Here I am

New to 24v Diesel

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Boost Problem Found.

New brake bleeder valves in Geno's catalog

Status
Not open for further replies.
This is my first diesel truck. The truck has 700 miles and 1 week old, after reading all the info on TDR not sure what is the first thing to do. Few Questions? I plan on changing the oil & filter at 3000k , I planned on using fleetgard for the filter or ? , not sure what oil Rotella or delvac ?. I know not synthetic till 20k. Need some help with the basics to get started:confused:

Thanks
 
First off,welcome to the TDR !



The Fleetguard filters are among the best,so you should have no problems,except maybe getting the first filter off. Get a good strap wrench,and you'll be fine. Do a search and you'll fine all kinds of tips for that first oil change. Just be sure not to overtorque and fracture the drain plug.



Rotella and Delvac,are both great oils,you can't go wrong with either,apart from the smell of the Rotella. I use the Valvoline Premium Blue 2000,which is a semi-synthetic and is fine to break in on,and Fleetguard filters,because the are readily available here and a good price. . Again a search will turn up a million opinions on oils. Any GOOD brand name diesel oil will be fine for now,then move to a full synthetic later.



For now,just get used to the truck and enjoy it ! Good luck and enjoy
 
JJ, welcome to the TDR :)



As many will also tell you, the very first mods (BOMBs) to your truck should be a quality EGT (used to be called pyrometer) and turbo boost gauge. If you *ever* do any power enhancements BOMBs to your truck, you will need these two gauges to make sure you do not melt pistons or cause other serious engine damage. Besides, it's always nice ot know what your engine is doing, even if it always remains purely stock.



And if you can keep it that way for long, you have much more will power than most of us :D You will quickly see that the BOMBitis disease affects most of us to one level or another. "Once you start down the dark path, forever will it dominate your destiny" as Master Yoda said ;)



Enjoy a great truck!



Tom
 
Remove the airbox when you change the oil filter. If it's like mine, just loosen the hose clamp on the turbo and pull up on the airbox it will slip right off and you will have much more room to work.
 
I'll use Fleetguard or Wix filters on my truck. I personally use Chevron Dello, but have nothing personal against the Rotella et al.



When changing the oil be sure to put a gallon size ziploc bag around the old oil filter before you loosen in so that any oil that spills will get caught in the bag and not make a mess on the top of the a/c compressor.



If you don't want to remove the air box, at least take off the rubber hose between the box and the turbo. It makes the job much easier.



Be careful not to short out the charging post on the back of the alt when you are wrestling with the oil filter. Doing this will blow a fuse that may be hard to find on a sunday afternoon (Don't ask :mad: ) and will cause the charging system to stop functioning.



Some people have broken the drain plug by tightening it too tight based on some inaccurate information about it's torque rating. Somone else will have to post the torque value for it, I've always just tightened it "tight enough"...



Good luck and enjoy your Ram Diesel,

Mike
 
break in

welecome to the wonderfull world of turbo diesel. it sounds like you are on the right track. use the fleetguard filters and any good diesel rated oil till it is broke in (I use the delo, mostly because its available at sams and wally world). I don't think there is any magic number for your break in period. it will depend on how you drive, what you haul and/or tow. but if you pay a little attention I think you can "feel" when it properly "broke".



good advice on the gauges, shop around get some good ones that suit your style. good luck with the truck!;)
 
new truck

as the others say, welcome. i'm still relatively new to the ram diesel, not to diesels, however. i posted a thread a week or so ago you might enjoy..... addiction. btw, changing the oil earlier than 3k is not a bad idea. i changed mine at 1. 8k and wish i had changed it earlier. Use the stratapore filters. if someone else doesn't tell you first, change the air filter to a less restrictive one. i hastily chose k 'n n and might have chosen amsoil or western diesel if i had the opportunity. also, rmove the "snorkel" from the air box to the fender well and the turbo can breathe better. mine came out easily by opening the box, removing the air filter, and pulling on the snorkel. removing the silencer ring from the turbo is personal preference, and you'll get lot's of opinions about that. personally i like mine without the silencer ring--like to hear the turbo whine. lastly, and then i'll shut up, if you want to modify your exhaust, be aware that straight piped is quite a bit louder than stock. i didn't like th noise, so i found a truck muffler 4" straight thru and about 4' long that sounds nice and should remove the back pressure... ...

enjoy ramin' it :D
 
Thanks for all the info

Still have many Question, I was at the dealer getting somthing, The manger offer a free oil & Filter change ? if I should take them up on it or just do it myself. What about mopar filter's & oil. I am going to change to fleetgard and most likey delvac oil ( its around the conner). I will change the oil around 1500k as read. :confused:
 
Sometimes the factory filter is on really tight so it might be better to let the dealership's mechanics fight with that one. If you do decide to let them do the first change WATCH THEM. Usually the low man on the totem pole gets stuck changing oil so keep an eye on your truck to make sure that it gets diesel oil and the drain plug reinstalled correctly as well as the new filter filled with oil prior to installation, etc.



I plan to change my oil at 1. 5-2k also. On my last Cummins the oil analysis was showing that the oil (Chevron Delo) was good at 6500 miles and could be left in longer, once the engine was broken in.



Any more questions there's tons of good people and good information here, just ask!



Later,

Mike
 
Just got through the oil intiation last week. Had to use a cheater bar to get more leverage on the 1/2 inch socket drive for the strap wrench.
 
dealer oil change

I would be VERY careful to let the dealer do the oil change, even if it is "free". as pointed out the low man (sometimes part time students) are the persons doing the changin, I have read many accounts of dealers using "regular 10/30 oil, which they buy in bulk, for our engines, and at least one post where the alternator fuse was "blown" when doing an oil change. If your even just a little mechanical, do it yourself, you paid the big bucks for your rig and you will take the extra care to make sure it is done right, the oil monkey at the dealer is just waiting for closing time so he can leave! just my $ . 02
 
oil change

i agree. there has been talk about the filter. i guess i'd try myself first, if i were you. personally my first filter came off fairly easily. i may have had to use the BIG slipjoint pliers though, can't remember. :)
 
Semi-Home boy!

JJ, (checked your profile - is your 1st name Joe?)



1st - Welcome to the TDR, it's a great place!



2nd - I just can't see taking my lawn mower to any dealer let alone my expensive truck. In your case, however, if it's under warrenty go for it but, as somebody mentioned watch em` like a hawk! Talk to the Svc. Mgr. and tell him you'd like to watch the mechanic work on your new baby. If he gives you the "due to insurance reasons you can't enter the work area" bit, tell him you'll sign the waiver. If he tells you there isn't a waiver tell him goodbye! Where'd you get it Dealers Name. You may wish to post a question to the TDR about them to see if the other guy's have any experience with them before giving them your new truck?



3rd - I agree w/previous posts and also use Premium Blue & Fleetguards on my 99. Do my own oil changes and everthing else - so far. As far as getting the factory filter off, my experience is as follows: purchased w/72k on it but, from a Dodge dealer whom changed the oil & filters prior to me receiving it. Got it home 150 miles later, checked the oil, it was high by 2 quarts:mad:. Quickly drained it off to the correct level. My first oil change the filter was a bear, knuckle head mechanic didn't oil the "O" ring prior to overtightening the filter. Get yourself one of those (not sure exactly what they are actually called) filter pliers. They work great and fit almost any size filter. Make sure you torque the drain plug.



You will see varrious opinions about types of oil & filters here, all good information but, in the end it's up to how you drive and wish to maintain your truck that will help you decide.



4th - Look in the back of your Owners Manual and spend the $90 bucks on the DC Shop Manual. This is a great site and all that but, nothing beats a real reference book with instructions and pictures.



5th - (and hopefully final) Where is Gibbstown, NJ? I'm in Levittown, PA which is about 2 miles from the NJ/PA turnpike? I think you are the only person I've seen on this site that is close to me. Drop me a PM with more details on your location if you wish.



Joe Mc
 
An additional thought: The latest issue of the TDR had some commentary on the Cummins lab which examines warranty claims for engine failurese. The relevant comment for this thread was the observation that occasionally an oil port inside the engine gets blocked by a small piece of foil - - - yes, folks, the very same foil found under the cap of a sealed plastic can of your favorite brand of motor oil. THE POINT: Be very careful when removing that seal. Better yet, use a filtered funnel to pour the oil through when refilling the engine. Hey, I did one of these numbers on about my fifth oil change and managed to catch the dumb stuff before it got into the crankcase. Never even ocurred to me that it could cost me an engine!!!
 
I would think any filter worth it's salt would pick up anything you could see, especially a piece of foil? Doesn't really make sense. What am I missing here?
 
Low man on the ole pole is a fact. I got a 98 12V that a young buck at one of these quick oil change spots checked to brake fluid and added auto transmission fluid. $1800 later a new system. Ain't got any idea how he got thoes two filler holes mixed up.



Premium Blue for the first 50K then Amsoil works great. 15w-40 series 2000.



Preston
 
THancock



The problem with the foil (and any other dirt) is when you are filling the filter. If the foil gets into the filter on the clean side,then there is nothing left between there and the oil galleries. It is pushed through the lubrication system,where it can block passages and the piston cooling jets. If you just poured it in the cranckcase,it probably wouldn't do much damage unless it was big enough to actuallt plug the oil pickup screen.



It's a good thing to watch for,especially if someone else is doing your oil change.
 
I don't think Cummins recommends using the PB 2000 synthetic oil till the engine is broken in... . I just switched to it at 65,000, had been running the Plain Premium Blue. BTW, I've found it cheaper at the Cummins (Northwest) store than anyplace else - a lot cheaper! So check the local Cummins store. And be sure to check out the threads on the STUPID drip bottle - you'll have to do something with it or else it'll drive you CRAZY!!!!And do yourself a favor - don't go down that dark Bombing ally - once you start - there's no turning back! How's it feel to be a Virgin again?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top