Hey guys, it looks like a DTT stator because it is a DTT stator. We have aftermarket vendors that do buy versions of our stator. We are in business to make money . So sometimes we do sell some of our products to some of our competitors. It is business. We know that DTT has the highest rated parts out there. So some of our competitors will buy parts from us when they have an application that require our knowledge and parts. Do we sell them the same versions that run in our customer application trucks. NO WE DO NOT. DTT runs a complete system, it is a complete transmission system. Most guys look at this dodge transmission like the converter is the weak link and the sole issue faced by the dodge transmission. We have never looked at it like that . The fluid coupling sucks , thats a driveability issue and we deal with it. As far as your converter being a 1400 stall converter , I already know that is not so.
When we sell a stator to any competitor we will let them know what the stall speed is. The stall speed on your truck is over 2700 rpms with the version stator you are showing in the posted in your picture , how to verify this is to turn on your water meth, turn on your power full boar , make sure your truck is up to temp. lock the parking brake and hold the foot brake down as hard as you can on the brake pedal , then get on it hard and heavy. Your stall test should be done at approx. 40 lbs of boost with the power level that you have. By the way ****** when we do R&D on stall speeds we brake a lot of factory shafts so unless you have the proper shafts dont do the true stall test method as described. When you are measuring the stall speed of a converter it is the point of where the engine rpms can no longer climb and you have reached max. boost that your engine is capable of making in fluid coupling. That is the true stall speed of your converter.
We do this type of testing because we are paid by our customers to have this type of data before we sell them components. Do we recommend that our customers do this no, but then again we do not advertise stall speeds as described above becuase we know that is not so. What we do is offer a way customers can safely figure out their tc's efficiency.
Do one dyno pull in fluid coupling , then a second with the TC locked up. The the difference in hp will give you a pretty good indication of the efficiency of your TC.
2nd method / Take your truck down the quarter mile, first time do it with the TC clutch disengaged. 2nd time use your lock up switch.
The difference in the mph between the two passes will give you a pretty good indication. The difference in ET will also give you a pretty good indication. We prefer the method of mph vs rpm but both methods will give you a pretty close idea.
*** again, we DO NOT recommend that general consumers do the true stall test method as it can prove to be very explosive, and expensive . We have a special transbrake equipped transmission we use for testing stall speed . And no we do not sell transbrakes for the Dodges so please dont phone us for one. Havent you guys ever wondered why I could launch T. Berry's truck at 35 lbs of boost in Muncie to put his truck in the 12's (1998. 5 24V, 5" of lift, 37" tires, no drugs), or guys like OPIE that gets 1. 5 60 ft. times launching at close to 40 lbs of boost Its all about the converter holding back the cummins motor under full boost type conditions, the tires planting, the transmission shafts holding ect. it not any one item, its about a systems
When we sell a stator to any competitor we will let them know what the stall speed is. The stall speed on your truck is over 2700 rpms with the version stator you are showing in the posted in your picture , how to verify this is to turn on your water meth, turn on your power full boar , make sure your truck is up to temp. lock the parking brake and hold the foot brake down as hard as you can on the brake pedal , then get on it hard and heavy. Your stall test should be done at approx. 40 lbs of boost with the power level that you have. By the way ****** when we do R&D on stall speeds we brake a lot of factory shafts so unless you have the proper shafts dont do the true stall test method as described. When you are measuring the stall speed of a converter it is the point of where the engine rpms can no longer climb and you have reached max. boost that your engine is capable of making in fluid coupling. That is the true stall speed of your converter.
We do this type of testing because we are paid by our customers to have this type of data before we sell them components. Do we recommend that our customers do this no, but then again we do not advertise stall speeds as described above becuase we know that is not so. What we do is offer a way customers can safely figure out their tc's efficiency.
Do one dyno pull in fluid coupling , then a second with the TC locked up. The the difference in hp will give you a pretty good indication of the efficiency of your TC.
2nd method / Take your truck down the quarter mile, first time do it with the TC clutch disengaged. 2nd time use your lock up switch.
The difference in the mph between the two passes will give you a pretty good indication. The difference in ET will also give you a pretty good indication. We prefer the method of mph vs rpm but both methods will give you a pretty close idea.
*** again, we DO NOT recommend that general consumers do the true stall test method as it can prove to be very explosive, and expensive . We have a special transbrake equipped transmission we use for testing stall speed . And no we do not sell transbrakes for the Dodges so please dont phone us for one. Havent you guys ever wondered why I could launch T. Berry's truck at 35 lbs of boost in Muncie to put his truck in the 12's (1998. 5 24V, 5" of lift, 37" tires, no drugs), or guys like OPIE that gets 1. 5 60 ft. times launching at close to 40 lbs of boost Its all about the converter holding back the cummins motor under full boost type conditions, the tires planting, the transmission shafts holding ect. it not any one item, its about a systems
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