New to 3rd Gen, need advice

[S.Morris]

Baldwin fuel filter PF7977 are 5micron and are meant for use in OEM canister.

 

[AH64ID]

As p-Bar stated Bosch recommends a minimum of 5um filtration for their HPCR systems, and the 5. 9 never got it in OEM form. The only filter that fits the OEM canister and meets the Bosch spec is the Baldwin PF7977.

Many dealerships sell and install aftermarket filtration devices due to the lack of OEM filtration.

 

[cerberusiam]

So how do I find out if I have an HO or not?

Drive side of the valve cover right in front of the air horn should have a paper tag on it that lists the HP rating. It will be 235, 250, or 305. The 305\555 was the HO in early MY 04. Failing that, a run of the VIN will tell you all the particulars on the truck. Last choice, put a Smarty on it and it will an HO in power, not internals though so you have to be a little more careful.

That's a ridiculous statement. What evidence do you have to prove it?

Oh, maybe it is the new trucks coming with multi-pass filtration of water and solids down to 3 UM. Possibly all the testing that proves 3 UM or larger solids and water is severely detrimental to IP and injector life. Maybe even the 9 years of experience with CR injection systems that definitively PROVES the factory filtration was inadequate. Possibly Bosch's recommendations of filtering and fuel quality, or, even Cummins recommendations for filtration and the proven track record in medium\heavy duty applications with multiple filters and better filtration. ONLY you would make an assinine observation like that. :-laf



Air box is a bit restrictive but if you never push it it won't show. Opening the air box with either hole sin the bottom or a cold air inlet and using the newer filters is good to 500 HP. Exhaust is a bit restrictive at 3. 5" and a restrictive muffler. A good free flowing muffler will help EGT's a bit and sound. A full 4" is as optimal as you can get.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Thanks for the info, but please keep it civil.

As for the filter a K&N air filter get the job done?

Does anyone make a extendable side mirrors with turn signals?

Also transmission suggestions, cooling pan etc

 

[HBarlow]

Having put 325,000 miles on a 24 valve and 230,000 on a HPCR '06 with OEM fuel filtration only and never an injection pump or injector failure I'm confident relying on Dodge Ram/Cummins engineer's filter system and not at all impressed with all the opinions expressed here.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

HBarlow
I asked nicely to be civil,
You and I butted heads a long time ago over a similar point and you were rude then as you are now. If you do not have anything constructive to help with please move on.

the rest I have found your information very helpful so keep it coming, that is why I have had a membership for almost 13 years, good ideas, good people
Thanks
Kyle

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

HBarlow

I asked nicely to be civil,

You and I butted heads a long time ago over a similar point and you were rude then as you are now. If you do not have anything constructive to help with please move on.



the rest I have found your information very helpful so keep it coming, that is why I have had a membership for almost 13 years, good ideas, good people

Thanks

Kyle

 

[cerberusiam]

Thanks for the info, but please keep it civil.

Of course, but, enough disention so BIG will show up with the round girls , and I do mean ROUND girls... .....

Blinkers in the mirrors, don't know if there is a easy to use retro kit for that. Sure you could find customs but running the wires with the systems is a challenge. The blinker systems are controlled by the FCM and sensitive to load and additions. The dreaded LAMP OUT shows too much if one is not exceedingly careful, or, it could cook the FCM.

K&N, well, that doesn't have the best reputation. In SC where its relatively damp it is likely not a problem but its a chance to use them. Several of us, me included, have modified stock air boxes with the deep pleat Fleetguard and have dynoed close to 500 HP with\without the filter and it shows no discernible difference. Adequate dry filters and no oiled ones. How you get to that point and what you want to spend is a personal choice.

Take the money you would spend on a pan and\or extra cooler and mod the transmission. Shift kit, billet accumulator, billet front servo, and billet front band strut and anchor. That will do more for the life of your transmission for less $$ than any bolt ons. Remove the drian back valve and clean the thermostat in the front cooler and it makes a big difference. Then if you want a solid lower stall higher efficiency converter and you are golden.

 

[HBarlow]

HBarlow
I asked nicely to be civil,
You and I butted heads a long time ago over a similar point and you were rude then as you are now. If you do not have anything constructive to help with please move on.

the rest I have found your information very helpful so keep it coming, that is why I have had a membership for almost 13 years, good ideas, good people
Thanks
Kyle

I'm often accused of being rude when I offer information and advice counter to what a poster wants to hear.

It makes little difference to me whether you like my advice or posts. I post whatever I think when I wish.

 

[AH64ID]

I'm often accused of being rude when I offer information and advice counter to what a poster wants to hear.

It makes little difference to me whether you like my advice or posts. I post whatever I think when I wish.

Maybe because you are rude, and present your opinions as facts even when the facts are available to you and NOT what you think they are. Unfortunately, or fortunately, you block most everyone on here and never realize just how silly you look when you present false data time and time again.

 

[p-Bar]

I think HB needs some CF time

Cerb I think you are right on the money with the bombing

 

[JR]

I post whatever I think when I wish.

That pretty much sums it up!

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

OK, just got the truck home,
Its a 305 hp with 4:10 gears
4 speed automatic
starting all fluid changes and need to install right wheel bearing and u joint
got a small problem,
horn does not work, or should I say it will not go off, have to pull the fuse to shut it off,
any ideas?
Also where is the check valve and how do I remove it?
Thanks
Kyle

 

[RVTRKN]

Cool, the early HO, some prefer that over the 04. 5 and later trucks, I believe its because their a catless truck, when the 04. 5 on trucks had cats on the exhausts. I'm not sure about this one, but the exhaust were 3" from the turbo back and the 04. 5 are 4" from the turbo back. You can install 4" exhaust but the turbo is 3" so you will need a 3 to 4 inch down pipe. Good luck with your new to you truck and be sure to post some pics.

 

[Bob4x4]

You can change out the turbo outlet to the later 4" version to run 4'' vs the 3. 5" pipe I probably have one in my garage-somewhere

 

[Bob4x4]

Blinkers in the mirrors, don't know if there is a easy to use retro kit for that. Sure you could find customs but running the wires with the systems is a challenge. The blinker systems are controlled by the FCM and sensitive to load and additions. The dreaded LAMP OUT shows too much if one is not exceedingly careful, or, it could cook the FCM.

IIRC there is a mopar accessory mirror pkg with turn signals in the glass. I dont care for their shape and they have a lil vibration type shake at times going down the road