New Sachs clutch users: HELP!!

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I need several of you guys to go find a sled, hook up to that baby and slip the clutch while holding about 2100 rpm, as you take off.

Do this once a week for 6 weeks please.

The results will let me know by spring if I want to buy one or not.

I will send you a plaque that says,

" I was the GLTDR's Guinea Pig!"

I'll send a case of Iron City or Rolling Rock, your choice, to cry with, or celebrate the fine clutch choice you have made!
Thank You,


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WANTED: Wrecked Dodges. 1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 Bombed & Amsoiled
Member of TDR,LIC-ROC,GLTDR,NRA www.awdist.com

 

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A friend of mine has been running Joe's modified Sachs clutch set up for over a year now. His truck is a 98 12v 3:54 gears dually running 37" Coyote tires And he does light all four of them up on a regular basis, plus pulls a heavy trailer. His engine has been tweaked by someone #ad
and the clutch is holding up good #ad


[This message has been edited by Piers (edited 11-17-2000). ]

 

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After my ride in Joe's truck the Sachs will be in mine come spring. His clutch did slip once early on and then nothing. He says it's slips until it warms up one slip and it was warm.

It's a pretty cool ride almost worth admission. LOL

 

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Piers... wonder who that "someone" is???

 

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Can you Sachs users pls post some URL's for your sources?

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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, HX40-16, TST #11/280 slid + 300 HP Injectors.
4" CAT back & CATless, 4" chrome turn down straight out back.
ISSPRO Pillar, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, K&N, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, 235s on Alcoas, Rancho 9000's, Valentine One.
Un-Bombed = Boring

 

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Texas,
That vibration, you are finally FEELING the power!
The price to pay for performance!

Hope it's not a problem. Was it fun swapping it in?

Gene

 

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Did the vibe start after the 370's??
Mine vibrates now or at least it sorta lopes at idle and gets better with a few revs. My wife can't even notice it but i'm real sensitive to engine "music".

I'm not familiar with the Sachs but on most clutches the only reason for centering is to allow the trans pilot shaft to be able to slip in during assy. It should have no bearing on vibration. Once it's in and you step on the clutch pedal it will perfectly center itself on the pilot shaft. Maybe someone who is familiar with the Sachs can confirm this.

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1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exh, 4"BD, MagHytec, 85gal fuel, K&N RE0880, AutoMeter, 370's, BD gov kit, BD afc kit, yada-yada-yada
www.fostertruck.com/cummins

 

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The Sachs does need to be centered because the pressure plate doesn't have two undersized holes like the LuK. However the farthest it could be out is about 0. 020-0. 025"; that should be quite noticeable at idle. Around 2000 rpm you may or may not feel it due to the vibrations etc. inherent in our diesels. The machined surface at the outer edge of the pressure plate is often either a bit imperfect or the calipers are hard to hold perfectly. I usually get measurements of +/- 0. 001 or 0. 002" all around from the edge of the flywheel to the edge of the pressure plate, and that is close enough. I would not want the plate to be measurably off center.
To check centering, put the edge of the vernier caliper (the end beyond 6") against the outer rim of the flywheel, and let the "tongue" slide along the machined surface and touch the machined edge of the pressure plate. Keep the caliper "square" meaning pointing out along the radius of the circle from the center, and level with the machined surface of the flywheel that the clutch rubs against. Admittedly I have one a few of these clutches, but I can get them "right on" without much trouble, as explained in the tips I send out with a clutch.

You didn't try to hang the trans off the disk splines with the input, did you? If you get any weight on the input, it could bend--at least I have heard of the older Mopar 435 doing that. Was everything clean and no dirt or stuff got wedged between machined parts like flywheel and crank, or bellhousing and block plate? One bracket for the fuel lines loves to get caught between the bellhousing and the block plate. If it was dark you might not notice and crunch down the bellhousing on it, creating a misalignment.
Hope this helps
Joe

[This message has been edited by Joseph Donnelly (edited 11-19-2000). ]

 

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I thought I was set on LuK(kevlar/ceramic) clutch I was going to buy in the next couple of weeks,however I'm reading all the Sachs info with very much interest. Which vendors sell the Sachs clutch... South Bend Clutches?

-Mike

 

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It takes just one short look at the Luk and the Sachs clutches side by side to tell which one has the best quality and is more heavy duty. Sachs all the way.

 

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I have a Luk Pro gold in my truck right now and it doesn't hold and my truck is just a puppy compaired to Joe's Sickly

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EAT'M UP
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54, Forrest Green/Driftwood, LSD 5 speed, & Psychotty Air System, TST #11, 370 HP injectors, timing at 16 deg. , 16CM2 housing, AFC spring kit, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, TST EGT gauge & 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down, AmsOil Through out, Geno's trans filter kit, AmsOil Bypass system, Lund Winter front, Leer Cab Level Shell Driftwood , 255/85R16, Dyno'd 342 HP pre injectors & turbo housing *NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*

 

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Thanks for the update and positive comments, MDW. I mention in the installation tips to use the back end of vernier calipers to make sure the clutch is centered perfectly, but I may need to emphasize this procedure better. You should try for 0. 001-0. 002" maximum runout, as you did the second time.

 

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I had hoped for my new clutch to go in right after the first of the year after I finally pick one.

Just wanted to know why the transmission shaft doesn't center the discs like in conventional clutches? Or is it the whole assembly that bolts to the flywheel,that you're centering? If there's that much play in it to begin with, what keeps it from getting out of line later on with the amount of torque that this clutch has to endure.

Please explain.

 

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We are centering the pressure plate. In 1989-93 the flywheel had a step to center the Sachs; the hold down bolt holes in the pressure plate are a bit oversize and it uses 8 bolts in 5/16 x 18 thread. In 1994up there is no step but two bolt holes in the stamped pressure plate hat (LuK clutch) are small so the shoulder of the capscrew barely goes through, and the bolt's shoulder also indexes in the flywheel bolt hole, from which the first 2-3 threads were drilled out.
From the above, you can see that the Sachs needs to be manually centered on the 94-up flywheel. Once that is done, the bolts clamp it tight and it can't move--indeed if it could, it could slip on the 89-93 wheel as well. Similarly, the clamp load holds the flywheel from spinning on the crank. If it could get moving, it would shear the bolts.
Just to be sure, I use high grade bolts for extra clamping, and make sure the feet of the pressure plate and the surface of the flywheel are clean and dry.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Donnelly (edited 11-26-2000). ]

 

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Joe, do I understand correctly that the 99's need a different flywheel? And would the '89 to '93's work?

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99 2500 QC, LWB, 5spd, 3. 54 limited slip, Intense Blue, 275HP Injectors
Tow Lite trailer
96 KTM 360 EXC
99 Durango 4x4 360cid

 

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I posted some pictures of the clutch MDW installed in his truck. Check it out!!!!

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Curtis Harris

"JAWS"(The Great White)
Updated 11/19/00
1997 Club Cab Dualie
correctly valved 5 speed. White, Brown Manf. brushguard and rear bumper,Sprayed in liner, Stock plate and AFC properly adjusted. That's all for now. More to come.

 

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daaaaaaaaaam..... that pig is huge!

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97 2500 4x4 3. 54 5spd, TST, 4inch exhaust, 235/85 Michelins, 23+mpg!

 

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MDW, I was wondering what happend with your delema, Glad to hear you got things sorted out.

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1997 2500 Ext Cab 4X4,5 spd,3. 54's,Pac brake,Rancho 9000's,Centerforce clutch,K&N airfilter,Missing Cat,Isspro gauges,and #11plate(280hp/680tq)AFC medium spring

 

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Jetson, if you have an 89-93 the Sachs is a direct bolt-in as the "parent" Sachs in stock form was used in those Rams. For 98-up Rams the center recess is bigger and around 1/4" of the facing hangs over into the recess if you use the organic facing. Very little hangs over with the brass pucks. So, you could use the later (98 up five speed) flywheel either way but it is more compatible with the brass friction material. The "best" flywheel on the 2nd gen Rams would be the 1994-7 part, but it is not a real big deal. It's just that some folks are running so much torque that every last big of friction area helps.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Donnelly (edited 11-29-2000). ]

 

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Originally posted by MDW:
I would highly recommend the clutch as I inspected it while I had it out and the disks had only broken in to the point that only half of the pads were touching and that thing has been able to hold ALL the power that I have while pulling a 26' enclosed trailer at WOT with no slipping.

Are you running the organic facing or the brass pucks?

Thanks,

Pete



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'97 2500 CC 4X4 5spd Sport
'83 K5 Blazer 350 TBI (ex 6. 2), 39. 5 TSLs, 3" lift, Dana 60/GM 14 blt, Detroits