New strange 12v electrical problem

[Archive]

The old '95 did something new tonite. It did this once the other evening, but straitened up right away. Anyway, tonite I cranked it up and it started right away as usual. However, the volt gauge showed an emense draw of juice, like it does when the heating grid activates on a cool morning. I watched it for about 10 seconds to see if it would stop and it didn't. I then decided to shut it off and restart it to see if the problem would reset. I turned the key off and #ad
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it kept running! I turned the key off and on a few more times and it kept running. I popped the hood to investigate but by the time I got the hood up, just like that everything went back to normal. I can't get it to repeat the problem, so far. I tried to get in contact with Moulder and Scully but they were out so ya'll will have to do #ad
The only things I have done fairly recently is replace the fuel shut off solenoid and the relay (double relay on the firewall) but that has been a month or two ago. I'm wondering if I might have gotten a bad relay? Any ideas or is this thing just an unsolveable X-File?

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95 2500 SLT Laramie 3. 54, automatic,Herculiner bed liner, JVC cd out of factory infinity system, southwest grill gaurd (a favorite amongst the deer population), K&N, AFC adjusted, dual straight exhaust out of "gutless" cat, Geno's dual EGT/boost gauge, TST #6 plate slid all the way forward, AFC housing slid all the way forward, silencer ring removed
"Layin' the 'SMOKEDOWN' on their ROOdy Poo CANDY GASSERS!"

 

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Sure you weren't dreaming about your unstopable Ram?Things like that are very hard to figure till they start happening more often.

 

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Have you tried refilling your radiator with holy water? You might also think about getting a Priest to stop by.

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1995 2500 4X2 Std. cab SLT

 

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Danandme,

It sounds like your starter hung up. Iv`e been through this. Checked or replaced everything. Replaced the starter. No problems since. If it does it again, disconnect the fuel shut down solenoid connection. If the engine dies, but starters still crankin, you`ll know its the starter. be prepared to be able to disconnect the batteries or the starter connection if you can`t get the starter stop. Not a fun situation #ad


Lots of good info in this thread: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum1/HTML/002117.html

Here too: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum1/HTML/002895.html
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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 12-07-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

the fuel shut-off seld. is starting to go bad. Better plan on getting a new one.

 

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Had this same problem earlier this year. The contact plates in the starter solenoid were burned and would sometimes stick and leave the starter running. Engine would not turn off!

New (rebuilt) starter was installed in July and no problem since then.

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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3300 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
108,000 miles and counting.

 

[Archive]

Had a non TDR guy who was lurking the site email me right after I began this thread to tell me this same thing (thanks Owen). Today I yanked the starter off and took the backing plate off the solenoid and sure enough, the contacts are toast. I've got replacement contacts and a new plunger coming on the bus tomorrow to install this weekend. Alot cheaper fix than replacing the whole starter. I cleaned the plunger and contacts up as best I could with emory cloth to get me by until I can get it tore back apart Sunday. To guys who say this is a "pay" site, I say, "Bull. " This site saves me ALOT more money than $35 measly bucks a year.

[This message has been edited by danandme (edited 12-08-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Danandme,

This is NOT a pay site for sure! The mag is what the $35 buys. This site is just an extra goodie for TDR mag member/subscribers. The mag is worth the $35 if you don't even know about this site. Every issue since #11 (my first) has had something in it that payed for the mag. For example, the article about flushing the brake system in the latest will save me more than that easy. Anyway, I second your "BULL" to those who call this a pay site! #ad
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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Archive]

I agree with you Joe Web site is just a bonus to the TDR publication. Web is faster for trouble shooting problems and letting off some steam. But Publication has valuable information in it.

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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000

 

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danandme: Where did you get the starter repair parts from and what did they run?

 

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Just my $0. 02, this site has saved me many $'s & even more time. I Can't say thanks enough to all the folks that have helped me with the inevitable problems that occur with any 100K machine.

Salute!!!!!

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Gene Earl, White '97' 3500 Laramie SLT, Ext Cab, LB, 5 SPEED, 4. 10 Limited Slip, 4X4. Isspro Boost and Pyro, (pre-turbo), SW Fuel pressure, in a 3 guage A-Pillar mount. No muffler. K&N filter. (it's a start).

 

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I agree. This is the best $35 bucks I ever spent. . Beats the hell out of my K&N air fliter!

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1997 3500 Dually CC, Emerald Green 5 speed, 4:10 , Reese 15K 5th hitch, (K&N Air Filter removed), Jacob E-brake, gutted cat, running boards. Maybe more,if I can keep it out of DC'$ hands. . Have aux. fuel/tool box in the works.

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by LandShark:
danandme: Where did you get the starter repair parts from and what did they run?

Weathersby electric in San Angelo. New plunger and contacts ran in the area of 30 or 40 dollars I think, I left the ticket at work. Tore it all apart and got it fixed back today. Whoever was at the factory in charge of installing the starter really torqued it down, too. I have 105,000 miles but mostly highway and like I said, the contacts were totally toast. If you have 100,000 miles or more I recomend replacing the contacts and plunger as a matter of maintainance. It's cheap insureance. The little Nippon Denso gear reduction type unit our trucks come with should last about as well as the cummins motor, as far as the actual starter motor part of it. One last thing, you will have to pull the starter and get the number off of it to order the parts.

 

[Archive]

Scaned your post did'nt see where you stated your starter was still running???/
Should it happen again pop the hood and seperate the weather pac conn. As i remember three wire's--------one connector----- about half way between the fuel filter/front of eng. --top/driver side -red/white/black--going to front of eng,if it still runs NOT the shut off relay which you said you replaced. Conn. Around and to the eng side of the brake fluid resv.
Then check to see if the fuel sol linkage is is in the down pos. (pull down by hand if not in that position) If it kills eng. New sol- if not $$ (has to get fuel from some where--Oil from turbo. ???


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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.