newbie basic maintenance

[MRuskow]

Hey all, I recently bougt a 92 3/4 ton that I am very happy with. My problem is that I have no maintenance records for it, so I have to assume nothing has been done. It has 124,000 miles on it and Im looking for suggestions on what should be gone over. As of now I am planning, oil change, new air filter, new fuel filter, repack wheel bearings, lube pivot points, change transmission and differential oil. What else would you guys recomend me going over to help maintain this vehicle so it will run the countless miles you guys are hitting with your vehicles? Any suggestions or tips before I begin this work?







Another problem I am having is when the engine has been shut down for long periods of time(cold) It has issues starting. The temp stays pretty warm here so I am not starting it in sub degree temps. In the morning I will go out, give it a little gas and it wont start. I will do this 3-4 times and it will start but shortly die. Again I will start it and give it more gas, and it runs like a champ. It will continue to start great all day long even if left for many hours. but the next day same thing happens. This problem started suddenly and I cant figure out why!





Thanks again, you guys are maintaining one hell of a great place to find a wealth of informaition here -Matt Ruskow

 

[MRuskow]

also what service manual would you guys recomend and where can I get it from?

 

[dpuckett]

Get a factory service manual; it is pricey, but you sound like you can benefit from the extra info in there, vs a Chilton. Haynes doesnt even cover the pre-94 diesels.



I'd add at least a valve adjustment to the to-do list. Not real hard to do. You even have a tiiming pin that pops into a notch in the cam gear when you get to #1 TDC, or within a degree or 4. ALso get a pyrometer, boost gauge (40psi or more- I make 36 with stock flow injectors)



As for your starting problem, there are several things that could be the culprit- from as simple as the plugged fuel filter, to an injector pump heading south. How does it run once you get it going? What color smoke do you get, if any? Blue smoke isnt always bad rings or such like it is in a gas pig; more often than not, it is an injector or two. White smoke is normally retarded timing, though a few of us have seen white when we got it too far ahead, as well. IS your battery good? Could be air in the lines, too. Any other dieas?



Oh, and one last thing, welcome to the TDR.



Daniel

 

[bgilbert]

I'd 2nd the air in the lines, as they will cause hard starting. Check all fuel lines what you can back to the tank. They can get dry rotted at the tank and allow air to enter. Idle low?



Change all fluids, filters, I'd suggest staying away from synthetics as they can make things leak and they love wheel seals. Only use synthetic in transmission if you have a getrag 5speed. Change oil and fuel filters use fleetguard oil and fuel filters. DO NOT use fram oil filters.

Get guages, they are vital.

Daniel made a point a ways back about old carboned up injectors. When I removed my old inj's they were tired, dirty rusty and carboned up alot. After the new inj install, actually a high perf inj it smoothed out my idle and even with pump mods my mpg's are slightly higher but are remaining the same. Cant imagine what cleaned and recalibrated stockers would do for mpg's.

Your starter and alternator will appreciate a big battery group 31 1200+cca. Bill

 

[phillips5]

If the dilivery valves in the inj. pump are not seating any more than in the morning you have to fill all the inj. lines up before it will fire.

 

[dpuckett]

Originally posted by bgilbert

Cant imagine what cleaned and recalibrated stockers would do for mpg's.

First one I had it done in gave me 5 MPG. Went up to 19 MPG in a 93 W350 Xcab 5spd, 4. 10 flatbed with 150K. Aint been able to repeat the gain, but have levelled off around 18-19 city/ 20-22 hwy, no matter the gears, 4x2/4x4, or cab, after new tips. THink my biggest problem is the darn driver's right foot. :-laf



-DP

 

[DKasper]

Welcome, Matt!

Sounds like you are on the right track -- I always changed everything you mentioned, though I haven't got to my bearings on the newest one yet -- PB, I'm going to repent soon!



The only things I would add is to grab a friend and bleed your brakes out at each wheel until you get clear fluid. Brake fluid 11 years old tends to get really ugly!



Maybe siphon out your PS fluid as well and put new in too!



Happy Motoring!

Dave

 

[farmall]

I am a big advocate of this after running with a dead one and not knowing it for a long time. Check your lift pump. Crack your fuel filter or when you change it, pump the arm on the lift pump and see if you are getting fuel pushed up to your filter. If not at first bump your engine over and try again as it runs off the cam and might be on a lobe. If still not, then I would say it is dead. You can seem to get them from $45-$100 depending on location and source. When I replaced mine, I gained over a 100rpm at idle. And had a lot more power at WOT. They are not too hard to change and remember our VE pumps are cooled and lunricated by fuel. So the lift pump needs to be in good shape.



As the others have said before, cracked rubber lines can suck air and also let the fuel drain back when sitting for say a overnight period. Therfore making it hard to start in the morning. My truck was getting to the point where it would sit for 2 days and then start and die one time. The next time it would run though.



Just thought I would throw this into the mix.



Bill

 

[1stgen4evr]

Start and then die a couple of times

Welcome to TDR Matt. I have experienced the 'morning sickness' many times. It was worse till I change the lift pump. Try filling the tank completely and see what the next morning brings. This will lessen the tendency for the system to leak back and ingest air which is what is happening to you. I feel that I have a leak back somewhere in the system past the filter.



A new lift pump did not completely stop the problem. There are times still when my engine will die if it is left over night with a near empty tank. I am suspicious of contaminant in the fuel that causes a problem with the flow valves in the lift pump. I fuel at truck stops where ever I am all over the states. Sometimes I get dirty fuel.



Changing all the lub and filters will be a good step toward maintaining your truck. At 124k it is just getting slicked up good. I have seen the tensioner idler arm start to be skewed at that mileage. Just look closely to determine that it is in line and the belt is running true. If the belt is old and cracked, a new one is in order.



Check the rubber bushings on the ends of the front strut rods. If the previous owner ran a shaking tire for any length of time, the rubber bushing may be beat out. Same for the pot joint in the lower steering shaft just before the steering box. Look at threads on Borgesen steering shaft.



If you are manual look at the information on the Getrag. If you are automatic, you will be fine for now but will want to do some upgrades when you start to bombing. Automatics require a TPS. Look at the info on those. Automatic and towing, get a cooler for the transmission oil. When you buy a battery, get the bigest that will fit the box. Don't skimp there. If the truck was on a used sales lot and needed a battery, chances are good that the guy bought the cheapest thing he could find.



All the first gens are getting enough years on them that it would be good idea to inspect the flexible brake lines. Check the front pads. They are riveted on and may look as though there is a fair amount of pad left but they can shear off and leave the rivets digging into the rotors. Pads are MUCH cheaper than rotors. Depending on how the truck was used, it may need rear shoes.



With the years not miles, you may see a problem with the booster. The other guys have given some very good pointers. In fact, I think I will flush the brake fluid on my truck. I have 408k on my 93 D350 extended cab.



I did a thread some time back on problems past 100k miles. You can find it in the archives. The guys really gave a lot of good info there.



Welcome to TDR. There is plenty to learn.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

I'd rule out the delivery valves. Other things will give you grief long before the DV's...



Pb

 

[JLEONARD]

'morning sickness'

James... . good one:-laf

 

[MRuskow]

Thanks for all the replys!!!! you guys have set me in the right direction. Another question I have is where do I buy parts for this thing? can I just stroll down to Napa and pick up what I need, or does it need to be ordered from somewhere or what? There is a Cummins dealer 20 minutes from my house, would they stock parts for our trucks?



Also, where can I pick up a factory service manual from?

 

[1stgen4evr]

Parts

NAPA has some things.



If you are going to Cummins, take the ENGINE data from the plate at the front of the engine near the injection pump. Take all the numbers. They don't care what the engine is in. They want the Cummins id. Use a flashlight and read side ways.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[bgilbert]

Go to Cummins.com and find phone number to your local cummins distributor before driving 20 mins. Call and get price and availability of fuel and oil filters and BHAF fleetguard pn- ah19037. FSM can be bought online from www.techauthority.com. Bill

 

[MRuskow]

manuals on above mentioned post only go back to 1994

 

[Paychk]

Go to the web site and call the 1-800 #, I just bought a manual for my 89 Ramcharger.