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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) New to the forum! Got some Q's...

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) how much?

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I have an 02 HO six speed. The only mods is: removed muffler and silencer ring and gauges (pyrometer and boost). At WOT I see 900 deg on the pyrometer I thought that was a little low from what I have been reading. Cruising is around 550 to 600 degrees. Boost is at 22-23psi. Here are some questions I have:



What does APPS stand for?

What is the best cold air system out there and where can I get one?

What is a good stock style lift pump to get and where to get one?



I am going to get a relocation kit for the lift pump and I really dont want to run two pumps.



I have an Edge EZ and a 4" turbo back on the way.



That is all I have for now and I love this truck I should have got one a loooong time ago!



Thanks,

Sean
 
Welcome to the best place to spend your money !! hehe

Lots of neat things to discuss here... . The most recent thing I am doing is Bio-Diesel under the Alternative fuels section...



APPS... I cant remember the meaning,. . but it is the electronic sensor for the throttle position



On the Cold air system, I have K & N but some guys have the BHAF... "big honkin' air filter", there is Scotty Air system, and others... . There are links to several places at the top of the page under "site features" and then "links"



On a single pump, you 'can' run the stock pump back there but for better flow, you might want to get the FASS system or equivalant high flow pump.
 
Where is your pyro located? Pre-turbo or post? Those numbers could be right on, could be low. What speed do you classify as "cruising"? Also, I take it that the boost numbers are your max numbers. Those would be right on assuming no box and a stock wastegate elbow.



APPS = Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. Determines the position of the accelerator for the computer so it can make it's adjustments.



As for cold air systems, depends on what you want. Oiled filter, AFE is good. Non-oiled, you can go with a BHAF (Napa 2790).



If you're just looking to relocate the pump, you can re-use the stocker. Putting it closer to the tank will help it out anyway. If you want to go with something else, there are plenty of threads here with P/Ns for aftermarket pumps.



Welcome to the TDR!



JM
 
SGustin said:
What is a good stock style lift pump to get and where to get one?



I am going to get a relocation kit for the lift pump and I really dont want to run two pumps.



Running two pumps is probably a better solution than simply relocating the stock pump. Sure, it will help, but the stock lift pump is still prone to failures. I would recommend keeping the stock lift pump in the stock location and adding a pusher pump, FASS or equivalent, or even a RASP system.
 
Thanks for the greeting. I have the pyro sending unit right after the turbo where the instuctions told me to put it (1 - 2 inches after the turbo) These are autometer gauges. Cruising between 60 and 65 mph is wher I see 550 to 600 deg. Thanks for the info. After I get the exhaust and the Edge the only other thing that I will do is the catcher. The catcher sounds like a fun mod from what I have read. That will be pretty much it for mods. Just going to enjoy it.



Thanks,

Sean
 
Those EGT's you stated are right where they should be, you won't see any higher till you hook the trailer up. I have the same gauges. :D



Tom
 
The EGTs you are seeing are OK, but figure ~300 degree difference when comparing to a thermocouple mounted in the exhaust manifold.
 
If you put your thermocouple pre turbo you would see faster temp changes and more accurate temps on the high side that could be harmful. No doubt people use post turbo but I would say 80% or better choose to go pre turbo.
 
Beast2B said:
The EGTs you are seeing are OK, but figure ~300 degree difference when comparing to a thermocouple mounted in the exhaust manifold.



Be aware that the ~300 degree difference is close to true while cruising, but if you're getting after it, the difference between pre and post turbo temps can be MUCH higher. So don't assume that 900 post turbo is only 1200 pre-turbo when the hammer is down.
 
thermocoupler position

I've heard of people moving their coupler to post turbo to "fool" the comp box safety features. Not a good idea. :(
 
FWIW I saw about a 500 degree difference when I moved the probe from post to pre on my 98.

Also the response is MUCH faster.

My $. 02

Joe
 
Those numbers seem high to me. Granted you don't have exhaust or anything, but my truck, as it is in my sig rarely sees over 800*F cruising at 75 or so, if I keep it down around 60-65 then temps are more like 500-600 or less, pre-turbo.

And I'm lucky to get my pyro to 1000*F with the hammer dropped.

Maybe its the exhaust and intake restrictions, but I can't imagine that's really accurate.

Someone correct me, maybe I'm wrong.

-R. J.
 
RJPotts said:
Those numbers seem high to me. Granted you don't have exhaust or anything, but my truck, as it is in my sig rarely sees over 800*F cruising at 75 or so, if I keep it down around 60-65 then temps are more like 500-600 or less, pre-turbo.

And I'm lucky to get my pyro to 1000*F with the hammer dropped.

Maybe its the exhaust and intake restrictions, but I can't imagine that's really accurate.

Someone correct me, maybe I'm wrong.

-R. J.





I agree. With only a 4" exhaust, (stock air box, no catcher, and stock wastegate settings) I could not get my EGTs over 900 pre-turbo in the manifold. 900 post-turbo on a stock truck sounds high but the boost numbers are right so I'm confused about why his EGTs are that level.



Is that while towing heavy?
 
I just installed the BHAF and now I the pyro wont get over 800 deg post turbo. My stock filter was very dirty. And by the way the BHAF is a huge ba$tard! Still getting use to the size!



Sean
 
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