken care of. My next unit will be a Forrest River - guaranteed.



I do a lot of dry camping. First of all, do not count on being able to charge batteries from the truck. Due to small wiring in the truck & trailer, the most you are going to get is around 6 AH. Your charge controller is capable of delivering 40 AH or more. Unless you are not using any internal power, your battery charge will decline daily while on the road without other charging assistance. It does not matter what the truck is capable of putting out.



I got so frustrated with this, I installed a 30A relay and ran a 10 gauge wire directly from the battery to the pigtail on the truck. Guess what? No change - reason . . . tiny wiring in the trailer that is built in and could not be upgraded #@$%!



For dry camping, I recommend 2 6volt golf cart batteries - they hold up better than marine batteries under hard use.



I have a Onan 3. 6KW LP powered generator. The installer built a box in the front storage compartment and installed a switch to isolate the generator from shore power. I find I need 2-4 hours of generator time per day plus any time needed for AC, microwave or wife's hair dryer. Everything else will run on 12V or LP.



You may want to think of installing an inverter to run small AC appliances like computers or TVs.



I've used portable generators but they are a hassle when you are on the road and downright dangerous when its raining.



The most valuable tool I have for dry use power management is my battery meter from Backwoods Solar.



http://www.backwoodssolar.com/catalog/meters.htm#Tri-Metric Battery Meter



This is the only way you can really know what is going on with your batteries. The manufacturer's gauges are a joke.





I also highly recommend the book, "Living on 12 Volts. "



http://www.amplepower.com/products/living/



This book will tell you everything you need to know to successfully manage 12V living systems.



A final thought, before you buy a RV. Find out where the water heater bypass is. Some RVs have to be nearly torn down once a year to access the bypass. Otherwise, plan to buy 7 -10 gallons of antifreeze per year instead of 1.



Good luck with your new RV, we'll see you on the road. You'll most likely find us in a Wal-Mart parking lot:-laf