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interior photo with manual transmission

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I have driven my truck and pushed it every time I drive it and it's Amazing how well it perform's I have hit the scales at 25,500 total weight and it pulled just like I expected it would run it with exhaust brake and drive ithard and you should be good to go
 
Domehead,



What rpm's are you turning at 70 or 75? I have a 3500 6sp manual due in the next week or so, also w/ 3. 73's in it. Looks like 65-70, ~2100RPM should be the sweet spot for mileage. An interesting calculator from Cummins is here: Cummins PowerSpec Gearing Recommendations



-truckin-on

2100@ 70 and 2200@75 If I slow it down to 65 the mpg will go up and the other thing that will help is turn off the cruise control(CC). The reason for that is when you see the hill coming up you have already started to feather more throttle compare to the CC which waits than it add a lot of throttle in to keep it at the set speed.
 
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Those who are complaining about the fuel economy numbers of the 6. 7 should visit some of the Ford forums and see how the 6. 4 drinks fuel.

Owning the same CTD for 12+ years, I would expect major increases in mpg with a new CTD. Gassers probably gained 50% in mpg over this same period.
 
Owning the same CTD for 12+ years, I would expect major increases in mpg with a new CTD. Gassers probably gained 50% in mpg over this same period.



Not sure about the gasser numbers but the current generation engine numbers (350 hp / 650 lbs torque) is a little higher than what they were rated at in '98. In addition, the EPA keeps tightening the noose on emissions standards. I wish they would just leave the diesels alone. Now Dear Leader Chairman Maobama plans to make it worse.
 
Dang sounds like the fuel mileage has really dropped from what I get with my 1996 2500. I get 22 on the highway doing 75MPH. i do realize that we are talking about a bigger engine with a lot more POWER. I am about to order a new 2500 or 3500. Does anyone have an idea how much difference there will be in fuel mileage 3500 verses 2500? I don't see much of a difference in weight and the same engine, gears and rear end. Are there any differences besides the rear springs.
 
Would the same equipped 2500 get any better fuel mileage than the 3500. i am looking to order a 3500 because I would like the extra 1000 lbs payload because I would like ti move up to a 5th wheel for the next RV. I can get a 5th wheel that the 2500 will carry but thought the extra payload just makes it safer. Any thoughts on the fuel mileage?
 
Just did a trip empty to memphis and back approx 1200 miles round trip. MPG was 15 running between 70-75. 2010 3500 drw manual 6 sp 4x4
 
Trip this past weekend from VA to SC and back. 3500 SRW unloaded.



750 miles on interstate 95: 78-80mph 1950-2000 rpm 16. 5 mpg

100 or so miles on state highways: 60-65 mph 1600-1700 rpm 19. 1 mpg



edit: 3. 73 gears
 
Trip this past weekend from VA to SC and back. 3500 SRW unloaded.



750 miles on interstate 95: 78-80mph 1950-2000 rpm 16. 5 mpg

100 or so miles on state highways: 60-65 mph 1600-1700 rpm 19. 1 mpg



edit: 3. 73 gears



It appears that the drw will decrease the mpg by 1. 5 mpg, and even more on secondary roads the rpm was between 2100-2200 at 70-75. I never saw the mpg get over 16 on TN-96 which by pass nashville, tn and I was running between 50-60 mph and the rpm was 1500-1800





Gear ratio 3. 73.



Is your 4X4 auto or stick.



Interesting data that we sharing.
 
Wow... the MPG on these new trucks appears to be really horrible :confused:. I've been considering possibly trading up to a new one as well after driving a new 2010 Laramie, but my '06 3500 DRW 6spd manual has under 40K miles and I can get mid-20s on the highway (empty). The only reason I've been considering a trade is that I feel I don't need the DRW, and by trading for a SRW 3500 I could get a vehicle that I could do more than tow with (the DRW doesn't make for a friendly daily driver, and I can't even take the thing through a car wash). But, 15 MPG is an even less friendly daily driver. Perhaps I should shed two wheels and find a SRW bed?



Todd
 
Wow... the MPG on these new trucks appears to be really horrible :confused:. I've been considering possibly trading up to a new one as well after driving a new 2010 Laramie, but my '06 3500 DRW 6spd manual has under 40K miles and I can get mid-20s on the highway (empty). The only reason I've been considering a trade is that I feel I don't need the DRW, and by trading for a SRW 3500 I could get a vehicle that I could do more than tow with (the DRW doesn't make for a friendly daily driver, and I can't even take the thing through a car wash). But, 15 MPG is an even less friendly daily driver. Perhaps I should shed two wheels and find a SRW bed?



Todd



I think there is a few more ponies under the hood on the new ones compare to the 06 and it does ride better all the way around. My truck is a work truck it's not a daily driver to the office or pickup groceries. there is about 1400 lbs of tools in the bed on any given day. Than the trailer which is a 7 ton tilt flat bed. (PS the trailer brake is great compare to the ones I have used. ) This trailer will have close to its max on it for each load. So the truck has to earn it's living other wise I can drive my honda civic for great MPG.



So if you truely do not need a large truck you may be better off down sizing but if you are paid in full just keep what you have and pickup something elese for a daily driver.
 
Meant to use the quote button on TKirby's post... .



How are you getting mid 20s empty? Do you drive 40 mph? What gearset do you have?

If it were me, I'd find some take-off wheels and tires on ebay or something and convert to SRW. You obviously like the truck, why not change what you don't like (or don't need) about it? There's plenty of folks out there changing their trucks to their own liking.
 
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Only thing I've done to my truck is flash the ECM with the Superchips programmer. I use the performance setting. Not sure on my gears, but I believe they're 3. 73. And yes, on a flat highway running 65mph I routinely get 23-24mpg. When towing it drops WAY down, but even with a fully loaded three horse gooseneck it will typically stay in the high teens on the flats, and never drops below 13mpg even in the steep mountains of VA and WV on I-79 and I-77 (typically towing from PA to GA and back).

Hey, I see you're in Austell, GA! I moved to PA from Lithia Springs back in 2002.
 
Long trips, calculated by the miles I went since the last fill up vs how much fuel it held. I've found that the display is usually pretty accurate, especially on long sustained runs on flat highway. Is the mileage really all that shocking?? Even with the stock program on the ECM I got over 20, but the Superchips programmer definitely boosted my mileage. No fuel additives, etc... . If I drive it hard though, it REALLY sucks the fuel, but the difference in performance (when empty) is amazing. It seems to want to just pull hard forever if you "give 'er the welly". When running empty on the highway, I typically just baby it and try to keep the revs around or under 2000 and it seems to do really well on fuel. It gets better mileage than my previous 1993 Dodge Cummins automatic extended cab, which I was not expecting at the time I bought it. I figured the new 2010 models might get 20 at least, but I guess the complicated emissions kills the mileage. I SO wish they had a smaller version of a Cummins for the 1/2 ton pickups.

FWIW, I've only used the Superchips "towing" program a few times, but all I found was that it didn't seem to have any more power and just used more fuel. Perhaps the loads weren't heavy enough to see a difference?
 
Is the mileage really all that shocking??



In a word, yes. The best I have ever seen in my '04 stock or modified was 18. Typically I run 16. 5 to 17 with a 70% highway 65 mph and 30% city driving. 11 towing 14k puond fifth wheel.



My '97 2500 with 3. 54's would sometimes hit 21, but that was a much lighter truck with higher gears.



Juan
 
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