new starter price

[vinconco]

I heard (second hand) that a starter cost over $500. 00 ... any truth to this story?

 

[HEMI®Dart]

That sounds about right. You can get a nice rebuilt Nippondenso for about $230 from a local chain auto parts store.



Daves Diesel has them NEW? for $295. That's cheap!



http://www.davesdiesel.com/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?9X357758

 

[Deezul1]

Quite often all that is needed is solenoid contacts at about $25. 00 and real easy to do, Hope thats what you need and not a starter.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

FWIW:



I wholeheartedly agree with Deezul 1, the CTD literally only has to turn over what seems like 1/2 a revolution and it's started and idling. So with many miles on the clock... . the contacts see lots of use and abuse while the starter motor itself isn't getting the poop beat out of it.



Mine cranks longer than most..... I bet I have to hold the key for a second or two. Here goes a really bad attempt at an audible description of how it sounds: it goes..... "torwlll, ti, ti, ti" and then fires and idles. Most CTD trucks go: "torwlll" and then fire and idle.



I'm thinking I have some minor problems with my CTD... . but I don't trust anyone to touch it but me, and I'm still learnin'!



Matt

 

[Cooker]

HoleshotHolset,



Mine takes a little longerto fire than I think most describe. It seems like others claim they turn the key for 1/2 a revolution of the motor an it fires up. First thing in the morning mine definitely turns over a few times, and when warm it takes less time, but still more than most.



It seems like mine used to fire immediately. I thought I had a very high idle (~900) and ever since I started messing with it, the truck has taken a few more revs to start. My warm idle is about 750-800 right now.



I don't mind a few more revs, it gives the bearings a bit more of a chance to get a little oil before putting a "load" on them from the running motor.



I think I will bump up the idle before winter though. It will make it easier to start on those really cold days when I can't plug 'er in.



-Ryan

 

[vinconco]

Thanks for the replies. My starter still works and judging from the search I did before I started this post, starters are not a problem area. I was concerned when I heard what a friend of a friend paid though.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Here is a thought

The day I bought my truck the starter went out as they were moving it for me to come and get, they put one on it at there cost($232) I later found out on this board that it was probably the contacts(It was staying inguaged) they have the contacts at Napa fot $25. 00 or so as was mentioned before.



Jim

 

[Skydiver]

Interesting topic!

Sounds like another good reason to press the go pedal about 1/3 the way down when starting. Mine cranks after 1 revolution.

I'll guess the starter pulls about 1200 amps.

1200amps x 12volts= about 15000 watts of energy. Now that's hot!!I see why the contacts get cooked.

Tim

 

[Gumbs77]

When I got my truck, the contacts were bad. Cost me less than 8$ for new ones at my local starter rebuild place and about hour of my time. Popping the starter out is no big deal. The best thing to do is pop it off and take it apart. Just look out for the little ball on the other end of the spring. (you'll see) and if you need contacts it's eser to bring them in to the store then try and get part #'s. You can just walk in and say I need these. Hope that helps. Good luck and have fun.









Jim

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I have never even put my foot on the throttle while starting it the whole time I have owned the truck... .

Interesting.....

I don't mind the extra time spent turning it over... . it's still a lot less than any gasser I have ever owned... . plus I'm not annoyed by the lack of power like I was with some gassers I've driven.

When my starter poops the bed, I'm going to take it and have it rebuilt... . it looks original and with a lot o' miles and a lot o' years on it... . I figure that's the least I can do.



Matt

 

[Timinator]

First, the starter rebuild kit is a great value. Less than $30 from Diesel Electric.

Second, call every auto parts store you can. I did, and found starters ranging from $130 to over $400. Guess which one I bought. I also bought the rebuild kit and kept the old starter as a spare since there was only a $15 core charge. Shop around!

 

[HoleshotHolset]

FWIW: I tried the "hold your foot on the throttle while starting" thing... . and it cranked over like 1/2 a turn... just like the 24-valve that I have a lot of hours logged on.

I bet I didn't even hold the throttle pedal down a 1/4" of an inch... . it doesn't take much.

My idle seems fine..... but I could be wrong.



Matt - letting my CTD take as long as it wants to crank/idle, unless I deem it necessary to have a really quick start. I'm just glad I have NO GLOWPLUGS!!!!

 

[QRTRHRS]

FWIW, if your engine does not fire right up with no fuel but does with the throttle slightly cracked then you may have a leak in the fuel lines somewhere.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

that's possible too... .

After last night's adventure where the sucker made me want to kick it... ... it made a HORRENDOUS screeching sound that wouldn't stop right after I started it and let it idle... ... I even took the keys right out of the ignition and it still ran and made the nasty noise..... it stopped on it's own, eventually (30 seconds. )

time to pray to the Cummins gods for forgiveness... .



Matt

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

IF my Cummins DOESN'T start on the FIRST piston coming up on compression, *I* know I have a problem!



Mine NEVER turns a complete revolution to start - never HAS, except when I had a bad battery once... And I NEVER touch the throttle to get it started...

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Ahh... . I'll fix it when it's broke. I don't smell any leaking fuel, or have any loss in power... . so I'll drive it until it breaks and rebuilt it stronger.



Matt