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Must have raised the boy right!

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So I finally made the decision to sell off the 2006 Mega and bought a new 2012. I ordered the truck specically after much debate between 3. 73 and 4. 10, I ordered the Max Tow because it came with the 4. 10. Now here lies the problem. The truck was built with 3. 73. Apparently Chrysler changed the Max Tow package from when we ordered until when it was built to no longer included 4. 10 standard. The Dealer remembers when we ordered it that when he clicked on Max Tow all gearing choices were blocked and the 4. 10 was automaticaly selected. Apparently from the day we ordered to when it was built, Chrysler changed to no longer included the 4. 10 with Max Tow. when I discovered the screw up from chrysler, the dealer checked the order system and when he clicks Max Tow he now gets a pop up that advises that the 4. 10 is no longer included. Truck has the finned cover on the rear diff from Max Tow. Window sticker shows Max Tow with 4. 10 gear then lower down shows 3. 73?



Now I need to decide if I want to stay with the 3. 73 or make Chrysler swap the axles and put 4. 10 axles in. ( I DO NOT WANT NOR WILL I ACCEPT A GEAR SWAP, I WANT NEW AXLE ASSEMBLIES!!!!)



I towed my trailer, which is about 11,000 loaded (19,200 combined with the 2006 Mega Dually) The truck pulled ok at 73 at 1800 RPM, but seemed to like it better at 2000 rpm but 80 is a bit fast. I run 50/50 loaded to empty annual mileage. I do most of my towing in the winter months for snocross racing so I am back and forth from Detroit to Minnesota several times. Often in nasty head and or cross winds I obviously need the best for economy. My 2006 which I know is a totally different animal with the 5. 9 and 48RE ran best power wise at 2000-2100 rpm at 73-75 or above.



What are thoughts? what RPM do you tow at irregardless of MPH? Would I get better mileage even though RPM are a little higher it i mechanically easier to keep rolling due to gearing with 4. 10? I need to let dealer know by Monday. I got about 10-10. 5 with old truck towing same trailer. Would like same or better if possible.



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Lawdog the window sticker is confusing! 50/50 what gear ratio you got. 3. 73 is standard with the 68re and maybe with 6 spd manual. But I think that the MaxTow package would overide the standard package.



In another thread you stated that at 73 mph your running about 1700/1800 rpm is that in 6th gear or do you have it in tow/haul mode(5th)?
 
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The MSRP suggests an assembly error was made as it shows both ratios. Your earlier post reporting 73 mph at 1700-1800 rpm is proof of why anything but 4. 10 gears are a bad choice for a truck used for towing. I would insist on a gear ratio change.
 
In another thread you stated that at 73 mph your running about 1700/1800 rpm is that in 6th gear or do you have it in tow/haul mode(5th)?



Tow/haul mode in the 68RFE does NOT lock out 6th gear. With my 4. 10 gears and factory dually tire sizes, 60 MPH in 6th = 1612 RPM. 3. 73s would give 1466 RPM at 60 MPH.



How much GCWR do you give up with the 3. 73s? If it were my truck, I ordered it in a specific configuration and I were paying that kind of money for it, I would insist on what I ordered. It's Chrysler's screw-up, not yours.



Rusty
 
Good luck in getting Chrysler to change out the axles, they have a disclaimer that they have the right to change/cancel options without notice. It happened to me when I ordered my 07 C&C. Chrysler wanted $1200. 00 for the option after delivery. I fought it with my dealer and factory reps, because as in your case, the package chosen had the option listed and the fleet salesman knew that was why I chose the package. But they wouldn't budge and I had to find it on eBay for $250. 00.

Now that you have the 3:73 and if Chrysler won't change it out, before you change it on your own, see how it performs with the 3:73's. I ordered mine with the 3:73's, and I have mixed feelings about it, but I have had no issues to date and happy enough to leave it alone due to costs associated with it. I ordered them because the truck was planed for 50/50 city/HWY driving, and now it only tows my toys for the most part. I still drive it some city but that is because it sits in the driveway and I need to drive it once in a while. The 68rfe should perform better than my G56, because its program can adopt better to them. Unlike my G56 which I must shift a lot when climbing small hills from 5th to 6th constantly at the California speed limit of 55MPH for auto/trailers and semi's. If I was to order a new truck I would't hesitate with the 3:73 if I were to go with the auto option, but I don't like auto's.
 
Now that you have the 3:73 and if Chrysler won't change it out, before you change it on your own, see how it performs with the 3:73's..... Unlike my G56 which I must shift a lot when climbing small hills from 5th to 6th constantly at the California speed limit of 55MPH for auto/trailers and semi's. If I was to order a new truck I would't hesitate with the 3:73 if I were to go with the auto option, but I don't like auto's.

This is totally an apples and oranges comparison that has nothing to do with the OP's situation. The 6th gear ratio on the G56 is 0. 79:1 or 0. 74:1 depending on whether it's an early or late G56, whereas the 6th gear ratio on the 68RFE is 0. 62:1. Towing performance and road RPM in 6th gear are completely different between the 2 transmissions. The 68RFE is an excellent match with the 4. 10s, both for towing and running unloaded.

Rusty
 
The 68rfe should perform better than my G56, because its program can adopt better to them. Unlike my G56 which I must shift a lot when climbing small hills from 5th to 6th constantly at the California speed limit of 55MPH for auto/trailers and semi's. If I was to order a new truck I would't hesitate with the 3:73 if I were to go with the auto option, but I don't like auto's.
Except for not mentioning gear difference, I believe I did not compare apples to oranges.
 
At 75 mph it is right at 1800 on the factory dash tach empty or loaded in Tow/Haul. I wil say if I wanted to run 80 empty the RPM is nice normally I run 73-75 empty or loaded at least in Michigan as posted limit is 70 and that includes passenger vehicles with trailers. Commercial truck speed limit is 60 mph.





I ordered the 4. 10 based on the web forums recommendations but have now realized a lot of those that replied run slower so their RPM is still in the 1650-1800 RPM Range, So now I am questioning if I should leave well enough alone or get the 4. 10. I may be changing jobs soon and will have about an 80 mile a day commute, all freeway so a little car will be coming but the truck would have to be used some as well. I dont want to have the trans shifting like crazy or feel like lugging if I get into some winds and or hilly country.



I am leaning on the 4. 10 choice though.
 
Have you ever towed a heavy load with a 68RFE?Nope, and never will unless its someone else's. And it doesn't change the fact that the OP will be stuck with them unless he has a good attorney.



Rusty



Some members have a desperate need to offer an opinion, even when it is irrelevant and unappreciated.
Hsmartash, we know your opinion is GOD, but your truck has it, so every one else must fall into lockstep with you.



Why can't we just stay on subject that is at hand here, out of respect to the OP.
 
The MSRP suggests an assembly error was made as it shows both ratios. Your earlier post reporting 73 mph at 1700-1800 rpm is proof of why anything but 4. 10 gears are a bad choice for a truck used for towing. I would insist on a gear ratio change.

Compare your door sticker GCWR to what you wanted in a CGWR. Then, you have a great argument point with your dealer. Otherwise, if the GCWR is the same as before, it becomes a different issue... .
 
I think you have 59,825. 00 reasons to get the gearing you want. Placing myself in your shoes I would want the 4:10.

I was almost in this same situation. I ordered my truck specifically with the 4. 10s to tow the RV in my signature. There were trucks with 3. 73s on dealer lots all over the Houston area, but the dealers couldn't locate one equipped as we wanted with the 4. 10 gears. When the truck arrived, we were walking through the pre-delivery inspection when I read the window sticker and asked the salesman, "Where are the 4. 10s? You know that's a deal breaker, right??" Man, he was absolutely sweating bullets until we went into his office and pulled up the build sheet for the truck on his computer that showed the components that actually went into the truck. Luckily for him, the 4. 10s showed up on the build sheet.

Rusty
 
Shawn,

If you tow a heavy trailer occasionally or any trailer at least 50% of the time I am convinced the 4. 10 gear set is your best choice. Rusty posted the calculated engine rpm in sixth gear/2nd OD at 60 mph with 4. 10 gears. As you can see, with 4. 10 gears you can tow as slow as 60 mph if speed limit or road conditions require without forcing you to shift into a lower gear or at speeds of 70 or higher if desired without revving the engine beyond around 2200-2300 rpm. My truck has a top speed of around 106 mph with 4. 10 gears so clearly there is no penalty to be paid for 4. 10 gears.

4. 10 gears also give you the additional advantage of improved load starting ability and slow speed hill climbing because of the torque multiplication of 4. 10 gears.

Chrysler has always rated the GCWR of 4. 10 equipped trucks several thousand pounds heavier than 3. 73 gears or 3. 42 which is even much lower. There is an inarguable reason for the improved tow rating. Ram engineers have calculated the advantages of 4. 10 gears and put in in writing with the higher gcwr.
 
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