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New paint-on sound proofing product....

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geusterman

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Four Wheeler had an article on sound deadening paint that caused me to write the manufacturer regarding our issues. Here is a response:



Dear Mr. Eusterman:

Thank you for your internet inquiry regarding noisy vehicles. I can give

you some information on the subject as it involves some of the products that

we represent and sell. First may I direct you to the September issue of "4

Wheeler" Magazine. There is a column called "Neat Stuff" where our noise

dampening product "NoiseKiller" was reviewed. This product takes the ring

out of sheet metal. If you have a sheet of metal and it gets impacted or

oscillated it will vibrate. If it vibrates with a frequency in the audible

range then we hear it. If you take a bucket and pour rocks into it there is

a tremendous clatter. If you coat the outside of the bucket with

NoiseKiller and then pour rocks into it then there is a remarkable deadening

of the clatter.



NoiseKiller's secret is its chemical make-up. It is a visco-elastic

material that will translate the vibration that normally makes noise into a

shuffling of molecules that do not return to their positions readily. The

energy is changed into heat. The result is a very small increase in

temperature ( a tenth of a degree or less ) and no noise. So for rattling

sheet metal, this is the product to use. It works well for body panels,

trunk areas, wheel wells, floorpans and such.



Your comments for lead sheathing will work, but it will dampen only by

changing the harmonic frequency a bit with the extra mass. NoiseKiller will

do the same to an extent because it also adds mass. (Specific gravity of

1. 6) but it really exceeds the lead sheathing performance because of the

visco-elastis properties. I'm guessing that the lead would have to be

glued, mechanically attached or sandwiched between floorpan and carpet

somehow.



Noisekiller is water-based, not lead based.

Once cured it is waterproof

It has fairly good undercoating properties

It is heat resistant

It can be applied via undercoating spray equipment or brush or roller

It treats about 40 square feet per gallon

You can paint over it

You really do need to remove all oil and grease to make sure that this

product sticks



Try to make the distinction between air born noise and structure born noise.

NoiseKiller and lead sheathing will only attack the structure born noise.



This is a fairly long disertation regarding this product. Please feel free

to call us at Memtech and speak with me or our consultants for how to

proceed. We shuld have reprints shortly on the 4Wheeler article available

and could advise further.



Thanks, Glen Easterbrook



-- email address removed --





As you can see, there is some potential here. I have written for availablity and prices and will post when received. George
 
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Greg!!! where are ya buddy?? This might be the BOMB!! Oo. We can paint over it too? Heck why don't we just bathe our trucks and motors in it. The only way we'll know they are running is that Black Cloud behind the whisper :D
 
Ive used spray on noise killer before on the inside of car doors to lower the vibration. It works fantastic. While I was at it I dyanamated the doors. It is an excellent bomb. The only way to use lead effectively is very very very expensive. You need a machine that makes it liquid and paints it on. You need to add about 300 or 400 lbs of lead to make your truck acoustically deadened. There will be no resonance. I am running a very loud system and have bought quite a bit of dynamat to put several layers on the entire interior of my truck. Im pulling the seats out and doing the floor and the roof also. Dynamat is great. Noisekiller and dynamat together is unbelievable.
 
EEEEEK

anyways I have used Noise killer Blue , Dynamat origional , extreme , and inbetween ... . Along with fozgates new "spray on" stuff as well. In my honest opinion NOTHING beats dynamat ... ... However dynamat is just that ... . a mat and generally cannot be conformed that well in Tight situations... ... ... ... ... ... . however noise killer does work , in fact quite well especially in a multi coat situation and is great for those hard to get to places. It is messy (if you are using air to apply) splatters easily and runs very easily but final setup looks great! you can use a roller to apply it with no ill effects. In the larger flat panel areas that generally will then be covered up by carpet or upholstery use dynamat or an equivelant as that won't degrade and flake and powder off like NKB when rubbed against by the material IE Carpet, trim , bracketry.



Hope that helps



EDIT:

Dynamat and mat type materials are generally known to be Asphault based which give the vibration / noise cancelling characteristic to dynamat which when heated is very pliable and holds its heat once applied to as urface so you can finish roll out any imperfections you may have and make a better adhesion process. NKB has an elasto~Polymer type property even tho its water based solids remain suspended in a layer when applied and then become your barrier. I agree with Big daddy and like i said before use the mat material on floors walls ceilings (I also did the entire back side of my door skins) as my system can push the Db envelope as well. The flip side is the in cab noise reduction in day to day driving that is the other reward
 
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I saw that in Four Wheeler as well; I don't have it in front of me, but I think it said it was $40-$50. Sounds interesting.



Pete
 
Y'all. Here is the response from the Noise Killer rep.



"We have the product in stock and the price is $48 per

gallon. Ships UPS in a plastic bucket in a box. Let

me know of any other requirements and we will be happy

to help. Thanks, Glen. . "



Well, I am ordering a gallon. That Cummins pan is my first attack I think. George
 
I see where it says it is heat resistant. I wonder if it will stand the heat of the exhaust system from downpipe back to tip.
 
I'm interested!

I would definitely like to hear the results from application of this product.



I think for me I would use it on the inside of the door panels, and rear corners of the cab. These are both a real pain to apply any panel deadener sheets or lead sheeting to.



I might try it on the underside of the cab floor since it is reported to be waterproof. The Dynamat type stuff I put on the underside of my floor keeps falling off, it can't stand the engine heated air blowing on it.



I wonder if it will hold up to the heat of the oil pan, maybe a coating over the lead sheeting on my oil pan will reduce the clatter even more?? Would be nice.



I think the lead sheet is still the best way to treat the floor and back wall of the cab on the inside. It really stops the tin can sound from the single thickness uninsulated metal panels. But if this paint-on product does the job, then it will get put to use in my truck!



Please let us know how well it works.



Greg L The Noise Nazi
 
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