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Taking off overloads - Where to find shorter U-bolts?

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I am a new member and this is my first post... . I just purchased a 97 12v 3500 5speed, and I want to install an exhaust brake. I have searched the previous posts for the past few days and really haven't found the info I am looking for, so I'll just ask.

I am planning on getting the jacobs brake, but I don't know where to get the best price. Moparforless told me they don't stock this model. I am not opposed to other brands such as pac brake if they are less expensive. Can you use a manually operated switch with the Jacobs??? (Like a gearshift mounted switch) If so, what type???

Thank you for your responses in advance.

MIKE>
 
The BD brake is more money but claims to have better retarding power than others without changing exhaust valve springs to 60lb springs. For that reason I bought the BD and am very happy with it. Really slows you down. The added cost for the change over to heavier valve springs make the cost difference a lot more even plus you can get even more retarding power after changing springs.

Welcome to the TDR and enjoy your truck.
 
Seems like at the last NWBOMBers event they were installing 2 of those. You can do what you suggest with the Jacobs, including the manual switch, etc. I am not sure where they got them, but it was mail order and a great price.



If your thinking about a PacBrake, Piers has them on sale this month. A good price. And if you are ever thinking about a BD exhaust brake, then for sure check out Piers' special. The best price I have ever seem a BD from anyone.



http://www.piersdiesel.com/Specials.htm
 
E Brake

I tow a 34' 5th wheel and I wouldn't be without my BD Exhaust Brake. Especially going down 6-10% grades. I used to have a Pac Brake and it did not work for me. Don't know about the other brands but the BD seems to be the most popular.



Silver Streak
 
E-Brakes are great, and a lot of folks in California have installed them. However, I am quoting here exerpts of an advisement I received from Cummins regarding E-brakes on California trucks:



" The brake is retrofittable to all model years from 1989 through 1997, one exception being that it must NOT be installed on engines fitted with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. This restriction is not unique to our product. Engines fittted with EGR must NOT have an exhaust brake of any type installed. The EGR valve is a CARB (California Air Resources Board) emissions requirment for vehicles sold and operated in California. "



"Beginning in January 1, 1996, ... Dodge trucks from California have a re-circulating system to meet CARB emmission requirments. The only real problem with this is that many people want an exhaust brake on their vehicles for mountain conditions and the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system is not compatible with the exhaust brake operation. "



If you care to seek your own advice from Cummins, you may contact them at -- email address removed --.



;)
 
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So, Where to buy the Jacobs brake???

Great info guys... . I am leaning toward the BD brake right now..... Just wondering if it is absolutely necessary to use the heavier springs with it on a 12V.

Also, just for comparison, who has the best price on the Jacobs ebrake?
 
I'm planning BD brake

I am new also, and I am planning to have a BD brake installed. My application is a camper installation and mountain driving. I plan to use Progressive Diesel here in Denver to do the installation. Joe strongly suggested installing the 60 lb springs.



Is that a recommended addition or would you do it for sure?



Finally, I am planning both Auto-loc and Pressure-loc for the transmission. I am running the stock converter and will install a transmission temp gauge. Any thoughts???
 
Its not an absolute necessity to have the 60# springs with the 12v. You simply get less back pressure and breaking effect. I think the BD unit is adjustable. So you can try with std springs and it thats not enough braking power, install the springs and then adjust the brake for increased back pressure. -- I am not sure if all models are adjustable. I think with some you have to specify what springs you are using. Something to ask about and plan for. Determine how much you really need and get it done right the first time. -- Also some people with automatics like to stick with the std springs and back pressure, because its less stress on the transmission and still way better than stock.
 
SlyBones,



Thanks for the info. I think I'll go with the springs. Only worry is the effect it will have on the transmission. If the trans stays cool, shouldn't it be OK? I'll have Pressure-loc and there are two major hills coming back into Denver that concern me.



Also, any comments on Auto-loc vs. Torque-loc for hauling the camper? I am leaning towards Torque-loc because of the simplicty of locked or unlocked... any thoughts?
 
DSenn,



Bill K. of DTT regards all of BD tcc lock up products as torque converter clutch killers! And he has plenty of thrashed torque converters to back up that claim. Check with him for any transmission stuff if you want the best stuff.
 
Even with Pressure-loc?

Joe G,



Is that true even if you use Pressure-loc? I thought that was the purpose of P-loc... to increase the holding pressure on the TC clutches?



I would imagine a locked converter with low pressure and a big brake would not enhance the life of the converter...
 
The problem is that the TCC remains locked when you pull hard so it slips. You need someway to UNLOCK the TCC in a hard pull or acceleration situation. None of the BD products provide that. The DTT Smart Controller or TC Saver provides that unlock under hard load capability. Braking is ok, it's the holding a lock while making a lot of torque is the TCC killer. Basically, the thing really is that you should get your transmission stuff from DTT. Best stuff and, by far, the best customer service.
 
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