New member

[RNey]

Hello,



I am a new member of TDR and my Cummins is my first diesel truck. I bought the truck used with 13. 5k miles and have put just over 1,000 miles on it. So far I have changed the engine oil and filter, the fuel filter, and the front & rear differential fluid. The truck is stock.



TDR has a wealth of information for newbies like me and I look forward to learning as much as I can hear. Thank you!

 

[HBarlow]

Congratulations and welcome to TDR Richard.

Ten years ago I bought my first Dodge Ram with Cummins engine. I knew essentially nothing about Dodge Rams or diesel engines when I joined. What little I know now has come from the TDR, TDR members, and my ownership experience.

The collective membership of the TDR can answer any question you'll have or on the rare occasion the members may not be able to, they will refer you to a source where you will find accurate answers. The membership knows more than any dealer mechanic you'll ever find and part of our knowledge base includes knowledgeable dealer techs who work on Cummins powered Rams.

 

[Bill Stockard]

Welcome to TDR! You are on the right track by changing fluids and filters. Not only do you know it has been done, it gave you an opportunity to look over and learn about the various drivetrain components.



WOW! 13. 5K miles. Someone took a hit... their loss, your gain.



Bill

 

[RNey]

Congratulations and welcome to TDR Richard.



Ten years ago I bought my first Dodge Ram with Cummins engine. I knew essentially nothing about Dodge Rams or diesel engines when I joined. What little I know now has come from the TDR, TDR members, and my ownership experience.



The collective membership of the TDR can answer any question you'll have or on the rare occasion the members may not be able to, they will refer you to a source where you will find accurate answers. The membership knows more than any dealer mechanic you'll ever find and part of our knowledge base includes knowledgeable dealer techs who work on Cummins powered Rams.

Thank you for the welcome. I agree that the collective wisdom of a knowledgeable group can outweigh virtually any individual.



While I am searching the forums, reading the magazines, and generally working to absorb as much as I can as quickly as I can, I would certainly appreciate hearing your thoughts on "must-dos" or "must-haves" regarding this truck. For context: I tow very little and my primary goal is reliability and long service life.



Thank you.

 

[RNey]

Welcome to TDR! You are on the right track by changing fluids and filters. Not only do you know it has been done, it gave you an opportunity to look over and learn about the various drivetrain components.



WOW! 13. 5K miles. Someone took a hit... their loss, your gain.



Bill

Agreed. Knowledge is power.

 

[Simplysmn]

1 must do is always run with Exhaust brake on it keep's the slide on the turbo clean . And second don't be afarid to drive it hard theses truck's like it . And what ever you do run stock Mopar filter's and stay away from K&N Good luck with your truck and Welcome to TDR



Val

 

[KLauber]

Welcome from the SC branch! Enjoy that awesome exhaust brake!

 

[HBarlow]

Thank you for the welcome. I agree that the collective wisdom of a knowledgeable group can outweigh virtually any individual.

While I am searching the forums, reading the magazines, and generally working to absorb as much as I can as quickly as I can, I would certainly appreciate hearing your thoughts on "must-dos" or "must-haves" regarding this truck. For context: I tow very little and my primary goal is reliability and long service life.

Thank you.

I don't have any must do recommendations that must be done immediately since you have already changed fluids and filters.

I guess my advice is read the owner's manual and assume that the Dodge and Cummins engineers who designed and built our trucks and must stand by the warranty knew what they were doing and why. Please don't make the sometimes expensive mistake of assuming that you know more than the engineers and begin replacing all the components of your truck with aftermarket junk.

Also, be aware that Cummins, Inc. through their dealers and Geno's Garage are good sources for ordinary maintenance parts. Dodge parts can usually be obtained from online discounters such as MOPAR4LESS. There are others. Dodge dealers are generally the last resort because of their high markups.

And finally, before taking your truck to a dealer for warranty issues or service know what you want and why, don't be guided by a service advisor who doesn't own one and knows less than you do. NEVER allow the dealership service department to sell you anything before you discuss it here. You may be lucky and have a good dealer service department nearby. There are some but they are few.

 

[RNey]

I don't have any must do recommendations that must be done immediately since you have already changed fluids and filters.



I guess my advice is read the owner's manual and assume that the Dodge and Cummins engineers who designed and built our trucks and must stand by the warranty knew what they were doing and why. Please don't make the sometimes expensive mistake of assuming that you know more than the engineers and begin replacing all the components of your truck with aftermarket junk.



Also, be aware that Cummins, Inc. through their dealers and Geno's Garage are good sources for ordinary maintenance parts. Dodge parts can usually be obtained from online discounters such as MOPAR4LESS. There are others. Dodge dealers are generally the last resort because of their high markups.



And finally, before taking your truck to a dealer for warranty issues or service know what you want and why, don't be guided by a service advisor who doesn't own one and knows less than you do. NEVER allow the dealership service department to sell you anything before you discuss it here. You may be lucky and have a good dealer service department nearby. There are some but they are few.

Thank you.



I have indeed read the manual and the diesel supplement. Twice. I will probably go over at least the diesel supplement once again. I agree that the engineers know what they are doing and why they do it, and have no intention of second guessing them.



One addition I am considering is the addition of pyrometer, boost, and trans temp gauges, but I am not fully convinced, yet, that they are necessary. Thoughts? Further, I am on the fence regarding fuel additives and supplemental filtration. I treated 30 gallons of fuel with Stanadyne and it did quiet the engine. The noise, per se, is irrelevant to me. If the quieting is a side effect of a material benefit, and there are no offsetting drawbacks, I will likely continue to add it. Supplemental filtration is still a ways off for me, but I have perused the Glacier Diesel kit and heard good things about it.

 

[RNey]

Welcome from the SC branch! Enjoy that awesome exhaust brake!

Thank you. The exhaust brake is great, and is on whenever I drive. In fact, now that I am thinking about it, I would like to reverse the switch so that the EB is on by default. Another research topic.

 

[RNey]

1 must do is always run with Exhaust brake on it keep's the slide on the turbo clean . And second don't be afarid to drive it hard theses truck's like it . And what ever you do run stock Mopar filter's and stay away from K&N Good luck with your truck and Welcome to TDR



Val

Thanks. Yes, I have been running the exhaust brake full time. Will look into making that the default.

 

[Chemical03]

Regarding increased service life I would suggest you look into the MAG HYTEC pan for your 68RE. I am no expert by any stretch, but I, like you, am looking to ensure long service life. The added transmission fluid (3qts I believe on the 68RE deep pan) will help keep your transmission cool thus extended life even if you don't tow.

maghytec.com



If you are feeling adventurous I would install a trans temp gauge. The Mag Hytec has a port built in and everything very nice set-up.



This isn't anything Dodge/Cummins specific but you need to take care of the painted surfaces with a really high quality wax (I suggest Maquires Tech Wax 2. 0 or Ultimate) the engine may last 1,000,000 miles but if you don't keep your painted surfaces protected it will be one ugly duckling.



I don't see where you live but if you are in a climate like Buffalo, with municipalities that use salt, I would clean all the seams under the truck, scuff the primer with a scotch-brite or brillo pad and then paint them with a metal spray paint or better yet I suggest POR 15 a rust inhibitor paint

Stop Rust POR15 .

Just make sure you stay away from areas where the sheet metal has been sandwiched together. You want to leave that the way it is so moisture can escape from between the sheet metal.



Just some things that I did to make sure things are protected.

Welcome this is a great place to learn!

 

[RNey]

Regarding increased service life I would suggest you look into the MAG HYTEC pan for your 68RE. I am no expert by any stretch, but I, like you, am looking to ensure long service life. The added transmission fluid (3qts I believe on the 68RE deep pan) will help keep your transmission cool thus extended life even if you don’t tow.

maghytec.com



If you are feeling adventurous I would install a trans temp gauge. The Mag Hytec has a port built in and everything very nice set-up.



This isn’t anything Dodge/Cummins specific but you need to take care of the painted surfaces with a really high quality wax (I suggest Maquires Tech Wax 2. 0 or Ultimate) the engine may last 1,000,000 miles but if you don’t keep your painted surfaces protected it will be one ugly duckling.



I don’t see where you live but if you are in a climate like Buffalo, with municipalities that use salt, I would clean all the seams under the truck, scuff the primer with a scotch-brite or brillo pad and then paint them with a metal spray paint or better yet I suggest POR 15 a rust inhibitor paint

Stop Rust POR15 .

Just make sure you stay away from areas where the sheet metal has been sandwiched together. You want to leave that the way it is so moisture can escape from between the sheet metal.



Just some things that I did to make sure things are protected.

Welcome this is a great place to learn!

Thanks. Yes, the TDR has a wealth of info; and I am only beginning to scratch the surface.

 

[Chemical03]

Regarding the gauges: Trans Temp helps you ensure you can catch problems before they become catastrophic.

Boost is nice to have - I highly suggest you read the TDR article on the "Boost Treadmill" I found that it provided a cheap and effective means of diagnosiing if there is a problem with the engine.

EGR seems to be more for the guys that are looking for performance rather than longevity, but I am no expert, just based on what I have read.



Fuel Additives: I think it is important because frankly I dont trust the Fuel I am putting in to be as good as it claims to be. I like Howes Diesel Treat.

 

[HBarlow]

Thank you.

I have indeed read the manual and the diesel supplement. Twice. I will probably go over at least the diesel supplement once again. I agree that the engineers know what they are doing and why they do it, and have no intention of second guessing them.

One addition I am considering is the addition of pyrometer, boost, and trans temp gauges, but I am not fully convinced, yet, that they are necessary. Thoughts? Further, I am on the fence regarding fuel additives and supplemental filtration. I treated 30 gallons of fuel with Stanadyne and it did quiet the engine. The noise, per se, is irrelevant to me. If the quieting is a side effect of a material benefit, and there are no offsetting drawbacks, I will likely continue to add it. Supplemental filtration is still a ways off for me, but I have perused the Glacier Diesel kit and heard good things about it.

All three of my Dodges have had aftermarket gauges installed. They are handy, helpful, useful, but not required or essential.

Your owner's manual says no fuel additives required or recommended. Many of them will end up in the diesel particulate filter and cause early failure and expensive replacement.

Some owners believe that their engine will love them more if they add fuel additive. Your engine will never know the difference and doesn't care. The fuel additive makers and retailers will like you better it that's your goal.

I have put 650,000 trouble free miles on three Cummins powered Rams and never used a drop of fuel additive except anti-gel when I was traveling through extreme cold weather and stopping overnight.

Do big truck fleets that own hundreds of trucks that each run 100k miles a year add fuel additive to their fuel tanks? No, absolutely not! They know that all fuel additives do is add to their operating costs.

Use of fuel additives is a religion that some TDR members practice. It is much like Christianity. It is based on faith only. NO proof is available.

 

[RNey]

All three of my Dodges have had aftermarket gauges installed. They are handy, helpful, useful, but not required or essential.



Your owner's manual says no fuel additives required or recommended. Many of them will end up in the diesel particulate filter and cause early failure and expensive replacement.



Some owners believe that their engine will love them more if they add fuel additive. Your engine will never know the difference and doesn't care. The fuel additive makers and retailers will like you better it that's your goal.



I have put 650,000 trouble free miles on three Cummins powered Rams and never used a drop of fuel additive except anti-gel when I was traveling through extreme cold weather and stopping overnight.



Do big truck fleets that own hundreds of trucks that each run 100k miles a year add fuel additive to their fuel tanks? No, absolutely not! They know that all fuel additives do is add to their operating costs.



Use of fuel additives is a religion that some TDR members practice. It is much like Christianity. It is based on faith only. NO proof is available.

I will probably install gauges, and am investigating the different options (brand and configuration). At this point I am leaning toward Autometers mounted on the dash. I also hear good things about Isspro and Westach. SPA is also on my list, but they are a bit more expensive than the others. I am unconcerned about aesthetics and am focused solely on functionality and durability. I do not want to spend my money on hype or fashion.



Good to hear of your 650,000 trouble free miles. Clearly you are doing something right. I think it is reasonable to conclude (based on your points above) that fuel additives are unnecessary and likely harmful. Until I am convinced otherwise, my 30 gallon experiment will be my last.

 

[icman95]

Welcome aboard! I'm going to second Chemical03's advice about painting the frame with POR-15 for longevity. I wish I had done it to my truck from the get go, but I didn't know about it until finding someone here who spoke of it. While my truck is by no means rusting out, it is 10 years old and does have some rust that will need to be taken care of for longevity.



Learning from this, I recently spent much time scraping down surface rust from the frame on my 1994 Jeep Wrangler purchased in November. It was in really good shape given it's age, so I painted over it with 3 coats of Por-15 to ensure that it lasts for years to come. I'm really happy with it and now am confident that I can drive all winter without the salt eating my Jeep away while I watch. I will do the same to my truck as soon as time allows. If you have the time to do it and intend to keep the truck for a while, I highly recommend it.

 

[GaryCarter]

Welcome!



The drive train will be the most durable part of the truck. As soon as I got my last one home, I did the following:

- Clean and paint the bare spots and thin spots on the frame and axles with black Rustoleum. Dodge does a lousy job on their frame paint- you shouldn't have to look at rusty chassis parts on a brand new truck.

-Painted the underside of the floor pans with undercoating. Partly to quiet the gravel hits and also to protect the paint from stones. As other post stated, don't plug the drain holes where the body is sandwiched and welded. did the rear fenders inside too.

-Shot LPS #3 into the rocker panels through the drains. Also the A, B, and C pillars at the lower portions. Later I'll do inside the doors too.

-Shot LPS inside the frame through all the holes front to rear. I think with good paint on the outside and the sticky lube on the inside the frame is bulletproof.



Oil and filters is another religious matter, I'll leave that hot potato for someone else.

 

[RNey]

icman95 and GaryCarter, appreciate the welcome and your thoughts. As Mr. Barlow indicated above, there are a clearly a lot of knowledgeable folks here at TDR, and I look forward to learning from them all.

 

[SNGLESHOT]

Well Richard... welcome to the Diesel Head Club. These guys are great. Long time members like Harvey are a wealth of knowledge to be mined. I bought mine new in 2008 and didnt get the deal you got for sure. We have closely identical trucks it sounds like.
The guys have covered it pretty well and I can agree with what has been tossed your way. I can't add much except for one thing. About driving with EB on all the time. That's fine for sure... in dry weather. HOWEVER... use caution in inclement weather, rain, snow, ice, etc etc. When that EB kicks in... it may cause your rear end to lose traction and you will be in for the ride of your life. I know. It happened to me on a smooth road with wet leaves... on a downhill curve. I had skid marks in my shorts that day and it was only dumb luck nobody was coming the other way cause I needed every inch of that road to keep that spinning 21 foot 7300 lbs silver missle from hitting anything. Dumb luck saved me. Not sure if that caveat is included in the Owners Manual or not. Can't remember really.

Other than that. . I have nothing else to add to the list. Enjoy your truck and make sure you put a good load on her once in awhile, keep your idling down to nothing, keep trips long if possible. They love to work hard... heavier the better. !!