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New TSB issued today for P0514 and more

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2006 engine noise

3rd gen engine R&R

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sag2

TDR MEMBER
New TSB on DealerConnect, 18-005-06 corrects the following on 06 trucks only.

Erroneous DTC's P0071-Inlet air temp rationality, P0111-Intake air temp rationality, and P0514-Battery temp rationality. In addition it will reduce the noise from the A/C compressor on a cold start, and limits engine speed when cold to protect turbo bearings.
 
I assume this TSB covers the code from that last TSB for the 6 speed long cranks. Just when I felt safe to get that last one done they supersede it :(



SAG2, on an 06 6speed, does the clutch switch wire have to be installed before the ECM will allow enable the high idle feature? If the dealer reflashes the ECM I can get them to turn on the feature for free, but if I just bring it in to have them turn on the feature they want to charge me (at least that is how it worked when I got the cold high idle turned on in my 02, plus I had to print out directions for them on how to turn it on)



I might add the clutch switch later.
 
Tow Pro- on an 06 6speed, does the clutch switch wire have to be installed before the ECM will allow enable the high idle feature? If the dealer reflashes the ECM I can get them to turn on the feature for free, but if I just bring it in to have them turn on the feature they want to charge me (at least that is how it worked when I got the cold high idle turned on in my 02, plus I had to print out directions for them on how to turn it on)



I don't believe the StarScan will allow the high idle to be turned on unless it sees there is a clutch switch input, but have not tried it to be sure. You could ask them to turn it on when you take it in for the flash, but it still will not work unless the clutch input signal is seen.



Cooper-D-Since my truck has not given me the P0514 code recently would you recommend I wait until it does before I take it back to the dealer?

Unless your having any of the symptoms noted, I see no reason to have it done. Technically, the technician is responsible to make sure the symptoms are present before making any repair, regardless if it is just a software flash. Not doing so puts the dealer at risk for chargeback for doing warranty work that is not necessary. Remember, a TSB is not a recall.
 
sag2 said:
Tow Pro-

I don't believe the StarScan will allow the high idle to be turned on unless it sees there is a clutch switch input, but have not tried it to be sure. You could ask them to turn it on when you take it in for the flash, but it still will not work unless the clutch input signal is seen.



I understand it will not work without the clutch switch. but what does the clutch switch do, let the ECM know the clutch is disengaged? Does this mean the high idle feature only works when your foot is on the clutch? I would prefer to wire it so the emergency brake has to be on :)
 
TowPro said:
I understand it will not work without the clutch switch. but what does the clutch switch do, let the ECM know the clutch is disengaged? Does this mean the high idle feature only works when your foot is on the clutch? I would prefer to wire it so the emergency brake has to be on :)



I've got the high idle option on my '06 with the 6 speed. The clutch switch is engaged when the clutch is engaged. Step on the clutch pedal (even a minute amount) and the switch disengages. I think what they are doing here is assuming that you cannot put the truck in gear without depressing the clutch pedal and therefore cannot cause a saftey issue with having the truck in gear and the high idle engaged.
 
TowPro said:
so there must be another input from the transmission telling the ECM its in Neutral?



I doubt it... as I can't see how it would need to know? You have to depress the clutch to start the truck, if it's in gear then you will have to put it in netural before exiting the vehicle... therefore, logic says it is impossible to engage the high idle option with it in gear, unless you are behind the wheel and the vehicle is in motion... . in which case the high idle option senses vehicle speed and shuts down and the crusie control buttons revert back to crusie control mode??? Just IMHO!



Would be nice to have a "trans in neutral" switch... would make remote start on a manual a WHOLE lot easier and safer!
 
JDubien said:
JTryles, Did you have to have the high idle activated or did it come from the factory that way?



At the time of delivery I had Lou Fusz install the Mopar High Idle Kit (as they called it). From what I can tell this "kit" is the installation of a switch on the clutch pedal and then a hook up to the DRB scan tool so the tech can enable the feature in the computer. I assume that if you have your truck flashed that you will have to make sure the dealer knows that you have the high idle kit and want them to make sure they reenable the option after the flash.



Price on the "kit" including installation? About $200-$250 as I recall- most of that is labor.
 
Here is a good question.



I hear of guys having injectors go bad, Dodge connects the scan tool and says "your idleing the truck to long" and will not replace the injector.



I sit in a train station every morning and let the truck idle around 10-15 minutes to keep the heat going while I wait for the train (if I get there later I can't get a wide parking spot).



Now if I am sitting there with the high idle turned up to around 1000 rpm, will the ECM be recording that time as "idle"? Will letting a fully warmed up truck idle at 1000 rpm stop the injectors from fowling?
 
Just tried looking at the idle time on my 06. When the high idle is on, the idle time does not clock up. However the duty cycle monitor showed 94% 0-10% load while the high idle was on. One interesting thing I noted was the engine torque was between 5-8 ft/lb until the grid heaters cycled, then it went to 21-26 ft/lb. You wouldn't think the alternator would pull that much load.
 
thanks sag2, So I guess if you got to sit and idle for a couple minutes, its better for the injectors to turn on the high idle feature. I bet the exhaust brake would help also, but it will not run at idle unless the truck starts to cool off. I have to do a search on what the part number is for the switch. I saw in an older post the switch was around $200. 00, but I see Jtryles got his installed for around that. It would be easy to install the switch wires into the ECM connector when its already unplugged for the exhaust brake install
 
85 miles on the ticker and I got my first check engine light for the 0514 :rolleyes: I hope this isn't a sign of what's to come because I'll have most of my warantee voided by the time I make 1000 miles.



-Scott
 
Just dropped mine off at Al Deeby Dodge in Clarkston. P0514 showed up again yesterday. I mentioned the TSB and the write up guy said something about hearing about that TSB and that it just came out. I had him make a note on the write up that I had the high-idle and to make sure they reenabled it if they did a flash of the computer. Should be done tomorrow. Hope they don't get up in arms about the TST! :(
 
DOH! Dealer just called... . "We were flashing your truck and the network connection dropped and it took out your ECM. " DOH!



Having one sent from Denver... won't have truck until Friday. :(
 
today the wife said "Lets go out and look at that new truck you bought", so like a proud dad I took her down to the garage. "Honey, let me pull it out of the garage so you can see it better". I hit the starter, it cranks and cranks, tried 3 times to get it started!

build date 12/10/05, picked it up 3 days ago. Guess PDI don't include updating the ECM! Guess I will put the clutch switch on first so they can knock them both out the same time.
 
sag2 said:
New TSB on DealerConnect, 18-005-06 corrects the following on 06 trucks only.

Erroneous DTC's P0071-Inlet air temp rationality, P0111-Intake air temp rationality, and P0514-Battery temp rationality. In addition it will reduce the noise from the A/C compressor on a cold start, and limits engine speed when cold to protect turbo bearings.



My '06 is 8 mo. old, 18,040mi. , run hrs just hit 500.

Truck is completely stock, just gauges installed for most of it's life.

Check engine light came on with a P0111 code yesterday. Re-checked codes after the first time but would not read any through saying "done". But engine light stayed on. Changed air filter (it was time anyway) wiped off the sensor inside air box cover (not sure if it's the one that reads these things) then the light went off. Hoped that was it.

This morning, eng. light on again. Checked codes and am getting P0514, P0111 and one that looks like it says U0121 (or J. )

It's not even close to cold here. (So Cal. ) I had 0 problems until now but before it was a near daily driver. Now it can sit 5 days to a week outside in between drives.

Looked for wiring problems, since we have field mice around which have been know to cause problems, but didn't see any.

I'm not a big fan of flashes since one that was done to my '01 had negative results.

After yesterday I thought it might be related to the 500hrs. (coincidence?) I have read all the posts here so I know about the battery temp sensor code and the intake air temp circuit but don't know what the other thing is.

I did the key on while holding the ODO button and saw the diag. mode. Other numbers with brackets etc. come up which I have no idea what they are.

Truck runs good and completely normal.

Is there a way to get the codes to reset and the light to go off without a tool?

Or will they reset themselves in time if the problems go away? (like the temperature thing)

Is the sitting contributing?

My dealer is an hour and a half away (where I bought it) and is a big hassle.

Any input and suggestions are helpful. Live with the light staring me in the face? Take it in and take my chances?
 
Bob4x4 said:
U121 is lost comunication with the abs module... you might want to look for rodent damage.



Bob

Would/could that be from the fuse missing? I was checking fuses (because I burnt the power outlet fuse with a devise) and was going through the chart inside my cover. Fuse #30 is marked as a 15 amp spare but when I used it temporarily, the ABS and Brake warning lights stayed on. I pulled over and put a fuse in there and they went out. Maybe that's it?



On a side note, #'s 3,34 and 41 are marked spares and are lose so the are spares. #'s 17, 30 and 37 push in tight (internal connectors) but are still marked spares. I now know at least #30 is NOT a spare.



My cover chart is wrong.



Thanks for the code definition. I read another guys post that after correcting (I think) the problem, his chk eng. light went out after 5 or so start ups. Does that sound about right?
 
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