New Oil Fill Cap for Bypass Filters

[Lube Man]

The latest issue of AMSOIL Action News announced a new oil fill cap for use with ba bypass oil filter for Ford, Dodge, and Duramax. When I put an AMSOIL bypass on my 99 Cummins I had to modify the old cap and actually glue it back together. Always worried about the glue breaking if I screwed it back on too tight. The new AMSOIL filler cap eliminates this problem for fifty bucks dealer or preferred customer cost.

 

[amsoilman]

New Aluminum Billet Oil Fill and Oil Filter Caps for BMK11 By-Pass Filtration System

AMSOIL now offers new by-pass components to ease the installation of the BMK11 By-Pass Filtration System in three popular diesel engines: the Ford 6. 0L Power Stroke™, the Dodge 5. 9L Cummins and the General Motors 6. 6L Duramax.



Engine compartments are becoming increasingly cramped, leaving little room for after-market additions and improvements. The BMK11 is a single remote by-pass filter system that fits into much smaller spaces than the AMSOIl Dual-Remote By-Pass System.



Ford 6. 0L Power Stroke™ Diesels

To ease installation of the BMK11 on 2003 and later model Ford pickups equipped with the 6. 0L Power Stroke™ diesel engine, AMSOIL provides the new Aluminum Billet Oil Filter Cap (BK1101), the Aluminum Billet Oil Fill Cap (BK1102) and the 90-degree JIC Elbow (BP242). These new high-quality billet aluminum caps replace the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) filter cap and oil fill cap. The new caps have holes tapped in them that accept the JIC elbows for hose connectors.



Dodge 5. 9L Cummins Diesels

To ease installation of the BMK11 in 2004 and later model Dodge pickups equipped with the 5. 9L Cummins diesel engine, AMSOIL offers the new 1/8" NPT - 1/4" JIC fitting (BP241), the Aluminum Billet Oil Fill Cap for Dodge 5. 9L Cummins diesels (BK1301) and the 90-degree JIC Elbow (BP242). The BP241 fits onto the existing plug on top of the OEM full-flow filter mount, and the addition of the BK1301 eases the installation of the oil return line.





Wayne

amsoilman

 

[Lube Man]

Oh, I forgot to mention. Although the AMSOIL literature mentions the new cap for 2004 and later Dodge's, I did call AMSOIL tech dept and they confirmed it will fit older dodoges at least back to the 24 valve and maybe even the 12 valvers.

 

[Nate]

I just bought a cap from Napa for $8 that is like the stock cap but doesn't have the ratchet mechanism.

 

[amsoilman]

Oh, I forgot to mention. Although the AMSOIL literature mentions the new cap for 2004 and later Dodge's, I did call AMSOIL tech dept and they confirmed it will fit older dodoges at least back to the 24 valve and maybe even the 12 valvers.

This picture shows the adapters. The lower left one is for the CTD 24V Engines.



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[steved]

I just bought a cap from Napa for $8 that is like the stock cap but doesn't have the ratchet mechanism.

Exactly what I did...



$50 for a billet cap? Damn...



steved

 

[Lube Man]

Exactly what I did...



$50 for a billet cap? Damn...



steved

Please explain if and how you modified the Napa cap for the bypass connection.

 

[steved]

Please explain if and how you modified the Napa cap for the bypass connection.

The $8 swivel fitting from Amsoil only requires drilling a 1/2" hole in the cap...



I got fancy, drilled AND tapped (tapping is not required) the Napa/Stant cap (which is a solid cap, not a ratcheting one).



Screwed the swivel fitting into the cap (with some sealant), then ran the included lock nut up inside the cap to secure it...



No leaks to date... I check the flow about every other fillup (meaning I unscrew the cap every other fillup)...



I believe the cap was $3 and the swivel was $8... so for $11... unless you really like billet...



EDIT: And, this was following AMSOIL'S instructions...



steved

 

[amsoilman]

The $8 swivel fitting from Amsoil only requires drilling a 1/2" hole in the cap...



I got fancy, drilled AND tapped (tapping is not required) the Napa/Stant cap (which is a solid cap, not a ratcheting one).



Screwed the swivel fitting into the cap (with some sealant), then ran the included lock nut up inside the cap to secure it...



No leaks to date... I check the flow about every other fillup (meaning I unscrew the cap every other fillup)...



I believe the cap was $3 and the swivel was $8... so for $11... unless you really like billet...



EDIT: And, this was following AMSOIL'S instructions...



steved

Steved,

Sorry, but I must correct this post. The price on the Swivel Fitting from Amsoil Inc. is:$8. 50, and the size of the hole for the installation of the

BP-89 "swivel" fitting is 3/8 in. not 1/2 in.



My NAPA dealer also charges $10. 50 for the solid cap.



As far as cost, this is the way to go in my opinion. Just being honest here. Even tho the new Billit aluminum cap is nice looking, I can't justify the extra cost for it, and I install several of these a year.



Wayne'

amsoilman

 

[Nate]

I drilled a hole in it and used one of those Amsoil swivels.

Please explain if and how you modified the Napa cap for the bypass connection.

 

[steved]

Steved,

Sorry, but I must correct this post. The price on the Swivel Fitting from Amsoil Inc. is:$8. 50, and the size of the hole for the installation of the

BP-89 "swivel" fitting is 3/8 in. not 1/2 in.



My NAPA dealer also charges $10. 50 for the solid cap.



As far as cost, this is the way to go in my opinion. Just being honest here. Even tho the new Billit aluminum cap is nice looking, I can't justify the extra cost for it, and I install several of these a year.



Wayne'

amsoilman

Thanks Wayne... I couldn't remember if the hole was 3/8" or 1/2"... I didn't drive the truck today... the point was, you drill a hole in the cap.



As far as the prices, we are still talking under $20 to something that costs $50...



I fully agree, that aluminum piece looks good and would really go nice in someone's truck that had that billet effect going on. I'm not doggin on the quality, just the price... that is a nice looking piece.



The way LubeMan responded to that post was like he hadn't heard of using the swivel and drilling a cap for the return before...







steved

 

[Lube Man]

Thanks Wayne... I couldn't remember if the hole was 3/8" or 1/2"... I didn't drive the truck today... the point was, you drill a hole in the cap.



As far as the prices, we are still talking under $20 to something that costs $50...



I fully agree, that aluminum piece looks good and would really go nice in someone's truck that had that billet effect going on. I'm not doggin on the quality, just the price... that is a nice looking piece.



The way LubeMan responded to that post was like he hadn't heard of using the swivel and drilling a cap for the return before...







steved

I used the Amsoil 90degree swivel fitting. I had to take my original oil cap apart and take out the spring. Then I drilled through the main part of the cap and installed the fitting with a lock nut. I had to drill another hole through the threaded portion that came apart and then epoxy it back in place. The swivel fitting I received with the Amsoil bypass kit did not have a threaded section long enough to extend through both the main part of the cap and the threaded piece this requiring the glue job.

 

[steved]

I used the Amsoil 90degree swivel fitting. I had to take my original oil cap apart and take out the spring. Then I drilled through the main part of the cap and installed the fitting with a lock nut. I had to drill another hole through the threaded portion that came apart and then epoxy it back in place. The swivel fitting I received with the Amsoil bypass kit did not have a threaded section long enough to extend through both the main part of the cap and the threaded piece this requiring the glue job.

I had consider this too... right before I got the bypass, my ratcheting cap decided to quit ratcheting... when I got the swivel, I was going to simply fill the "hollow" spot in the ratcheting cap with epoxy (would have taken a bit)...



I decided to check on a replacement cap so I would have a backup incase I messed this one up... they handed me the "solid" cap, which is actually a single piece and still hollow, but it gives a perfect mounting surface for the swivel... the top is about 1/4" thick and the bottom is open... works perfect in the return fitting application...



I'll try to get a picture tonight...





steved

 

[steved]

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Here is the cap... it doesn't really show the "hollow" spot well, but you can get an idea...



steved

 

[Lube Man]

I had consider this too... right before I got the bypass, my ratcheting cap decided to quit ratcheting... when I got the swivel, I was going to simply fill the "hollow" spot in the ratcheting cap with epoxy (would have taken a bit)...



I decided to check on a replacement cap so I would have a backup incase I messed this one up... they handed me the "solid" cap, which is actually a single piece and still hollow, but it gives a perfect mounting surface for the swivel... the top is about 1/4" thick and the bottom is open... works perfect in the return fitting application...



I'll try to get a picture tonight...





steved

I just got back from Napa where I bought the one piece cap with hollow spot. When I went to take my old epoxied cap apart I found it was really glued together. Bopped it pretty hard with a hammer and the epoxy did not budge. So I took the easy way and decided to stay with the old cap and use the new cap as a spare after drilling a 3/8" hole through it.



The only reason I can think to consider spending 50 bucks for the Amsoil aluminum cap assembly is the possibility that the drilled plastic cap could conceivably fatigue over time since there is some relatively minor force exerted on it by the by-pass line. (Engine vibrates, other end of line doesn't. ) However, I don't think this risk is very great and if it did the worst thing would be it would develop a crack and their would be minor leaking.

 

[amsoilman]

Here is the Cap I use from NAPA. I also install an adapter fitting (from the BMK-11 Kit) to extend the swivel fitting further.



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This is what it looks like as the oil is passing through the cap.





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Wayne

amsoilman

 

[steved]

Since I had quite a bit of hose to work with, my return line literally lays on the top of the valve cover. I know I considered the same thing about the stress on the cap, but I have not heard anyone saying they had issues running it this way... the material the Napa cap is made of also appears pretty tough, it drilled and tapped nice.



Overall, my bypass setup looks like Wayne's... except it flows a little bit more oil than that... and the fact the filter is about 12 feet from the engine...



I don't know if you would literally "cook" your old cap to slightly soften the epoxy? It might spin out?



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I use the same setup as Wayne:



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- the cap itself is a Stant unit - #11111 I think - and I also added a short length of copper tubing to extend the drain down further into the rocker chamber to eliminate any blow-back leakage at the cap itself



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It all works great - and the price wasn't too hard on my Social Security check! :-laf

 

[CFAR]

I did basically the same thing steved did, except I used a quick disconnect air hos fitting on mine, 90 degree fitting in the oil cap, then a air hose fitting. The hose got the quick disconnect end, Hasn't leaked in 2+ years.