Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New to TDR and diesel engines

[KnightR]

Always been a big block ford or chev due to farm operations. Did the job, but fuel to expensive. Now all tractors but one diesel, and just purchased a 98 3500 4x4 auto 12v 117K and scared to death of it. After purchased contacted old owner he said put $5500 in front end, $5800 in eliminating a algae problem encluding pump, enjectors, fuel lines and cleaning out both tanks spare tank 70 gal. on top. He said after all this work blew engine #6 cyl pulling 5th wheel up grape vine in California. (Did'nt have pyrometer) and dealer wanted $10K to fix. Sold truck as is to Diesel shop. Point. I bought truck not knowing history. I can't see work done on front end other than tie rod end, fuel system looks like nothing was done other than hole in bottom of tank on top patched over (and leaks) Now the clincher he said the engine had to be repaired or it would'nt run. I've repaired and replaced many engines in the last 50 years. This one looking underneath has'nt had the pan dropped, motor mounts look like they have been stationary since 1998. Basically it looks like he got took, and someone fixed a turbo or whatever and put it back on the road. Is their some way I can use the engine ID number to see if it is the orginal engine, or is their something else I'm overlooking regarding maybe it's a replacement engine. Help

 

[Grizzly]

Welcome to TDR. It's a great site and you'll get much help here. I believe that the vin # is stamped somewhere on the engine block and hopefully it's the same as on the truck. I hope someone will respond here who can tell you where it is.

 

[Joe G.]

There is or at least should be a data plate on the front gear case right in front of the injection pump. It's near the top on the side toward the driver side fender. It has the specs for the engine. The most important number is the CPL. That is the number for the recipe used to construct the engine. You will need that to purchase parts from Cummins. If #6 is bad it is probably a melted top in the piston. If the cylinder wall is not scarred up it should not be too expensive to fix. You an find out if that is the case by pulling the head.



The VIN is on the driver's door B pillar and on the dash at the driver's side of the windshield. I don't think it is on the engine.

 

[Grizzly]

There is or at least should be a data plate on the front gear case right in front of the injection pump. It's near the top on the side toward the driver side fender. It has the specs for the engine. The most important number is the CPL. That is the number for the recipe used to construct the engine. You will need that to purchase parts from Cummins. If #6 is bad it is probably a melted top in the piston. If the cylinder wall is not scarred up it should not be too expensive to fix. You an find out if that is the case by pulling the head.



The VIN is on the driver's door B pillar and on the dash at the driver's side of the windshield. I don't think it is on the engine.

Thanks Joe.

 

[arthr31]

Yah, Scary story. Follow through with what Joe g and Grizzly have suggested. Also, search for KDP make sure you get taken care of.

Most of all, don't be scared. There is a whole wealth of information here and plenty ready to help out. I have found that the diesel truck is easier to care for than the gasser. And you'll be more attentative to fuel and filters and such because you'll notice the difference sooner. Good luck.

 

[Missouri Mule]

Could of had the cooling piston nozzle plugged up to take out no. 6piston/cylinder, or a bad injector.

Hopefully they replaced the engine for your sake.

 

[KnightR]

Thanks for the information. I only put 800 miles on it since I bought it. It starts right up, no smoke, good oil pressure and temp is normal. Shifts good. Paid good money for it (high book) but than It's better than spending $55K as my neighbor did and does'nt like the diesel he bought.

 

[KnightR]

Everything about the truck is great. It's just I can't see how anyone can fix a internal problem especially pistons without at least dropping the pan or pulling the engine. Looking at it and this was all suppose to take place a month ago. I can't see anything done not even a wrench mark on any bolts.

Thanks for the info.

 

[BTighe]

ask the shop for the old part if possible.

 

[RamRunnerRob]

Here's my 2 cents worth, (it's free and worth what U pay 4 it!). I'v got a 94 w/305 k on it and runs great. If yours runs good, keep the oil and all filters changed regularly, and run it! If U plan 2 pull heavy, my advise would B 2 put on a EGT 2 C how hot your exhaust is running... I don't let mine get over 1200 but it would if I held my foot in it when I pull extra heavy on long hills, just let off a little till the EGT gets B low 1200. Run an bottle of injector cleaner thru it once in a while and C what happens. . It's a Cummins, and it's the best U can buy... Don't get too uptight just yet... (FWIW). . RamRunnerRob. .

Good Luck!

 

[dpuckett]

I agree- if it runs smooth and you like the truck, dont worry about it.



$5000 in the front end sounds a little high; $5K for fuel system sounds about right IF they had to replace everything. I'm not up to snuff on algae probelms- I thought you jsut drained your tank and rana biocide through it and proceeded.



Daniel

 

[y-knot]

Welcome to the TDR and congratulations on your first diesel truck. Like mentioned before, if the truck starts fine, runs good and doesn't smoke then I would just relax and enjoy it for now. We can't control the future, so enjoy the present.

 

[Shadrach]

Please supply me with the truck serial number and engine serial number and I will ckeck to see if they match. Shadrach

 

[JGrover]

Make sure you always buy fuel from a truck stop, Flying J,Pilot,etc. Any place that sells a lot of diesel fuel. Keeps you from pumping a tankfull of water in your truck. May want to run some good fuel additive for a few tanks. In case theres still some water in the fuel system