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New Rig!! But got a concern.

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The Burb is on the road!

Questions about my 92' 3/4 ton Dodge/Cummins

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Congratulations Jason!

Nothing like a little Cummins Company for each other.

I had just replaced my Rear Main Seal back in Feb. and it was fairly straight forward except for all of the heavy parts that must be removed for access.

I did however remove the die cast aluminum seal retainer/carrier to press my seal in outside of the vehicle. This meant a few extra bolts and having to remove a few oil pan bolts in the rear of the pan but I felt better about this approach than procedure the service manual calls out. The manual calls for drilling & tapping sheet metal screws in the old seal for removal. I just knew I would slip w/ the drill and knick the crank.

Used Cummins parts & all is well.

Good Luck... .

Keeno

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1992 W250 5spd. 3. 54 gears, LSD, JRE enhanced VE Injector Pump, BD High Output Injectors, 12cm2 wastegated housing, 3 1/2" JRE modified Banks exhaust/Walker muffler, pyro/boost gages, K&N, South Bend Clutch, Skyjacker 2 1/2" front suspension lift & Bushwacker 'cut out' Flares to clear 315/75R/16 BFG AT KO's, Mag-Hytec, Amsoil, Rhino liner, Fully Chrominated Aluminum Aftermarket Accessory T-handle Shift Knob
 
Keeno,

The guy at the Cummins dealer said I had to remove the pan to get that gasket to let go of the retainer plate. If you had good luck getting the retainer plate out without totally buggering the gasket, it sounds like the route to go. I would like to get the seal in the housing on the bench rather than on my back.

J-eh
 
Well just made it back from Langley on Tuesday with a new addition to the family. Its in the signature.

The rig was pretty leak free till I got about 500 Km (312 Miles) down the road. Stopped for some Jo and saw a leak I didn't like... The rear main seal was weeping!
#ad

Now is where the Where-is As-is kicks in.

Anyway the guy was using Chevron Oil and I hope that clean change may help out a little.

The main question is, is the seal replacable with the engine in the truck or do you have to remove the pan???? Any advice at this point would help out in getting some sleep. #ad


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Jason Hoffman
93 D250LE CC 5 spd 3. 54 LSD. K&N. Banks Pyro/Boost gauges. E&M Custom seats. Bosch H4, PIAA 80W/80W HdLites. Cummins Power Booster member.
185,000 Km (115,625 Mi)

FOR SALE - 89 D250LE 5 Spd 3. 54 LSD Reg Cab. "tweaked pump", BD Injectors, 3. 5" Exst tail section straight.
237,500 miles (380,000 Kms) 7850 Hrs.
89 Pics/March 2001

[This message has been edited by Lil' Dog (edited 05-17-2001). ]
 
The search feature is great!!!!

Found good info on the seal and how many guys have had the same problem. Feel a little better, but my ol 89 never leaked a drop from that seal in 380,000 Km.

Glad to hear that the engine can stay put and you just have to pull the transmission. Time to get a good floor jack and go to Cummins for the seal kit# 3909410 that was in one of the threads.

I would still like to hear from anyone that has changed one.

J-eh
 
Hey Jason!

I talked w/ my local Cummins shop when I purchased the new seal kit and asked how they usually swap out rear main seals. He mentioned that they always prefer to pull off the seal retainer and install with a press even though Cummins doesn't pay for the extra labor.

It's true the retainer does tend to stick a bit due to both oil pan gasket and the gasket on the back of the retainer. I removed all of the bolts on the rear of the oil pan (4 or 5 of them attach directly to the bottom of the retainer) and used a small pry tool to lift the corner of the retainer and peel it off of the rear of the block. I must admit I did tap it w/ a brass hammer to break the stiction. R&R the seal.

The Cummins shop said to just cut out the portion of the oil pan gasket below the retainer/clean w/ brake cleaner & a seal with generous amounts of quality RTV. I used a new gasket on the back of the retainer, slide it over the crank journal and bolted it all back together.

No Leaks! Yeah Buddy!

Have a great weekend...
Keeno

PS: You're lucky - No transfer case removal

[This message has been edited by KEENO (edited 05-18-2001). ]
 
Thanks for the info Keeno, much appreciated. I'm feeling more confident about doing it myself and avoiding the huge shop charges.

(edit) Just wondering if I should install the sleave kit just for the heck of it or just hope that the new seal will work. Thoughts??


J-eh

[This message has been edited by Lil' Dog (edited 05-18-2001). ]
 
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