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New Motor Break-in Procedure ?

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99 Ranger

53 Ford tractor rebuild

What is YOUR procedure for a rebuild break-in and why?? Got the Ford Tractor put back together, It fired but shut it down cause I was to tired to mess with it anymore last night.
 
Best thing to do is start it let it fast idle around 850-1200 rpm check for oil leaks and coolant flow. Allow to come up to temp. After about an hour stop and check oil and coolant levels. You want to give the engine a few (warm up cool down) heat cycles. Give the rings a chance to seat and all the new parts to get friendly with each other. After an hour and a half give it some load but again not full load just enough to get it to heat up some. Last thing you want to do is get the cylinders really hot and glazed over the rings will never seat if that happens and you'll end up with an engine that uses oil lots of oil. After about 5 hours of running time change the oil. There is a lot of break in metals that end up in the first oil change best to get rid of them then you can give it a good work out but don't work it hard for too long, again you want that heat cooling heating cycle to take place a few times. Give the engine a chance to run in and you'll have an engine that will run very well and not use oil. Some may say my method is over kill but I've rebuilt many marine engines and this method has never let me down nor have I had an engine come back.
 
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I agree with the above except after 20 minutes of running and temps come up run it like you normally would. Vary the rpm. let the cyls get hot. Change oil at 25 hours.
Either way if it's done right you'll get good service.
 
yep... thats a pretty solid and safe break-in procedure... FWIW, where I work, we fire them, up, give them about 15-20 minutes of warm up time while checking for leaks/noises... if everything checks out, it gets ramped to full load/speed for 4 hours... .
 
Just make sure that when you fire up initially you run it long enough to get all the air out of the cooling system before you run it on the road. Maybe that goes without saying... but I'll say it anyway.
 
yep... thats a pretty solid and safe break-in procedure... FWIW, where I work, we fire them, up, give them about 15-20 minutes of warm up time while checking for leaks/noises... if everything checks out, it gets ramped to full load/speed for 4 hours... .

Yep, your engines and their replacement parts are a bit more modern than a Ford 8N tractor. :D

The techs in our tractor shop would do the same procedure as you when they overhauled a modern diesel tractor engine. Hook the PTO up to the water cooled dynamometer and put under varying loads for about 4 hours.

Bill
 
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I basically agree with all of the techniques previously shared. I'll add that I feel much more comfortable using a special "break in oil" on anything with a flat tappet style cam. I used Comp Cam's oil because of price and local availability.
http://www.compcams.com/Products/CC-'Lubricants'-0.aspx
I always hook up an oil pressure gauge whether it's a mechanical gauge, the mechanical gauge already in the cluster, or my laptop.
I like to fill the cooling system with water for the initial start-up. Then I drain the system and refill with coolant after the first run and leak check. I feel like this also helps get rid of any rust/residue left in the block or radiator.
Start it up and bring it up to a fast idle as already mentioned.
Test and adjust timing if necessary.
Run for awhile while varying engine speed.
Stop engine and allow to cool.
Drain water and add coolant. Run again. Sometimes it isn't practical to load the engine. You can use cardboard over the radiator to help it get up to temp.
Once you have a few hours on it, change the oil and filter.
 
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Best thing to do is start it let it fast idle around 850-1200 rpm check for oil leaks and coolant flow. Allow to come up to temp. After about an hour stop and check oil and coolant levels. You want to give the engine a few (warm up cool down) heat cycles. Give the rings a chance to seat and all the new parts to get friendly with each other. After an hour and a half give it some load but again not full load just enough to get it to heat up some. Last thing you want to do is get the cylinders really hot and glazed over the rings will never seat if that happens and you'll end up with an engine that uses oil lots of oil. After about 5 hours of running time change the oil. There is a lot of break in metals that end up in the first oil change best to get rid of them then you can give it a good work out but don't work it hard for too long, again you want that heat cooling heating cycle to take place a few times. Give the engine a chance to run in and you'll have an engine that will run very well and not use oil. Some may say my method is over kill but I've rebuilt many marine engines and this method has never let me down nor have I had an engine come back.



Did it this way and final test was taking the tractor for a blade plow not a drop plow,with the wife driving (cause I cant) it ran LIKE A TOP!!! Had to put corplast in front of the Rad. to get it up to temp and even then it took awhile, new water pump and had the Radiator rebuilt. Had the NEW head didn't want to chance a rebuild on a patch head job. Put it in the shop pulled the drain plug and will go back in the AM and complete the oil change and away she goes. Thanks for the ideas really don't want to give it to DIL now.



BIG
 
Big, I bought a motorcycle brand new, drove it 1/4 mile to the gas station and filled it up. Pulled out, twisted the throttle to the peg, and ran down the boulevard at 104. :D That bike ran like a scalded dog, and I never had a problem with it.
It was a Yamaha though. ;)
 
Big, I bought a motorcycle brand new, drove it 1/4 mile to the gas station and filled it up. Pulled out, twisted the throttle to the peg, and ran down the boulevard at 104. :D That bike ran like a scalded dog, and I never had a problem with it.

It was a Yamaha though. ;)



Mr PToombs

Well there ya have it!!! It was a Yamaha I have a gen set of theirs and wouldn't trade it for anything else. Ya its a 60 year old tractor so I think that buy doing it your way might have left parts scattered all over the shop. :-laf Don't know for sure but its running great fired it up when I was putting some equipment away and took it for a spin, we haven't been home all weekend, it worked fine Im happy with the way it turned out. I will try to remember your idea if and when I get a Yamaha but it will have to be an automatic cause I cant shift with no foot and I don't think it will go a 104 in 1st gear maybe so but not with me on it :-laf
 
Funny Mr. Big! :-laf I'm more conservative in my older age, I try to break things in a little more like the others suggested, varying loads, change the oil fairly soon, etc. I have a JD "R" 2 banger diesel that I need to finish up, I'm redoing the pony and the large engine. The pony runs like my bike did, but I'll find a way to idle it down some, and the diesel is a slow turner anyways. Should be fun if I ever get it done.
Maybe you should stay off the bike, just sayin'... ... . ;)
 
Funny Mr. Big! :-laf I'm more conservative in my older age, I try to break things in a little more like the others suggested, varying loads, change the oil fairly soon, etc. I have a JD "R" 2 banger diesel that I need to finish up, I'm redoing the pony and the large engine. The pony runs like my bike did, but I'll find a way to idle it down some, and the diesel is a slow turner anyways. Should be fun if I ever get it done.
Maybe you should stay off the bike, just sayin'... ... . ;)

Thanks ill keep your ideas in mind, about the fastest thing I get on that is open cab so to speak is Daisy and she is a little faster than 3 miles an hour but if you watch this video you kind of get an idea of what im talking about, I would LOVE TO MEET this man but don't know how to approach someone that is the yoda of Packing, I know its not rocket science but im kind of partial to it. If you have the time its a good watch he's in my backyard but we can share its only 1million + acres


http://watch.montanapbs.org/video/2176749351
 
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