New to trucks, new to diesels, and new to the TDR... with plenty of questions!

[Intelman34]

Hello Everyone! I have been lurking for awhile as I am hopefully only a few weeks away from owning a Dodge CTD.



I am switching from owning a ghost flamed, 12 second, 1997 Camaro Z28 ( http://www.brewcitymuscle.com/gallery/album09/DSCF0009 ) along with a 1993 5. 0L Thunderbird.



Having a toy and a daily car just doesn't make sense anymore. I've wanted a truck since I was a kid (when you grow up watching monster trucks everyday, they grow on you FAST) so now it is time to get one.



I am hoping to find a buyer ASAP for the Z28 and a buyer for the Thunderbird soon after that.



I am currently looking at a 1999 Ram 2500 24V CTD with 130k miles on it. The miles came from driving from AZ to WI all the time. The guys uncle owns a local performance shop in the area so it has a newly built up transmission with a warranty. The truck has been "upgraded" to have suspension parts off a 3500 Ram. He works at a body shop so the truck has a beautiful, fresh coat of jet black paint and the truck has new 2003 Ram 3500 badging on it. It looks killer. The lift pump has been replaced. It also has new Firestone Steeltex (?) tires on it He will sell me it for $16,000. He is selling it becuase he just bought a house and doesn't want to pay for it anymore. Is this a good deal or should I keep looking?



I know its a CTD, but is 130k high mileage? I will be using this truck for playing in some mud and driving to college everyday (20miles on freeway). I have nothing to tow or haul. I am a maintenance freak so it will be definetly taken care of.



This truck will not stay stock for long, but I need to know some cheap mods. The BHAF mod looks fun and cheap, but the part number for the napa air filter doesnt come up at napa. There are a few exhuast systems on Ebay for about $380. 4" and 5" are the same price... which one is better to go with?



Also, I searched for some threads on fuel additives, but i cant determine which one is "best". My girlfriends dad who is a diesel truck mechanic told me what to use... it started with a "P", but I forgot what is.



Finally, what is the difference between #1 and #2 diesel?



Thanks so much!



I just need something RELIABLE.

 

[ralphr]

welcome to "truckville". first, you did not say if the truck was auto or stick. "They" say that the auto is the week link, had mine 4 years but only 52K miles and never had problem with auto, did do the maintenance changed filter and fluid, flushed and used amsoil synthetic. 5 speed NV4500 had problem with nut backing off and loosing either first, or reverse? the other problem that needs checking is the lift pump, mine died at 40k and had to be replaced. you can do a search at the TDR website on these and other issues associated with the ctd. don't worry though for the most part these are great trucks and 130K is not an awful lot of miles.



As for the fuel, #2 diesel is basically the fuel oil used in home furnaces. #1 is a little thinner and is "blended" with the #2 in winter in cold areas so it will flow. even thinner is kerosene. since the injector pumps are lubricated and cooled by the fuel don't run straight #1 or kerosene since it will damaged that part at about $4,500 to replace!!!! also search for posts regarding additives and make up your own mind.

 

[Intelman34]

The transmission in the truck is a built up Auto.



Thanks for the help!

 

[TomGolden]

Welcome to the Poor House ... I mean, welcome to the world of performance diesel trucks



I'll answer some of your questions, or at least give you some opinions, and some other pointers as well.



There are a variety of quality diesel fuel additives, and like oil or transmission brands, everyone has their favorites. PowerService might be the one your g/f's dad meant... Lucas, StanDyne, Red Line, Amsoil,... a decent rule of thumb would be to stop in at a local large truck stop, like a Flying J or something similar (as opposed to a gas station that sells diesel) and see what brands they sell. Chances are, if they tried to sell a crappy brand, truckers would stop buying it and they'd take it off their shelves. I personally have and still use Red Line, PowerService, Amsoil and Cummins own injector cleaner.



In my opinion, $16K for that truck sounds like a decent if not great price. In northern California, that seems to be a common price for trucks of that general model year and miles. Maybe not in your neck of the woods though... Oh, 130K miles on a 1999 is not bad at all. I have 67K on my 2001 truck, I bought it new in September 2000, so your truck is right on par with mine. As long as reasonable maintenance is done, these engines can go 300K+ miles with no major problems or repairs needed. Usually... If that was a truck that I liked, I would absolutely jump on that deal.



Fleetguard also has a BHAF type air filter. I personally have both a K&N and an AFE filter that I switch between.



If the truck doesn't already have them, GAUGES GAUGES GAUGES!!!! Most importantly are EGT (also known as pyrometer) and fuel pressure. Most folks install the EGT thermocouple "pre" turbo, meaning between the head and the turbo, rather than after the turbo. Other important gauges would be boost, and since you have an auto transmission, maybe a transmission temp gauge.



I'd just say take an hour or two, crawl all over, under, inside, outside and around the truck, look at everything. Look for anything that seems too loose, broken, leaking excessively, anything that appears to have been replaced, etc. and get a feel for any obvious past or soon to be problems you may have to deal with after you buy the truck.



One heads up on the different grades of diesel, since in WI, you'll be dealing with it in winter months. #1 diesel is "thinner" than heavier grades of fuel oils, hence it flows easier and allows a cold engine to ignite the fuel easier. It also has less lubricity than heavier fuels, so any time you have to run either straight #1 or a "winter blend" which is a combination of #1 & #2 fuels, you should likely use a fuel additive that specifically says it adds lubricity to the fuel. Lift pumps and VP44 injection pumps are lubricated by the fuel flowing through them. Lift pumps are at the least annoying to have to change. VP44's are more difficult, and waaaaaay more $$$$$$.



Hope this helps. Enjoy that sweet new toy. And just think, you'll be able to get as much if not more horsepower than either of your current toys, and far, far more torque, all the while getting better mileage than either of them probably gets Oh, and also most likely paying less for the fuel to boot!!!!



I Love Diesel!



Tom

 

[24V-DSL]

Welcome to the TDR....

Nice lookin' Z.



I'm sure you made the choices for your Z after careful research. Do the same with the CTD.



Can't help you with the value of the truck you're looking at, but assuming you're under time constraints to make the buying decision. If that's true I don't see a lot of value in tellling you to do extensive "searches" on the TDR to get answers to most of your questions. Decide if you want the truck... value, condition, etc. If you buy it then take the time to search the TDR archives for what performance choices and in what order. Do it right the first time.



130K, especially freeway miles in no big deal with the Cummins.



The additive is probably Powerservice. Easily found and cheap. A search on this topic will give a weeks worth of reading. Like oil choice it comes down to personal choice. I'm in the group of believers and use it every tank for injection pump lubrication, which I believe the additives provide.



Before you start to bomb your truck with performance enhancements find out what kind of transmission you've really got. Let's hope it's not an AAmco or something similar. Since it was apparently done in a "performance shop" that's not likely. No offense intended about the transmission comments, since your history indicates you've got some credibilty.



Bigger exhaust than stock below ~350 rwhp provides little if any benefit, unless your definition of "benefit" includes exhaust note and a cool factor (does for me). Not where I'd spend my $$ at first with a limited budget. Be cautious about Ebay offerings. Once you get comfortable with the TDR you'll find trustworthy vendors and manufacturers to buy from.



get the truck (see above), and the TDR will give you lots of help and advice.

 

[Joe G.]

Actually you can have your toy and daily driver. It's the same vehicle. One of our members has a truck that has dynoed at 744 HP on just #2 diesel. No NOX or propane. It's a daily driver when he doesn't have it in the shop making more mods. Oh yeah, he gets 20 MPG or better. Another member gets down the quarter in less than 12 seconds. Drives it to the strip, puts on the slicks, and changes the injectors to race. When he gets thru racing he puts it back like it was and drives home.



Welcome to the TDR. Say bye to your bank account.

 

[Intelman34]

Thanks for all the advice. Powerservice is the additive he was talking about. Apparently he can get me however much I need and it sounds good, so it looks like I will be using that.



I forgot to mention that the truck has a steering stabilizer.



I drove my cammed Z28 for two years with headers, no cats, and straight pipe along with 3. 73 rear gears and a 3500 stall (read: the RPMS were NEVER low) so a loud diesel is just what I am looking for.



By the way... here is the for sale ad for my car: http://www.brewcitymuscle.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2116



I am also used to spending more money than I have on vehicles so I am prepared to spend cash.



Thanks so much for everything guys!

 

[csevers]

WELCOME TO THE TDR

There is a local group of TDR members to hang out with or help mod the truck. Keep an eye out for posts for local events we have a great time when we get together.



Craig