New owner of an 06 megacab. What do I need to know"?

[AnOldBiker]

Thanks, but The specs I look for is the micron rating. I guess I wasn't clear enough for that. I have yet to call the manufactures, since in the past the couple of times I call, they didn't answer.
But the specs I look for is the micron rating, specifically the 'Absolute' ratings. As I said, Baldwin didn't have either the nominal or absolute, but Donaldson did, (not stating nominal or absolute) and Wix did, but the nominal ratings.
This is why I have a hard time in the past when someone said a specific filtering spec for Baldwin.

 

[AH64ID]

All the numbers I posted, in this thread and others, are absolute unless stated otherwise.

The rating on Donaldson's site is absolute, and Wix lists both. I have compiled several contacts at Baldwin over the years from filter research, and Fleetguard has a tech hotline.


http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-tech-articles/150422-3rd-gen-popular-fuel-filter-data.html

 

[kschitoskey]

I had very similar experiences as the other posters. Had to replace ball joints/idler arm/steering box at 60K, A/C door issues and multi function switch. Otherwise 102K and running like a top. Like it a lot better than my wife's 2010 CTD. Can't beat the 5.9 IMHO

My favorite mods: Isspro gauges (EGT, Boost, Trans Temp), Amsoil in diffs / t-fer case; Fleetguard Stratopore filters and Costco Delo 400; steering box stabilizer, Geno's console cup holder and of course Seat Savers. Toyo Open Country 285 75 R 17s look just right without lifting.

You got a great truck; first year of the best cab, last year of the best engine. Enjoy!

 

[AnOldBiker]

There are 2 cheap and simple mods that I make for each vehicle I've ever owned and I notice many don't do them.

When the vehicle is high, like a 4x4, they don't buy steps to enter or leave the vehicle.
Then when selling, it seems the old saying is "the seats are normally worn like this on all old trucks".
But I have never had thrashed seats because of this.

Then there is the simple item like a dash cover.
The old saying is "the dash is cracked as normal on a vehicle this age".
But I have never had a thrashed dash because of this.

We spend a ton of money on our vehicles, but for these ? Most never consider them.
Just a few bucks spent at the beginning, and no issues from then on.
Seems like a cheap investment from the get go, then the mega bucks for the rest.

 

[RVTRKN]

No one has mentioned the G56 you have as the Manual Transmission, how many miles are on the clutch and is it the original clutch? The DMF (dual mass flywheel) can fail and most high mileage G56's have failed or are ready to fail. Mine was still intact at 48K, but lost the clutch due to the regen programing (07 6.7 C&C) and when removed for a SMF (single mass flywheel) was still in good shape but once you have any clutch issues you should replace it with a SMF.

 

[AlanWilson]

Hi all. Congrats to the group, you're reading my first post. '06 3500 Quad with 137,000. Bought it from a general contractor in Feb 2011 with 107K on it, so I'm still learning. Replaced all tie rods at 120K after one broke at highway speed. Good to know the tire won't dump. I later found out that it's common to upgrade the tierod assembly with an 09 assembly that will provide better steering and longevity. I heard that Dodge actually recommends this and I would have done it had I known. Replaced ball joints and axle shaft u joints last weekend. All were shot. Small transmission leak on the upper passenger side of the cooler. Looks like there is at least one forum post on that topic. More annoying than problematic. Front brakes and rotors were replaced just after I bought it. Getting ready to work on the rear. Truck has an after-market computer chip. The seller handed me the programmer with a sticky note on it that says "Don't screw with it." I haven't and I get an average of 23 mpg during the summer.

According to my diesel shop, non of the above is unexpected. Previous owner had a snow plow which explains the front end work. Ball/u-joint replacements are expected since we spend most of the long winter in 4wd. Driver seat cushion sucks, but I've heard that this generation of Ram is not kown for their seat cushions. All-in-all, great truck and really pleased with it.

Al

 

[Regcabguy]

Seat covers and a rug on the dash from new. GDP filtration and a Smarty Sr. with the latest tune. Just wish I could get 23 mpg empty.

 

[AlanWilson]

Forgot to mention the CP3 pump went out last winter at approximately 120k miles. Had it hauled in to a local shop after all my attempts to get it running failed and they did the diagnosis and replacement. Cost 2K for that piece of work. I now run 1oz of RPB with each tank of gas. I've posted this on the Lubricant's forum. I haven't done much reasearch on this, but according to my diesel guru, the Gen 3 5.9 engine is susceptible to this due to a lack of lubrication from the fuel and require some type of additive for longevity. Other posts may disagree, so I'm still educating myself.

 

[RVTRKN]

Magical Mystery oil is great for a fuel additive for lubricating the fuel system, but leave the fuel alone with the 6.7 CTD.

 

[cerberusiam]

Magical Mystery oil is great for a fuel additive for lubricating the fuel system,

No, it is not. It is a great fuel system cleaner but not so good at lubrication. MMO uses a stoddard solvent base and additives that are essentially high deterbent cleaners. Works great for cleaning out varnish or buildups from less than adequate fuel but not good for long term use.

 

[RVTRKN]

"ADDED TO GAS OR DIESEL:
Marvel Mystery Oil® lubricates the entire fuel system-fuel pumps, fuel injectors or carburetors and the top-portion of the cylinders. These are areas, that by design, motor oil does not reach. Using Marvel Mystery Oil® in your fuel extends the life of these vital components by providing them with lubrication that fuel alone does not provide."

Well I've used MMO for years and used it as a 10wt oil, as fuel additives and oil additives, never had any problems and freed up sticking hydraulic lifters. I can't argue the chemical make up, but it has worked for me over the years and will continue to use it, BUT it's not good for the DPF.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Under heavy use, the case of the G56 stretches. A preventive maintenance rebuild by a good shop such as Std. Trans. in Fort Worth can keep it from breaking expensive parts later. Also see my column, Issue 68, p. 88 and Issue 71, p. 106.

 

[cerberusiam]

it's not good for the DPF.

Not good for the HPCR fuel system in large doses either, a bit like trying to run ATF as a cleaner\lube. Works fine with low pressure systems but not a good thing to use constantly with high pressure injection.

It does an excellent job keeping things cleaned up for sure, thats what it is good for.

 

[DNDracing]

I've got just over 176,000 miles on my 2005. Would reiterate what most have said on here. My biggest head ache has been in this order:

1. axle joints
2. ball joints

Axle joints were my biggest problem. Finally, at the advice of a few on this forum, I went with a set from Quad 4x4, and have been happy with them to date. I've only got about 20,000 miles on them, so jury is out on the durability, but the guys at Quad 4x4 were extremely helpful and knowledgeable about their products.

Second point of frustration was the ball joints. After replacing 3 sets in just over 100,000 miles, I spent the money and installed the Carli's a few weeks ago. We will see how those hold up.

The only item I had go wrong on my truck that wasn't maintenance, or some stupid "performance upgrade" I convinced myself I had to have was a corroded oil pan which I had to replace because a pin hole resulted in the pan rusting through. Search through my posts, and you will find the write up I did on that.

Here is a link to the axle joint:
http://www.quad4x4.com/product/40446/TK40446-TK-AXLE-U-JOINT-GR/

Here is a link to the ball joints
http://www.carlisuspension.com/dodge-ram/ball-joints/index.html

Looking back, the first time I had to replace axle joints and ball joints, I would have installed the parts that I listed above.

Good luck with the new (to you) truck.