Here I am

New owner of a 97 5spd 4X4

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Front brake/ bearing problems

Bought MY first Cummins

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hi guys. I just bought a 97 CTD and am ready to BOMB it. I previously owned a 2000 model with a PM3 adjustable box & DD2 Injectors. This truck would haul a#*! My goal is to make the 97 run as good or possibly better. I was thinking a TST #10, 370 injectors, Exhaust, 4000rpm gov & valve springs, and larger delivery valves would do the job. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
Sound like you got a great truck!!!! Look at my sig... . Clutch is needed and my EGTs are too high right now at full throttle for any length of time. Time for a HX40 I guess.



They are FUN but very addicting!!!:eek: :D :eek: :eek:



Let me know if I can help... .



Dee
 
JTeague,



You win big with that pump! The difference between the plate center & all the way forward is 60hp or more than 120ft-lbs. The #11 will exceed the clutch all the way forward, so in your process for upgrading, the clutch will be needed.



I'd personally NOT do the #10 if you're going to tow. It's low end is way HOT, i. e. EGT. If you're going that high in hp/torque, consider starting with the #8, which is 10hp or so more than the #10, but doesn't have the brutal low end. If you figure the #8 starts out @ 340hp, then slid all the way forward is 400hp. Mine was slid 3/4 of the way forward, probably around 380hp or so. It worked very good for towing the 5'er. :D



Also, when you're talking that much fuel, you'll need to do something about the turbo to reduce backpressure & EGT. The info below is from TST some time ago, so the prices may not be valid.



The following TST Power Kits are offered for the '96-'98 12 Valve 215 hp Ram

Diesel 5 speeds:



Kit # Rated Power Peak Torque Price

Stock 215 hp @ 2600 rpm 440 lb-ft @ 1600

PK12 230 hp @ 2600 rpm 605 lb-ft @ 1600 $299

PK11 280 hp @ 2600 rpm 685 lb-ft @ 1600 $299 **

PK11* 300 hp @ 2600 rpm 700 lb-ft @ 1600 $475 **

PK10 330 hp @ 2600 rpm 750 lb-ft @ 1600 $299 **

PK10* 350 hp @ 2600 rpm 770 lb-ft @ 1600 $475 **



** Not certified for on highway use in North America



*Includes 16 cm2 turbine housing minus boost control



Note: The PK10 can only be used at full power about 30 seconds in each 5 minutes and is not for towing of any kind as turbine inlet temperature will be too hot.
 
Hey Drawson I just put a Piers preped 40 on my truck and it works very good!!! The truck is much better on the top end and with a truck that is properly fueled I have no problems with turbo lag at all. So far I have run it at 40psi and it just loves it.
 
4.8 plate

Thanks for your input Forrest. I see in your sig you have a 4. 8 plate. I was wondering how you like it? How hot does it get when you tow?
 
BPINE, I have a ported head just sitting waiting to be put on and have been weighing my options on 40s looking hard at Kurts qyick turbo just because of the my exhuast brake. I am also looking at getting a ATS manifold and porting it before it goes on.



Your running a #4 plate clue me in where does this put you power wise????
 
JTeague



The answer is, I don't know yet. I could get it to 1500 before advancing the timing & putting on the BHAF, but that's only with sustained WOT.



One thing is for sure though, you can regulate EGT with your right foot. Over fueling is regulatable. Is that a word? :) The HX40 is starved for air & the BHAF solves that & lowers EGT. Advancing the timing also helps, right in the seat of your pants & your EGT guage. :)



As EGT goes, for comparison, the #11 slid all the way forward, or the #8 centered, with stock timing & stock turbo, gets you to 1500 no problemo. With the HX40 & the #8 slid 3/4 of the way forward to 380hp or so, you can't get 1300 degrees. :) Cooooool, room for more fuel. :) Therefore, why mess around, pop in the #4 slid 3/4 of the way forward. Add advanced timing & the BHAF & you're back in the ballpark. You can have the clutch engaged & almost anywhere in the rpm range in 3rd or 4th, wot will break the tires loose. In 5th, be careful, things get squirrely. :D
 
Confused here?????????

Ok,,Now I'm lost here,,Don't use a #10 plate to tow due to high egt's????,,Yet you will tow with a #4 or #8 plate???,,How could this be possible??,,Correct me if I'm wrong here,but,since we all know the lower you go as far as plate numbers go the more agressive the fueling gets there is know way that this idea could work,,While I realize some are running the lower plate numbers for power I myself do not see how a 4 or 8 plate could possibly tow better as far as egts go,,Add the timing you suggest to a 10 plate with a good clutch and turbo and she'll get the job done and in the egt range you want,,The quest for useable power is always an endless one,which is where I get confused,,See even with the rpm kits out there why take a motor thats designed to make power in the 1200 to 2800 rpm range and twist her into orbit,above 3200 rpm(near where valve float starts that KILLS power)to make her go,,These trucks can make power in the designed range and make a nastier pulling machine in the end,,Move the max hp rpm closer to the max torque rpm lower in the rpm band and watch her rip the skins off your tires,,It can be done and without the rpm kit... ... .
 
You guys really want to have some fun, take the plate out of the pump and then throw it as far as you can. Then put the pump back together, advance the timing to about 26deg. , then drive the truck. Oh by the way you might want to go to a bigger turbo, say maybe an H2E. :D:D:D

Don
 
JTeague,

The 191 delivery valves will make a little more power than your stock 181's, however I personally would put that money towards a turbo. If you make the fueling changes you described, you will be in desperate need of a turbo. I think your money would be better spent on the turbo rather than the delivery valves. I easily peg my guage at 1500 deg and I am running an HX-40 (I still have the small 175 pump too).



Big_DQ,

I hear of more and more people running without plates. You can modify your plate to allow for full rack travel whereas removing the plate leaves you with a one dollar pin stopping movement at full travel. Either way you get full travel, but by leaving the plate in it eliminates any chance of breaking the pin on the rack. I don't know what the odds are of this pin breaking but I know that I would rather have the plate stop travel than the pin (still getting full travel either way).



my . 02
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top